Well....I am officially a hop farmer

[Andrea]

You want hops to go down below 20%
They will rot and decay to 20% moisture reading

And be careful with super powerful fans-- when the umbels dry the bract's open and you can start tossing lupulin rich yellow glands around. Ouch

Out here in the wilds of Colorado it is 100degrees and bone dry when we harvest so our ambient air dries everything out even us (now you know why we have so many breweries). We can leave large quantities on screens in the barn and just keep the dust off and voila they dry down to 8% or so

Not sure of your humidity and weather.........

 

[GVH_Dan]

I am going to plant some rhyzomes this year in my garden also 35' x 25' and let them grow up the 6' fence.

35 x 25 will give you space for a number of plants, but you may want to put something up so they can go higher than 6'. As they mature, most of the cones come in the top 1/3, which is usually 12 to 18 feet up. Just get as high as you can.

As far the drying process whats the best?

If just lowering the humidity is the key then a sani dry dehumidifier could work well. It is powerful enough to keep 3000 sq ft area down to 20% humidity easy. And it has a powerful fan which can be directed to blow directly over the cones with just a little ducting..

Lowering the humidity using dehumidification is great but the problem is the dehumidfier has to be huge.

Think of it this way, if I have 10 lbs of hops to dry I have to remove almost 8 lbs of water. That's 1 gallon over 8 to 10 hours. Now take that time 1,000 to 2,000 and that's what you have to remove per acre. Drying your 3,000 sq ft house from 80% RH to 50% RH should only be about 1 gallon every two to three days, unless you have a really leaky house or overly sweaty kids.

Good luck on your hop farm,
Just read an article in a Lodi Paper about Hop farms they are looking for people who want to go into the business. $10,000 to get in.

If that was a re-print of the article from the Monday Wisconsin State Journal, that was about our company. The $10k figure isn't a membership fee or anything, that is approximately what you will spend on poles, cable, rhizomes, irrigation hose, compost, etc. to set up your 1 acre field. That's assuming you don't have to dig a well or run electricity.

 

[GVH_Dan]

Not sure of your humidity and weather.........

If he's in Wisconsin, when it's hot it is humid. Guaranteed.

 

[Andrea]

Wisconsin
is that where overly sweaty children come from?

Colorado
where stinky you stepped in something and for the love of god take a shower children come from

 

[GVH_Dan]

Actually, based on my kids, the neighbor kids and my nephews...yes. We have overly sweaty children here.

 

[TrailerTrashBrewer]

35 x 25 will give you space for a number of plants, but you may want to put something up so they can go higher than 6'. As they mature, most of the cones come in the top 1/3, which is usually 12 to 18 feet up. Just get as high as you can.

Okay I will keep that in mind.

Lowering the humidity using dehumidification is great but the problem is the dehumidfier has to be huge.


Think of it this way, if I have 10 lbs of hops to dry I have to remove almost 8 lbs of water. That's 1 gallon over 8 to 10 hours. Now take that time 1,000 to 2,000 and that's what you have to remove per acre. Drying your 3,000 sq ft house from 80% RH to 50% RH should only be about 1 gallon every two to three days, unless you have a really leaky house or overly sweaty kids.

So you have 1,000 or 2,000 pounds of hops to dry in just a few days.
The dehumidifier that I have will take 100 pints of water out of the air in 24 hrs. That comes to a half a gallon an hour. Now that is considered in a 3000' sqft house with 8' wall heights.

It would take 16 days for this dehumidifier to take out that much water for your 2,000 lbs of cones. That is that it could take out 1,600 pds of water out of the air in 16 days. 4 of them could do it in 4 days.

Putting all the cones in a smaller area stacked on wire racks for the best air flow will dry them if you can keep the outside moisture from leaching in..

This is a small and compact machine that is powerful..

Great for a home but probably wouldn't work in your massive application.

If that was a re-print of the article from the Monday Wisconsin State Journal, that was about our company. The $10k figure isn't a membership fee or anything, that is approximately what you will spend on poles, cable, rhizomes, irrigation hose, compost, etc. to set up your 1 acre field. That's assuming you don't have to dig a well or run electricity.

I wondered if it may be you after I read your posts on this site..

 

[CoalBrew]

Is there some kind of formula for heat needed to overcome relative humidity?

I am going to need to dry quite a few pounds in the middle of a hot humid Kansas summer. Before all this discussion, I was planning on simply building a multi-layered screen shelve system along the middle of our Barn and letting the wind dry out the cones... maybe using a fan on the not-so windy days here (is there such a thing??)

However, again, it is humid as all get out and I may need more drying capabillity. As GVH Dan said, I need to either dehumidify or add heat.

Anyone???

 

[GVH_Dan]

I wish there was a formula, but its not quite that easy.

The first thing you need to look at is an isotherm for hops. This is a measure of equilibrium moisture content vs. air's relative humidity.
Here is one from J. Agric. Eng. Res, Henderson 1973

Notice that if you dried with 50% RH air, you could dry your hops down to about 7% moisture content. The problem is that it would take days to get to that point. In order to dry in a reasonable time, we need a relative humidity lower than that. The lower the RH, the higher the driving force to move moisture from the hop to the air.

