• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

using hop bags

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
just ordered this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1553603672...SKGMlyrjz2/YkiuleobNUVXgUt+U|tkp:BFBMrLfGz8Jh
i'll just pour the wort through it into the fermenter, probably will help aereate also.... GOOD BYE hop bags, maybe? i'll report back!
What type of fermenter are you using? Just buy a hop spiders that fits in the mouth of it, then pour through it. Arbor Fabrication might also be able to make you a custom one. You can also do what I do and use Hop Torpedos in your boil kettle. They stay completely submerged and bounce around with the boil.
 
Maybe I should have just appealed to the DIY nature we share;
Once I had a kettle with a diptube, I'd read about peoples issues with the original hopstopper slowing down, so my solution was a piece of 304 SS 420-mesh off ebay or amazon or something, and a small spool of 304 SS 'thread'... got out my needle for leather and canvas and sewed this:
View attachment 811737

Greater surface area and contains a couple SS 'handles' from a discount deep-fryer basket to keep it from collapsing when the break material and hops weigh it down.... does a great job.
How big is it?
 
It started at 30cm x 60cm, once finished it's approx 11" square, and because of the bent SS wire inside of it, very little ever lays flat against the convex bottom of my keggle, maximizing flow. With recirc/whirlpooling, very little trub lays on inch or two of the corners, and very little plugs up the underside. I do get some smaller particles come through, but it makes for a very thin layer that's relatively easily removed when yeast harvesting and never enough to clog a pump.
 
Yeah I'd just buy a hop spider then and hand it on the lip of the mouth of your fermenter, then just pour your wort through it. Easy peasy.
https://www.amazon.com/Spider-Micro...argid=pla-441942092871&psc=1&region_id=373786


you got me thinking trying to find a 10" hop spider...maybe something like this in the kettle?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1155258142...tENCJTN3WF3A5yYXOhEujWi6jnigzf5hoCO5MQAvD_BwE

edit: maybe i could just stitch up some ss mesh the size of the kettle? and that's a serious thought not sarcastic...kinda like a AIO basket.....
 
Since we're all sharing, I use one of these. Just pour through it from kettle to fermenter. It does clog, but usually not until I have put pretty close to a full five gallon batch through. Then a little stirring/scraping takes care of the rest.
 
Since we're all sharing, I use one of these. Just pour through it from kettle to fermenter. It does clog, but usually not until I have put pretty close to a full five gallon batch through. Then a little stirring/scraping takes care of the rest.


that's the hope.....
 
I have that same strainer and then also the smaller set below. I forget which one (middle one I think) fits pretty perfectly in my fermenter mouth. The small one I like it works great for dipping into the fermenter and straining out dry hop pellets floating around the top.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUQF9O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok I'm new - how do I make that a pretty Amazon link?

I literally looked up the amazon item, copied the URL, and pasted while I was typing (for those across the pond, "whilst I was typing"), and it formatted it into a little boxy doo dad thingy without my doing anything.
 
Not for that price!



so just buy a Grainfather huh? for the same price? lol


wait everything is coming together....

well i can't find them...

but the electric bike one, the bike grain mill, and the electric car one! :mug:
 
I literally looked up the amazon item, copied the URL, and pasted while I was typing (for those across the pond, "whilst I was typing"), and it formatted it into a little boxy doo dad thingy without my doing anything.


hit and miss... works the same for me....
 
It started at 30cm x 60cm, once finished it's approx 11" square, and because of the bent SS wire inside of it, very little ever lays flat against the convex bottom of my keggle, maximizing flow. With recirc/whirlpooling, very little trub lays on inch or two of the corners, and very little plugs up the underside. I do get some smaller particles come through, but it makes for a very thin layer that's relatively easily removed when yeast harvesting and never enough to clog a pump.
Yes that's bigger, the diameter of the bottom of the Hop Stopper is given as 9.75" however mine is only 9.5" but that's apples to oranges type of comparison. The comparison needs to be done on some equal basis, either use the same amount of material to make your shape and the Hopstopper or make your shape and the hopstopper the same surface area. They aren't equal surface areas and I am pretty sure you are using more material than used in the hopstopper. Read on if interested.

As far as surface area you have 2x 121=242 square inches, which is the easier calculation. I made the mistake of thinking I needed to calculate some of the Hop Stopper surfaces separately but then I realized it's just a cone with the top inverted down. It's got a surface area of 163 sq inches as the height is 2" and the depression touches the bottom so the cone height is 4". I'm pretty sure you used more material as your original sheet is 11.8"x 23.6". A cone can be made from a Pac-man shape. I'm guessing but I think they don't cut out the mouth from the circle and instead cut a slit along a radius in the circle. Then draw the circle that forms the depression, and bend that part down. Next form a frustrum of the cone and overlap. This makes the cone top inverted. The base is just a circle attached to the cone. I thought at first that maybe they used they are using a 10" square for both. However the surface are of the cone without the base is 162 - π(4.75)²=92.1 sq in. A circle with that area has a radius of 5.4 and a diameter of 10.8" so they might use a square of 11" per side for the top. That would leave enough to attach the two pieces. Minimum necessary is one 11" and one 10" square or two 11" squares. You have 2 squares essentially that are 11.8" on a side or 2x139.24 sq in=278 sq in. They are using at a minimum 100 + 121 =221 square inches and perhaps 121 + 121 =242 sq in. so you are using about 15% more material compared to the 242 sq in value and a little over 25% more material compare to the 221 sq in value. If you were provide the same size sheet of 11" square, your sides would be about 10.25" and your area would be 105.1 sq in. for the top vs the HS top of 92.1. If you were to use the same amount of material as the lowest estimated amount, 221 sq inches, you'd have two squares 110.5 sq in with sides 10.51" and taking off 3/4" the sides would by 9.75" with top area of only 95 sq in vs 92.1 and 190 total sq in vs 163. Seems intuitive though that you would get more area out of square sheets then the HS circular shape.

