Very worried about Immersion Chiller

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zbiggestdaddy

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I bought copper from a HD going out of business but I found out it is 3/8" OD not ID will this still work from a immersion chiller I have 50' of it and hope it will work please help me out with advise. I really want to get into all grain.
 
Should work. You should make sure that your hose attachment fits snuggly using some tube outside insulation. I would use all 50 feet if possible
 
It has been so long since I made mine. Mine may be 3/8 OD. I wish I had another 25 feet to help with the chill. I had to put insualtion on the ends of my tubing to get it to work well with the hose. I can turn my hose on full power though and it does not leake.
 
Soft copper tubing is always specified by OD. Whenever you see anyone talking about a 3/8" immersion chiller, it's 3/8" OD, so you've got the same thing many others do.

Most 3/8" IC's are 25', usually when you go to 50' you go with 1/2" tubing for the higher flow rate. I'd be tempted to fab yours up as two separate, concentric coils, and then feed them with a Y-splitter so you get higher flow and keep more cool water in all parts of the chiller. But that may be more trouble than it's worth.

BTW, I'm jealous - I ALMOST got in on the same deal from a closing home depot, but by the time I got there, the 3/8"x50' rolls were already sold out. Too bad, because 30% off would have made them cheaper than the best deals online.
 
It has been so long since I made mine. Mine may be 3/8 OD. I wish I had another 25 feet to help with the chill. I had to put insualtion on the ends of my tubing to get it to work well with the hose. I can turn my hose on full power though and it does not leake.


Hey Hoosierbrewer, could you elaborate on that point about the insulation? I have a SS chiller from Midwest, and I love it, but the fact that i can only crack the hose tap open kinda sucks. It takes 15 - 20 minutes to get the wort down to 100, and another 10 or 15 minutes to get it to the mid 70s. I think if I could up the flow a bit I could cut that time down significantly. I made sure the hose clamps are tight, even added a second on the inlet, but still have difficulty containing the pressure. Sounds like you fixed that problem, I would love to know how. :mug:
 
If you want leak free connections, it's best to either solder the garden hose fittings on directly or use a compression fitting, then either a hose barb or garden hose fittings. You can also put a flare at the end of the copper if you're clamping tubing on directly, but the heat will always soften the tubing and encourage leaks.

If you're looking to use elbows like I did in my video, it's really not necessary for 3/8" tubing. It's able to make relatively small radius bends without the expensive fittings. The elbows you'd use though would be 1/4". Tube fittings are rated for the inside diameter of the tubing.
 
You could try taking the tubing off, smearing some silicone on there, and then putting it back on and tightening the hose clamps. That should definitely make it waterproof...
 
Hey Hoosierbrewer, could you elaborate on that point about the insulation? I have a SS chiller from Midwest, and I love it, but the fact that i can only crack the hose tap open kinda sucks. It takes 15 - 20 minutes to get the wort down to 100, and another 10 or 15 minutes to get it to the mid 70s. I think if I could up the flow a bit I could cut that time down significantly. I made sure the hose clamps are tight, even added a second on the inlet, but still have difficulty containing the pressure. Sounds like you fixed that problem, I would love to know how. :mug:

I just took a closer look at mine. I use automotive tubing that you would use for fluids in your engine compartment. It is black and is SAE30. I know the tube can handle hot liquids and it happend to fit snuggly over the 3/8 inch tubing and fits pretty well into the garden hose. I have this on both ends with a hose clamp tightening it all together. I have been able to turn my faucet on a lot higher now. I plan to change me output end so that I can hook a hose and run the sprinkler. I no longer have well water, so I am paying for it and might as well use it.
 
If you want leak free connections, it's best to either solder the garden hose fittings on directly or use a compression fitting, then either a hose barb or garden hose fittings. You can also put a flare at the end of the copper if you're clamping tubing on directly, but the heat will always soften the tubing and encourage leaks.

If you're looking to use elbows like I did in my video, it's really not necessary for 3/8" tubing. It's able to make relatively small radius bends without the expensive fittings. The elbows you'd use though would be 1/4". Tube fittings are rated for the inside diameter of the tubing.

Anyone know if you can solder stainless? Mine is one of the stainless ones from Midwest. I tried a compression fitting from Lowes, and using all the torque I could muster, it still leaked. I think I might have to try the silicone route, or use some beefier tubing.
 
Just an FYI, overtightening a compression fitting can cause leaks....
 
I use the automtove grade rubber (heat) and it fits perfectly. I can turn the hose on full blast with no leaks. It will be much easier than trying to solder or weld to stainless or copper.
 
I believe that overtightening can cause problems, however, I think it had more to do with the diameter of the SS tubing. Even with "all the torque I could muster" I could still slide the tubing right off of the end of the chiller.
 
compression fittings and plumbers tape ftw.... do not overtighten. and as said before, you can get just about any gage to fit your faucet fittings, regardless of if the tubing is 3/8 or 1/2 :)

it's really pretty straight forward. enjoy!!!
 
Thanks everyone I am going to make two 25' chillers and run them opposite one starting on the top and the other from the bottom up. I got a tee and some tubing. Hope it will all work.
 
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