To see what your RH is, you need to use a psychrometric chart like this:

Notice that on a 90F day (Temp on bottom) with 75F wet bulb (the lines that slant to the left), we have a relative humidity of around 60%.

To lower that RH, we can add heat without adding moisture. As you add heat, you move horizontally to the right thus dropping your relative humidity and wetbulb temperature...but no change in the humidity ratio. With a lower RH, we can pull more moisture out of the cone, but at the expense of perhaps being so warm that you evaporate essential oils or damage the acids.

One thing to note, if you look to the far right of the isotherm you notice we can get to 12% at almost 70% RH. This means simple air drying without heat or humidity can remove a lot of moisture.

For pelletizing, we need to get the RH down to 10% or less. But if you plan on freezing your hops and using them within the next year, 12% should be fine. So you usually don't need to use heat or dehumidification. Just lay them out on screens in the garage, maybe with a fan blowing across them. If it is really humid outside, bring them in the air conditioned house for the last day...assuming SWMBO agrees.

 

[CoalBrew]

I'm new so please fill me in on the SWMBO accronym. I've racked my brain but would like to know finally??? (I know spouse but exactly please????)

Back to business -NICE- I mean I really like the air dry should be sufficient, conclusion. At this stage, 12% should do fine as I am hoping to seal and freeze the whole cones as soon as they are dry... and deliver them to the buyers a few days after that (so they may store them). Ohh, and for scale I'm talking about 10-15 lbs of 1st year Cascades from 100 bines to be sold to a local brewer for "Randall-night" at the brewery and such.
My second year will prove to be a bit more challenging as I am expecting twice the output if not a bit more. I am excited to see just how well the air dry meathod works. I have a plan B - to use a dehumidifyer (Thanks TrailerTrashBrewer) and seal off a room in the barn to be used as a low-temp (relatively) oast which may end up being easier on the oils anyway. Which brings me to a few basic yet foundational questions:

Is there some sort of moisture content moniter that works well with hops?
Is there a good commercial vacume sealer that works good for 1 or 2 or 5 lb. packages?
Would I need to purge with argon or nitrogen or some other inert gas at this scale?

I feel as though I am pilaging info and will discontinue asking specific questions at this time!

P.S. where is OP??? where are you with your yard??? Got roots???

 

[GVH_Dan]

I'm new so please fill me in on the SWMBO accronym. I've racked my brain but would like to know finally??? (I know spouse but exactly please????)

There's whole threads dedicated to this, but its something like She/Spouse Who Must Be Obeyed.

 

[GVH_Dan]

Is there some sort of moisture content moniter that works well with hops?
Is there a good commercial vacume sealer that works good for 1 or 2 or 5 lb. packages?
Would I need to purge with argon or nitrogen or some other inert gas at this scale?

I feel as though I am pilaging info and will discontinue asking specific questions at this time!

P.S. where is OP??? where are you with your yard??? Got roots???

1. I've tried a couple, but without luck. They only seem to work once the hops are bailed up and thus dense enough to get a good reading. Otherwise the calibration is off. We are trying to build on to put in the oast while they are drying. Give us a year or so.

2.& 3. There's lots of decent sealers. For commercial quality, there should be a cover gas. It all depends on how long they are to be stored and how much abuse they receive before packaging.

 

[Hopfarmer]

Talk to me so you do not make some of the expensive mistakes I made



http://www.breworganic.com/Americancascadeorganicwholehops1oz.aspx

my site

coloradoorganichops.com

Will have Rhizomes for commercial sales

 

[CoalBrew]

Expensive mistakes???? What are the three things aspiring small yard hop farmers should know? (OP... you still there?)

 

[NTOLERANCE]

I am still here, been busy lately though.

Got some pics. I was only able to buy 100 rhizomes this year. Got them from a local company, Gorst Valley Hops. Dan from Gorst has posted on this thread.

Since I am a one man show so to speak, I have had to come up with some alternative methods. I am sure these methods will meet with some skepticism, but , without help, this is the way I have to do things.

I dont have a tractor or plow to use, but I did have acess to a bobcat and a post hole digger. I was able to secure a large amount of composted woodchips and manure. SO the plan: Drill holes where I want to plant, fill with organic compost and plant the rhizomes, errect trellis after planting.

I used a 24" post hole digging auger, and ran it down about 36". Here is a pic of the rows.

I am sure there are some who may not like my spacing, row width, ect, but I am keeping it compact for a reason: this isnt my land and I may need to move some day. I want everything close and compact.

Here is a pic of the hole:

Here is a pic of the filled and planted holes:

Still ironing out water distribution, the soaker hoses are temporary. I am going to go with drip irrigation. Putting it together in between planting/drilling. This isnt large scale so I can water them by hand, but its a tedious affair right now.

The more I plant the more I learn. I am sure I will modify my processes as time goes on.

As far as expenses go, I've got about $400 into rhizomes, compost and materials.

