Unibrau - Question about Power Cord

[Ylbc]

Hey everyone,



A couple years ago I bought a 220v system that has a 220v element. On the plug it has 3 blades and the plug type is L6-30. It states the unit is rated for 30A.

I purchased their standard ETC controller which is rated for 220v.

The issue I'm running into is I lost the power cord that goes from the element to the controller. I went into an electrical store, and they said that the two plugs are incompatible and essentially don't want to sell me the setup. They said the LR6-30 is rated for too high an amperage and voltage than the standard 3 blade plug that's on the back of the controller. And that if they are truly pushing the electric that they say, either it shouldn't work (meaning the outlet is only pushing 120 and then wont power the element [or will power it at that reduced rate]), or the 3 blade plug should melt (because its not rated for 220v and 30 Amps.

I reached out to Brau Supply to see how this works. I know they sell a replacement cord on their site and I had it working.

Element Power Cord - - Bräu Supply (brausupply.com)

I guess I am a little concerned about am I going to do something. This is the second electrical professional that has commented at how this plug setup is inappropriate. The first one at the time I didn’t understand what they were saying but in hindsight I put two and two together.

Any advice? Im waiting to see what Brau Supply says just hoping to get some sanity checks.

Also, I am correct in assuming I should have the controller plugged into a GFCI plug right?

 

[user 298779]

Your best bet IMHO - get confirmation from BrauSupply. Their ETC 240 controller is only rated for 13amps, but also 240V. It’s odd to see this mated to a standard 3-prong 120V outlet on back of controller but I guess they had their reasons (like all the 2500W elements may have 6-30 connections standard). The element is pulling under 11 amps so controller wouldn’t be damaged per design.

You made a good call in questioning the plug. Lots of expertise on this forum so I suspect you’ll have an electrician or electrical engineer provide feedback.

Always ensure you have GFCI protection.

Cheers

KBW.

 

[doug293cz]

What is the wattage rating of your element, and at what voltage? Looking at the UniBrau site you linked, it seems the element may be 2500W @ 240V. If plugged into a 220V supply the element will only draw 2500 * (220 / 240)^2 = 2100W, and it will draw 2100 / 220 = 9.55A. Even at 240V it would only draw 2500 / 240 = 10.42A. Either way, a 15A outlet is adequate for the load.

The reason for the LR6-30 is because the element has an integral LP6-30 plug. It doesn't need that current rating, but that is a common plug to integrate to heating elements. Maybe if you explain this to the electrical shop, they will build the cord for you.

Brew on

 

[user 298779]

What is the wattage rating of your element, and at what voltage? Looking at the UniBrau site you linked, it seems the element may be 2500W @ 240V. If plugged into a 220V supply the element will only draw 2500 * (220 / 240)^2 = 2100W, and it will draw 2100 / 220 = 9.55A. Even at 240V it would only draw 2500 / 240 = 10.42A. Either way, a 15A outlet is adequate for the load.

The reason for the LR6-30 is because the element has an integral LP6-30 plug. It doesn't need that current rating, but that is a common plug to integrate to heating elements. Maybe if you explain this to the electrical shop, they will build the cord for you.

Brew on

Thanks Doug, good info. I’ve made several 240V “adapters” & jumpers but don’t like telling someone else how do do it. I don‘t like that controllers use a 15-5R receptacle in conjunction with an L6-30 configuration….NEMA standards not withstanding. Can lead to a dangerous situation for someone to make a mistake. But yeah I‘d say you’re spot on; that’s how the elements are configured even if they draw less than 15A. Oh well…

Drink on! Cheers

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks Doug, good info. I’ve made several 240V “adapters” & jumpers but don’t like telling someone else how do do it. I don‘t like that controllers use a 15-5R receptacle in conjunction with an L6-30 configuration….NEMA standards not withstanding. Can lead to a dangerous situation for someone to make a mistake. But yeah I‘d say you’re spot on; that’s how the elements are configured even if they draw less than 15A. Oh well…

Drink on! Cheers

The risk is much less for a cord with a 15A plug and 30A receptacle, than for a 30A plug and 15A receptacle. If the controller is properly fused internally, then there is no chance to get more than 15A out of the outlet.

