Yes that's bigger, the diameter of the bottom of the Hop Stopper is given as 9.75" however mine is only 9.5" but that's apples to oranges type of comparison. The comparison needs to be done on some equal basis, either use the same amount of material to make your shape and the Hopstopper or make your shape and the hopstopper the same surface area. They aren't equal surface areas and I am pretty sure you are using more material than used in the hopstopper. Read on if interested.
I have one of these stainless mesh canisters and they are excellent for dry hopping in fermentor or in serving keg. You can load it up with whole hops or like 2-3 oz of pellet hops. Easy to clean and reuse. I just add a coffee filter on top before screwing lid on as the bigger holes in lid let some tiny particles out that clog my out ball lock poppet. Fits through corny top no problem. I use a stainless mesh hop spider in the brew pot latched to side of pot that allows easy early, late, and whirlpool hop additions even with the immersion wort chiller present near the end. It’s all about using the hops selectively for their early bittering, late flavor, and dry hop aroma and keeping brewing a fun hobby and less of a cleaning chore.
I actually use this very thing in my brew kettle. I just put the hops in, and toss it in. I fish it out before chilling.
Nope... My understanding is the Hopstopper uses 300 mesh, and mine is 420 mesh. I was worried it might plug, but it was experimental and I didn't want it to be round. The square was intentional since it was going in a keggle with a convex bottom, I didn't want it to rest all the way around the edges and restrict underside flow. I was actually a bit surprised and very pleased that it worked so well, plus; it's very easy to lift by the corners and remove most of the cat barf in one go when cleaning time comes.
I didn’t see this mentioned yet, and I’m sure you already know since you’ve been at this for a while, but you are adding your flavoring hops later in the boil (10-15 minutes)?
In your process or packaging, is it possible oxidation is affecting the hop flavor?
Flame out hops, depending on variety, are usually considered aroma hops. They are added in the last 5 minutes or after. You are only getting bittering properties from your 60 minute addition. Try adding some between 20 and 10 minutes and you’ll get the flavor… this is also style specific too.
I was in the same boat. I bought a weldless fitting and a piece of 3/8 copper tubing years ago and it sat on my workbench because I was shy about drilling into the kettle.
Sorry I didn't see this before today.
I had always used hop bags for DH. In doing so I never thought there was enough flavor/aroma for whatever style I was brewing. I used large enough bags so the expanding hops didn't pack tightly, and if I remembered, I swirled the fermenter lightly a few times during the 3-day dry hopping.I only use hop bags when dry hopping; makes it easier to transfer the beer without clogging and if I'm feeling really frugal I can use the dry hops for bittering in another brew.
Yeah you can do that, its been discussed here on HBT:
Your calculator is broken (again). Or your proofreader quit on you, by lack of beer.
Yeah, it can be risky out here. You seem to be holding your own though, and quite well. Please, come in more often.
Yeah, it can be risky out here. You seem to be holding your own though, and quite well. Please, come in more often.
You got to it before I could edit!
How did it turn out, hoppinesswise?
No problem, just checking in.
Would you say that this time you got more flavor out of the hops compared to using muslin hop bags? The downside was, it seems, that the strainer you used let too much hop matter through. And from personal experience, fine strainers clog really easily. What's a beer-maker to do? - use more bags with more hops for more hop flavor?well i kegged my brew, one keg is clogged, the other pours slow....soooo, i guess the strainer didn't work good enough..
still has hop flavor though!