Now to be totally fair, both shapes should have the same surface area of 163 square inches. Then maybe it could be determined which shape is better. Your squares top and bottom would then need to be just over 81 sq in each and that's just about 9". So a fair surface area comparison would need that 9" square for your top and bottom.

And I don't even know if the mesh sizes are the same either.
 
For dry hopping, oak additions or other additions, get one of these. You’ll need something like a fermonster with the wider mouth opening though.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-St...argid=pla-460292359114&psc=1&region_id=674469
I have one of these stainless mesh canisters and they are excellent for dry hopping in fermentor or in serving keg. You can load it up with whole hops or like 2-3 oz of pellet hops. Easy to clean and reuse. I just add a coffee filter on top before screwing lid on as the bigger holes in lid let some tiny particles out that clog my out ball lock poppet. Fits through corny top no problem. I use a stainless mesh hop spider in the brew pot latched to side of pot that allows easy early, late, and whirlpool hop additions even with the immersion wort chiller present near the end. It’s all about using the hops selectively for their early bittering, late flavor, and dry hop aroma and keeping brewing a fun hobby and less of a cleaning chore.
 
And I don't even know if the mesh sizes are the same either.
Nope... My understanding is the Hopstopper uses 300 mesh, and mine is 420 mesh. I was worried it might plug, but it was experimental and I didn't want it to be round. The square was intentional since it was going in a keggle with a convex bottom, I didn't want it to rest all the way around the edges and restrict underside flow. I was actually a bit surprised and very pleased that it worked so well, plus; it's very easy to lift by the corners and remove most of the cat barf in one go when cleaning time comes. :mug:
 
i've been using bags with pellets for years, but my hop flavor has sucked for years too... lol
I didn’t see this mentioned yet, and I’m sure you already know since you’ve been at this for a while, but you are adding your flavoring hops later in the boil (10-15 minutes)?
I’ve used hop bags since I started and don’t notice any lack of flavor.
 
but you are adding your flavoring hops later in the boil (10-15 minutes)?


usually i just use 1.5oz of high AA ~15%, something like bravo or chinook, at 60 minutes.


so you recommend adding a flame out, dry hop routine?
 
usually i just use 1.5oz of high AA ~15%, something like bravo or chinook, at 60 minutes.


so you recommend adding a flame out, dry hop routine?
Flame out hops, depending on variety, are usually considered aroma hops. They are added in the last 5 minutes or after. You are only getting bittering properties from your 60 minute addition. Try adding some between 20 and 10 minutes and you’ll get the flavor… this is also style specific too.
 
this is also style specific too.


i don't have style, but i could swear i used to taste hops even with just 60 min additions.. but that was back in like 2006-7...


i apreciate all the help on this issue though so far though....i got some malt made, waiting on the strainer....what would be the consensus on commando hops 4oz's at 60, 6 at 30, and like another 6 at 170f?


(i'm not trying to win any awards here, just think it'd be a fun experiment)

edit: those would be numbers for kinda old hops for the record, probably got some more flavor oriented ones for the late additions....
 
Last edited:
what would be the consensus on commando hops 4oz's at 60, 6 at 30, and like another 6 at 170f?
10 gallons I assume? What varieties?

i'm not trying to win any awards here, just think it'd be a fun experiment)
DD1A9DA0-CF68-4A5D-8B05-2AD8D06BA170.gif
 
and i just looked through some 'used' hops i got from someone here...i got some comet from 2020 vacuum sealed for the 60 addition, and some santiam for the 30m, and some fuggels for the 170-180f addition, have to keep an eye, because water boils at 200f here....

and i think it'll be a basic batch, just some malt kilned around 170-180...and 1/2 pound of crystal 60, maybe an ounce of chocolate for a "what's that factor"
 
me and my kettle have been together since 2002, it makes me uncomfortable thinking of drilling a hole in it.....
I was in the same boat. I bought a weldless fitting and a piece of 3/8 copper tubing years ago and it sat on my workbench because I was shy about drilling into the kettle.

I finally bit the bullet. I bent the 3/8 tubing into a 90 degree elbow, planning on using an Anvil bazooka screen.

I determined where the hole needed to be so the screen laid flat on the bottom when assembled to the copper tubing.

I used a center punch so I could precisely make a ding in the pot where the hole should be. then I drilled a starter hole, then a step drill (fairly cheap at harbor freight) to make the right size hole.

it worked fine, no leaks. I bought a 1/2" NPT stainless nipple and 1/2" stainless ball valve for the outside of the pot.

now the issue is that after several tries, the bazooka is headed for the trash. it plugs too quickly, and when I move it around using a sanitized ladle to dislodge the tub/hops, they get through the screen.

I like the idea of the "return bend" on the fitting that was in the link. I will buy another piece of 3/8 tubing and design the same shape.
 
how long would it take for that to be an issue? i don't close transfer or anything?
Sorry I didn't see this before today.

So many variables makes it hard to say how long it takes for the effects of oxidation to affect hop character. You could judge in your process by tasting a sample of the the beer when you start the transfer to the keg. If it already is not hoppy enough, probably oxidation is not the cause.
 
You could judge in your process by tasting a sample of the the beer when you start the transfer to the keg. If it already is not hoppy enough, probably oxidation is not the cause.


honestly, that's why i posted this in beginner's....i actually didn't have that thought....


and an update, i have my SS colander & plan on brewing sometime soon....
 
Back
Top