Brew on

 

[RufusBrewer]

Using information from the Unibrau link in the OP, the cord is to be used on two elements:

120 volt, 600 watt = 5.00 amps & 24.00 ohms
120 volt, 1,650 watt = 13.75 amps & 8.73 ohms

Either one is OK to connect to a 15 amp circuit.

Seems to me, where you could get into trouble, somebody sees an element that has a 240 VAC, 30 amp plug and assumes that it is OK to apply a 240 VAC, 30 Amp power source. In this example, with the Unibrau things could go bad real quick.

Mixing and power sources and destinations are a legitimate concern. This explains why the people at the electrical supply shop are reluctant to sell an improper combination connectors and cable.

My advice, learn how to terminate power cable and connectors.

 

[user 298779]

Using information from the Unibrau link in the OP, the cord is to be used on two elements:

120 volt, 600 watt = 5.00 amps & 24.00 ohms
120 volt, 1,650 watt = 13.75 amps & 8.73 ohms

Either one is OK to connect to a 15 amp circuit.

Seems to me, where you could get into trouble, somebody sees an element that has a 240 VAC, 30 amp plug and assumes that it is OK to apply a 240 VAC, 30 Amp power source. In this example, with the Unibrau things could go bad real quick.

Mixing and power sources and destinations are a legitimate concern. This explains why the people at the electrical supply shop are reluctant to sell an improper combination connectors and cable.

My advice, learn how to terminate power cable and connectors.

Very well said RufusBrewer- I couldn’t agree more.

Their 240V element is 2500W, therefore only draws 10.4 amps so in this case the controller won’t be overloaded. I think Brian from Short Circuited Brewers has some good things to say on his YouTube channel about the caution required when wiring pigtails and plugs that aren’t matched (I.e. same NEMA configuration).

Cheers

 

[RufusBrewer]

Very well said RufusBrewer- I couldn’t agree more.

Their 240V element is 2500W, therefore only draws 10.4 amps so in this case the controller won’t be overloaded. I think Brian from Short Circuited Brewers has some good things to say on his YouTube channel about the caution required when wiring pigtails and plugs that aren’t matched (I.e. same NEMA configuration).

Cheers

240 VAC @ 2,500 watts = 10.42 amps & 23.0 ohms
Same element on 120 VAC:
120 VAC @ 23.0 ohms = 5.22 amps & 626 watts

When you are talking a resistive load like a heating element, you can use good old Ohm's law to calculate variables and mix power and loads.. Other loads, you best served to match power sources and destinations.

 

[Ylbc]

Very well said RufusBrewer- I couldn’t agree more.

Their 240V element is 2500W, therefore only draws 10.4 amps so in this case the controller won’t be overloaded. I think Brian from Short Circuited Brewers has some good things to say on his YouTube channel about the caution required when wiring pigtails and plugs that aren’t matched (I.e. same NEMA configuration).

Cheers

So does this mean its not super straightforward to just wire this cable myself? Because NEMA doesnt match?

 

[user 298779]

So does this mean its not super straightforward to just wire this cable myself? Because NEMA doesnt match?

Not at all. It’s pretty easy if you’ve worked with and basic electrical stuff or are mechanically inclined. I do all of ours, and different configurations.

Cheers

KBW.

 

[Ylbc]

Not at all. It’s pretty easy if you’ve worked with and basic electrical stuff or are mechanically inclined. I do all of ours, and different configurations.

Cheers

KBW.

Okay, ive wired basic electrical items like new in home smoke detectors, and overhead lighting as well as electrical outlets. So as long as its, wire hot to hot, ground to ground and so on I think I can do that.

 

[doug293cz]

So does this mean its not super straightforward to just wire this cable myself? Because NEMA doesnt match?

With 240V, you have two hots and a ground. As long as you go ground to ground, you can't go wrong.

