Water chemistry math

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Br3w4u

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Sorry for the dumb question but I can't find this anywhere. When adding minerals to RO water do you calculate your final ppm by your post boil amount of water or by the total amount of water used? Wouldn't your mineral amount increase as you boil off some water?
 
Yes, your minerals will concentrate by approx 15 percent depending on how much water you boil off. Your target water profiles are based on the water into your brew system. Your water profile plays a big part on how it affects the mash.
 
Calcium ions aid in achieving proper lautering run off. This valuable assistance occurs pre-boil, so is independent of the concentrating effect of boiling. Thereby, shorting calcium in the mash with the hope of gaining it back later and thereby achieving a set target goal for mineralization post the boil may lead to run-off problems during lautering. Also, calcium and magnesium assist in lowering mash pH, so shorting them during the mash may lead to mashing at a higher than anticipated pH.
 
I have never heard/read anything about Calcium have anything to do with lautering. Where did you read/see that?
 
I calculate my salts by total batch size, typically five gallons, and add that concentration directly to the strike water in the mash. For me, the first priority is getting the right mash pH.
Brewer's Friend advanced is typically what I use to calculate mineral and water adjustments. It's flexible enough to adjust calculations for the mash or total amount of brew water used. You can select a water profile based on style, treat the water for that, and even add your grain data to derive a wort estimate. I'm still learning by plugging "test batches" in that may never be brewed, but it allows me to see how things can affect certain results.
 
I think you may be placing too much emphasis on calcium's effects in lautering. There are beers made with very soft water (pilsen comes to mind) that have no lautering issues.
 
I calculate my salts by total batch size, typically five gallons, and add that concentration directly to the strike water in the mash. For me, the first priority is getting the right mash pH.
Brewer's Friend advanced is typically what I use to calculate mineral and water adjustments. It's flexible enough to adjust calculations for the mash or total amount of brew water used. You can select a water profile based on style, treat the water for that, and even add your grain data to derive a wort estimate. I'm still learning by plugging "test batches" in that may never be brewed, but it allows me to see how things can affect certain results.

Thank you. I will try that out. I have tried brun water a few times and just can't figure it out. I usually just do all of my calculations on paper while referencing books.
 
Most of us base our calculations on the water used that is we decide, for example, that we want a certain concentration of calcium in our mash water and a certain (could very well be the same) concentration for our sparge water, make up water, dilution water and so on. Of course mineral concentrations change during the various processes. In mashing some calcium and magnesium precipitate while at the same time additional calcium and magnesium are released from the malt into the beer. In the kettle, additional calcium and magnesium precipitate while at the same time evaporation tends to concentrate these.
 
Thank you. I will try that out. I have tried brun water a few times and just can't figure it out. I usually just do all of my calculations on paper while referencing books.

The Brewer's Friend advanced calculator is fairly involved with a lot of menus. I tend to concentrate on the water volume, source water, water target, salt additions, and the detailed grist info listing your individual malts.
It's a well-written calculator done with the assistance of some knowledgeable people. It's helped me understand "why" you just can't throw certain malt combinations in water and expect it to become beer.

One of my first failures as a noob was a thin, acrid, and burnt-tasting Dunkel brewed with adjuncts and unseasoned tap water. Sometimes failing is the best motivation to learn.
 
Thank you. I will try that out. I have tried brun water a few times and just can't figure it out. I usually just do all of my calculations on paper while referencing books.

A good calculator is much more time efficient. If you find the right one that fits your needs, that's awesome. I typically have my laptop nearby on brew days to use as a guide and use bookmarks for quick reference.
Measurements will go to paper, then into the calculator when time permits to figure out where some of the variables might've happened. It's a great way to put numbers to your process and figure out what went right or wrong along the way.
 
I haven't had any problems getting my PH right and my beers usually turn out fine. If they don't it is just because of some weird experiment that I was trying. I use 100% RO water because my tap water is nasty and RO is easy. I just worry about if I am really getting the right water profiles when I create them.
 
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