Wanting to switch to electric

[Carolina_Matt]

Would like to see a picture of your system.

It's just the 120v Digiboil with the neoprene jacket, a wilser bag and a 50' stainless steel wort chiller. I did a 4.5g batch so that I could ferment in a keg.

It would take longer with more water, and in the winter when the ambient temperature is lower, but I don't know that it would add 1-2 hours.

 

[BigChas]

Simple enough, does it hold mash temp fairly well ?

 

[Bobby_M]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I brewed a 4.5 gallon BIAB batch today, as well as Wednesday, and I was finished in 4 hours (including cleanup). This is with 120v (1500W).

My starting water is 6 gallons, so it would add time to heat up the extra 1.5-2 gallons for a 6 gallon batch, but not sure why it would take upwards of 6 hours. And if you get a system with a timer so that the water can be at strike temperature when you wake up, that time would essentially be 'free'.

7 gallons from 60-155 on 1500 watts is 68 minutes.
60 minute mash (or more depending on temps)
40 minute ramp time to boil
60 minute boil (or more with pilsner malts)

68+60+40+60 3 hours and 48 minutes with no goofs or messing around. I guess you run a pretty tight schedule.

 

[Carolina_Matt]

7 gallons from 60-155 on 1500 watts is 68 minutes.
60 minute mash (or more depending on temps)
40 minute ramp time to boil
60 minute boil (or more with pilsner malts)

68+60+40+60 3 hours and 48 minutes with no goofs or messing around. I guess you run a pretty tight schedule.

Yeah, it would take me longer if I started with 7 gallons and 60 degree water. In the two batches I did this week with 6 gallons of starting water (for a 4.5 gallon batch), my water was about 86 degrees out of the tap. It'll be closer to 60 in the winter though.

I've been getting 2 degrees per minute, so my schedule is:
35 minutes to strike temperature (from ~86 to ~156)
60 minute mash
35 minutes to boil (from ~142 to ~212)
60 minute boil

So 3 hours, 10 minutes. Plus time for adding water to the kettle when I start, holding the bag over the kettle (after the mash) before turning on the heating element, etc. Then I immediately turn on my immersion chiller after the boil, and it gets about as low as it can go in about 10 minutes. Figure 10 minutes to drain it into the fermenting keg, and I'm somewhere in the 3 1/2 hour range, plus cleaning the kettle and chiller.

One thing that's not included is getting it down to pitching temperature, which would be the same no matter which heating element I use. With water this warm in the summer, my chiller only gets it to the low 90's and then I put it in my chest freezer (after draining it into the fermenter) for ~3 hours to get it down to pitching temperature.

It'll definitely take longer in the winter, especially since I'll be brewing in a 40-50 degree garage instead of an 80 degree garage.

 

[Carolina_Matt]

Simple enough, does it hold mash temp fairly well ?

My only basis of comparison is my old gas setup, and I would typically lose about 4 degrees over the course of an hour-long mash. That's by covering the kettle with a moving blanket.

On my first batch, I had on the neoprene jacket and I put a towel over the lid. I stirred after 15 minutes. There was a 2 degree drop at that point, and I lost another 4 degrees over the rest of the mash. So I lost 6 degrees overall.

On my second batch, I had on the neoprene jacket, put a towel over the lid, and put the moving blanket over it. I stirred after 15 minutes and lost 1 degree. I lost 3 degrees over the rest of the mash, so 4 degrees overall. With the moving blanket, it was on par with the old kettle.

FYI, I unplugged the device during the mash. I have no insight into how it would hold mesh temps if I used a false bottom and kept the heating element on.

 

[brew703]

I currently brew w/propane and it almost takes an hour to get to strike temp and about 45 to get to boil from mash temps. I don't have my burner cranked all the way so getting to mash temps probably could be reduced if i crank up the heat. Total brew day, incl getting to pitching temp is 4-4.25 hrs. I have to use a ice water with a pond pump to get in the 60's.
Since I switched to my CUSS chiller, it has greatly reduced the time it takes.

Curious to know as many of the electric systems have different wattage elements. Clawhammer has a 1650 watt and High Gravity uses a 2250 watt. Would there be much of a difference in time to get to mash temps then to boil with an extra 650 watts?

 

[Baglorious]

I currently brew w/propane and it almost takes an hour to get to strike temp and about 45 to get to boil from mash temps. I don't have my burner cranked all the way so getting to mash temps probably could be reduced if i crank up the heat. Total brew day, incl getting to pitching temp is 4-4.25 hrs. I have to use a ice water with a pond pump to get in the 60's.
Since I switched to my CUSS chiller, it has greatly reduced the time it takes.

Curious to know as many of the electric systems have different wattage elements. Clawhammer has a 1650 watt and High Gravity uses a 2250 watt. Would there be much of a difference in time to get to mash temps then to boil with an extra 650 watts?

Sending a PM... I will be selling a High Gravity 120v system that is, in my opinion, the best system you can buy if you don't want to mess with installing 240. Primary reason (as you already noticed) is the 2250w Blichmann Boilcoil... which equates to reasonable heat/biol times. I go from 61 deg water to 160 strike water in about 50 mins with approx 6.5 gallons.

I was going to list it locally (soon), but haven't gotten around to it. I'd like to find someone who will appreciate the (significant) man hours I've put into tweaking it. Internal etchings, customized edge diptube, triclover fitting on lid for steam condenser, etc.

PM inbound to see if it floats your boat.

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm used to using a 15 gallon kettle for my batches. I went with 15 because I didn't want to have to ever worry about boilovers from hops or being constrained on the size of my grain bill if I wanted a high ABV beer. I'm sure I could make 10.5 gallons work but I like being able to walk away during the boil and not have to worry.

you are also used to gas too right? With electric theres no worries of boil overs nor is there the need for soo much dead space in the kettle...

also with electric theres no functional need for a heavy duty pot like with propane or gas thought thats totally a personal choice as well.

And finally... bags work better for any type of recirculating system vs a basket.. in fact bags work just as well for biab too again personal choice.