Want EVERYTHING outside the keezer

[SEndorf]

Right now everything is inside the keezer with an inaccurate 2 gauge regulator and two 3 port manifolds. I'm tired of opening it up to make adjustments, and ready to spend a few bucks.

Here's my plan....

Single gauge primary regulator off the tank (sitting next to keezer):
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/single/tf_t741_single_gauge_regulator.shtml

6 gauge taprite mounted on the wall behind keezer:
https://www.kegoutlet.com/taprite-secondary-regulator-low-pressure-6-body.html

6 Bulkhead shanks for the keezer collar:
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2262

Anyone else do this? It's a lot of 1/4" swivel nuts I need to make sure are tight. Any downside?

 

[day_trippr]

Kinda/sorta did the same, though I have a six port manifold mounted to the inside of the lid.
CO2 and nitro tanks are outside, both connect to keezer through panel versions of those same 1/4" MFL-MFL bulkheads drilled through the back edge of the lid, with cornelius style gas posts attached via post adapters (chicompany). So my lines simply snap on and off using standard QDs.

With six kegs on tap and all lines using 1/4" flare fittings it's a really good thing that flare fittings are damned near idiot proof...

Cheers!

 

[jmcquesten]

Here's what I did.

View attachment 1477782025271.jpg

 

[SEndorf]

jmcquesten, that look nice.
What do you use the open line off the first regulator for?

Just ordered the parts. I'taint cheap!
I'll post a pic when I get this together.

 

[jmcquesten]

jmcquesten, that look nice.
What do you use the open line off the first regulator for?

Just ordered the parts. I'taint cheap!
I'll post a pic when I get this together.

The open line is just an extra line that I use for either purging kegs, pressure transfers, burst carbonating, or for the beer gun. I put a swivel connection on the end of the line that either connects to a gas ball-lock disconnect or to the purge connection on the beer gun. It's very handy having an auxiliary co2 line. As you can see, I just put a tee on one of the 4 regulators to get me the extra co2 line. The 4 regulators go to 4 kegs inside the fridge and it's pretty common for me to actually use different pressures on all 4. It might be overkill for some people, but I love having independent control over my 4 taps.

 

[mongoose33]

I keep my tank and primary regulator outside the keezer, and use a bulkhead shank to get the gas from outside to inside the keezer. There, I have a 4-valve distribution manifold.

If I were to do it over again, I'd do it the same way. I don't run different pressures so I don't need multiple secondary gauges. I'd ask if you really need six different gauges or are you just anticipating?

I have a ferm chamber/refrigerator I use to cold crash, as a ferm chamber, and so on. I also use it to force carb kegs of cold beer. I have a separate tank and gauge for that use, so I don't need to use multiple secondary gauges to do that in the keezer.

BTW, I really like the bulkhead shank. Much more elegant than just running the tubing through the collar of the keezer, and if I ever need to move it, easy to disconnect.

 

[mongoose33]

One more thought in case you haven't gotten this far: My keezer collar is a 2x6 plus a 1x8 for a total thickness of 2.25". The nuts and washers add 1/2" to the size you need, and you need to have enough of the threaded ends exposed to attach the swivel nuts to the shank.

I'm using the 4" shank and there's not a lot of room to spare on either end.

I have 1" of styrofoam insulation on the inside of my collar, and I had to cut a hole in it to allow for me to use a wrench to tighten the swivel nuts. If I were to do it over again, I'd attach the swivel nut on the inside first, tighten it down, and then feed it through the collar so the other swivel nut could be attached. Even so, you'll still need to access the interior nut holding the bulkhead shank in place.

 

[ericbw]

Is there a reason you need 6 regulators? Are the manifolds working the way you want? That's a lot of extra dough if you're setting them all the same. I have two regulators outside the fridge, and two holes drilled in the side where the lines go in. It connects to a 4-way manifold for most beers, and the other line goes to a keg for soda (30 psi).

If you do a high carbed wheat beer and a low carbed stout or ESB, then I can see 2 regs. But how many different pressures do you need?

 

[skraeling]

Though if you put it on the back of the keezer wont you have to pull it out to make adjustments as well?

 

[SEndorf]

The open line is just an extra line that I use for either purging kegs, pressure transfers, burst carbonating, or for the beer gun. I put a swivel connection on the end of the line that either connects to a gas ball-lock disconnect or to the purge connection on the beer gun. It's very handy having an auxiliary co2 line. As you can see, I just put a tee on one of the 4 regulators to get me the extra co2 line. The 4 regulators go to 4 kegs inside the fridge and it's pretty common for me to actually use different pressures on all 4. It might be overkill for some people, but I love having independent control over my 4 taps.

Thanks for sharing that. A great idea which I will use for gassing PET bottles with a gas cap, or using the beer gun.

 

[SEndorf]

One more thought in case you haven't gotten this far: My keezer collar is a 2x6 plus a 1x8 for a total thickness of 2.25". The nuts and washers add 1/2" to the size you need, and you need to have enough of the threaded ends exposed to attach the swivel nuts to the shank.

I'm using the 4" shank and there's not a lot of room to spare on either end.

I have 1" of styrofoam insulation on the inside of my collar, and I had to cut a hole in it to allow for me to use a wrench to tighten the swivel nuts. If I were to do it over again, I'd attach the swivel nut on the inside first, tighten it down, and then feed it through the collar so the other swivel nut could be attached. Even so, you'll still need to access the interior nut holding the bulkhead shank in place.

My shanks arrived today. I ordered the 2 7/8" long.
My collar (in the back) is a simple 2X4 so these should work. If I need a bit more length I'll countersink the opening for the washers.

 

[SEndorf]

Is there a reason you need 6 regulators? Are the manifolds working the way you want? That's a lot of extra dough if you're setting them all the same. I have two regulators outside the fridge, and two holes drilled in the side where the lines go in. It connects to a 4-way manifold for most beers, and the other line goes to a keg for soda (30 psi).

If you do a high carbed wheat beer and a low carbed stout or ESB, then I can see 2 regs. But how many different pressures do you need?

Do I NEED 6 regulators? Probably not. But I've been wanting to do this project for a while now to get everything out of the keezer. I could have gone with a 2 or 3 regulator taprite and kept the manifolds, but what the heck.... The additional cost of upgrading to a 6 body is roughly 3 rounds of golf...... I gave up golf 'cause I suck.
See how my demented logic works?

 

[SEndorf]

Though if you put it on the back of the keezer wont you have to pull it out to make adjustments as well?

My plan is to mount the regulator body to the garage wall in back of the keezer without much slack from the regulator to the outside collar shank.

I'll use mounting hardware that will allow me to lift the regulator body off the wall and set on top of the keezer when I need to slide the keezer out from the wall for cleaning, maintenance, etc.

 

[day_trippr]

Do I NEED 6 regulators? Probably not. But I've been wanting to do this project for a while now to get everything out of the keezer. I could have gone with a 2 or 3 regulator taprite and kept the manifolds, but what the heck.... The additional cost of upgrading to a 6 body is roughly 3 rounds of golf...... I gave up golf 'cause I suck.
See how my demented logic works?

My brother from a 'nuther mutha! Go for it!

Cheers!

 

[SEndorf]

Finally got it done! Love those Taprites!.