Trellis poles are industrial painted steel and were free. I have 8 of them, more than enough for the time being. My Dad has a good chunk of wooded land, and I spied numerous 30' + tall pine trees about 8" in diameter he says I can have for future poles. I've got plenty of twine, cable and rope for the trellis.

I've got 75 rhizomes in right now: 50 Cascade, and 25 Willamette, with 25 perle and 10 Centennial left to plant.

Gorst Valley hops had a great price on rhizomes if you bought them in batches of 100. Most of my communication with them was through email.....communication was a bit sporadic at times, but they came through and got me what I needed. All the rhizomes seem viable and in good health. I will buy from them next spring as well.

http://www.gorstvalleyhops.com/

 

[Retrofit]

I'm not sure what to say here. I use to own my own small business, nothing to do with hop growing. Over the years I met a lot of people that wanted to dive into small business, they basically had nothing but good intentions and some money to burn. Reading this thread, listening to the pros, listening the newb/pro, I just hear all the same things I heard from the various small business owners that didn't know what they were doing but jumped in blind.

I think any small business person that sits around the kitchen table and says "I think it will cost this me this much, and IF I get this many customers I'll be fine", they aren't making a business plan, they are just making themselves feel good. I think working with Charter Grower Program of Gorst Valley is going to be critical to your success IF you listen to what they say AND you develop a business plan. I think you need to spend more time listening to the pros, develop a better grasp of operating costs, and develop a clear plan for production.

I want you to succeed, but as a previous small business owner who has seen other small business owners try and fail, it just kills me to see you talk the same talk I've heard from these other people. Good luck man, I think you're going to need it.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

I still have a day job guys....all my eggs arent in this, I am doing this for me honestly. I plan to sell to home brewers.

MY hop yard isnt "work" for me and honestly I dont want it to be a full time job at this point and time.

I am sure Gorst's charter program is a great set up for someone interested in turning a profit, or as a full time grower.

I rent a small field, grow the hops I want and will market them if I choose to.

 

[Retrofit]

I have to say that makes me feel a lot better. My own business closed in this recession, but before I closed I had the opportunity to meet and work with a lot of small business owners in my community. The ones that I had the hardest time talking to were the ones that just thought if they put an "Open" sign on the door they would make it. It just killed me to see someone invest money into a business then watch it turn into a money pit. Heck, my own business (a video store) became a money pit in the end. Anyway, I feel a lot better knowing you have a day job. Your in Wisconsin right? I'm in Aurora IL. Maybe I could see your set up sometime? I have 4 on the side of my house and 8 in my backyard. Today I broke ground on what will be 8 more next year. By no means large scale production, but I'm a double digit suburban grower!

 

[chip82]

Any updates as of late?

 

[jgln]

Haven't read all the replies but it would be a real shame if it was successful but you were not able to renew your lease at some point. I guess I understand though if you can not afford to buy land. Could the owner just take over your business?

I have about 7 cleared acres I grow hay on and have thought about doing this but when I did not even get replies back from local breweries if they would be interested that made me think twice about it. That and we owe a lot on the house/property and our jobs are shaky. Maybe not the time to make an investment and take a chance.

 

[GVH_Dan]

Don't take non-response from a local brewer as a "no". You need to understand that many of these guys are getting phone calls weekly to monthly from people wondering if they want to buy hops. I've heard stories of guys showing up with pickle jars and grocery bags filled with wet hops at a brewer's door asking if they want to buy them. Of course they won't. If a farmer knocked on a restaurant's door with a steer on a lead, would the chef say, "Sure I'll buy your steer. Just tie him to the dumpster."

Do a little research and you will find that most brewers want dried, pelletized hops that have at least the alpha acid tested. Some want more. Some will take whole leaf. some will even take wet. But educate yourself on the various ways they are processed, what testing must be done and how they should be packaged and then go back. You may find different results.

 

[jgln]

Don't take non-response from a local brewer as a "no". You need to understand that many of these guys are getting phone calls weekly to monthly from people wondering if they want to buy hops. I've heard stories of guys showing up with pickle jars and grocery bags filled with wet hops at a brewer's door asking if they want to buy them. Of course they won't. If a farmer knocked on a restaurant's door with a steer on a lead, would the chef say, "Sure I'll buy your steer. Just tie him to the dumpster."

Do a little research and you will find that most brewers want dried, pelletized hops that have at least the alpha acid tested. Some want more. Some will take whole leaf. some will even take wet. But educate yourself on the various ways they are processed, what testing must be done and how they should be packaged and then go back. You may find different results.

To be honest it was just fishing and not really trying hard to contact them. Best way I assume would be to make a visit in person.

 

[GVH_Dan]

That may work, but they still may not give you the time of day. Its not that brewers are a$$holes or anything, they are just really busy people like anyone that is trying to grow a business. They don't have the time to talk to every Tom, Dick and Harry that wants to grow hops, grow barley, make glassware, print T-shirts, etc. They've got their trusted purchasing channels and you almost have to present most of them with a packaged product before you can get their attention.

I guess what I'm saying is if you are really interested in this, you have to dive in. Do some research, develop your business plan, figure out how you want or can market the final product, grow some hops, process them, package them and present it to your local brewer. If you walk in with that, you will get their attention.