With 120V, you have hot, neutral, and ground, and they all have to go to the correct blade/slot.

Brew on

 

[RufusBrewer]

To go from a standard 120 VAC plug to an L6-30 socket, you have to get the ground connection right on each end. Easy to do.

The other two connections blades, (hot & neutral) you can connect any combination, and it will work without any difference.

 

[Ylbc]

To go from a standard 120 VAC plug to an L6-30 socket, you have to get the ground connection right on each end. Easy to do.

The other two connections blades, (hot & neutral) you can connect any combination, and it will work without any difference.

Do you have anything I can reference when doing this? And remember the plug is going to be 220v, not 120v.

 

[user 298779]

Sure do!



Cheers

 

[user 298779]

Sure do!



Cheers

Sorry, thought you had a Foundry. Same applies though.

 

[Reneauj62]

Hey everyone,



A couple years ago I bought a 220v system that has a 220v element. On the plug it has 3 blades and the plug type is L6-30. It states the unit is rated for 30A.

View attachment 743935

I purchased their standard ETC controller which is rated for 220v.

The issue I'm running into is I lost the power cord that goes from the element to the controller. I went into an electrical store, and they said that the two plugs are incompatible and essentially don't want to sell me the setup. They said the LR6-30 is rated for too high an amperage and voltage than the standard 3 blade plug that's on the back of the controller. And that if they are truly pushing the electric that they say, either it shouldn't work (meaning the outlet is only pushing 120 and then wont power the element [or will power it at that reduced rate]), or the 3 blade plug should melt (because its not rated for 220v and 30 Amps.

I reached out to Brau Supply to see how this works. I know they sell a replacement cord on their site and I had it working.

Element Power Cord - - Bräu Supply (brausupply.com)

I guess I am a little concerned about am I going to do something. This is the second electrical professional that has commented at how this plug setup is inappropriate. The first one at the time I didn’t understand what they were saying but in hindsight I put two and two together.

Any advice? Im waiting to see what Brau Supply says just hoping to get some sanity checks.

Also, I am correct in assuming I should have the controller plugged into a GFCI plug right?

Electrical VS Electronics.....Recently, my DPSR110 failed and I decided to change to the DSPR320. I had a friend that works for the DOD as an Aerospace Ground Equipment Maintenance Manager and he helped me replace the module. I had questioned the 240 to 110 reduction and he said that it the way it is designed and it works the way it is designed. So, evidently there is something in the Controller that makes this happen (diodes, capacitors, or something else). Don't listen to electricians, most don't know about electronics...

 

[RufusBrewer]

Do you have anything I can reference when doing this? And remember the plug is going to be 220v, not 120v.

on the regular house plug, the round pin (as opposed to the parallel blades) is the ground. On the L6 connector, should come with a drawing somewhere that identifies which blade is ground.

Or look it up on the internet, to verify the pins on the L6 connector.

 

[doug293cz]

"G" is ground.

"G" is ground, "W" is neutral if 120V or hot if 240V, and unmarked is hot.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Electrical VS Electronics.....Recently, my DPSR110 failed and I decided to change to the DSPR320. I had a friend that works for the DOD as an Aerospace Ground Equipment Maintenance Manager and he helped me replace the module. I had questioned the 240 to 110 reduction and he said that it the way it is designed and it works the way it is designed. So, evidently there is something in the Controller that makes this happen (diodes, capacitors, or something else). Don't listen to electricians, most don't know about electronics...

Most modern electronic devices of medium or higher complexity, that are AC powered, use switching power supplies to create the DC voltage(s) required internally for the operation of the device. Switching power supplies can accept a wide range of input voltages and still operate correctly. That's why devices like the EZBoil, and PIDs, can accept either 120VAC or 240VAC input power.

Simple devices, like indicator lamps, relay & contactor coils, etc., only work correctly at the specified input voltage (with a +/- tolerance.)

So, while an EZBoil doesn't care about input voltage, a control panel might work only on the voltage it was designed to use. Although it is possible to design control panels that will work on either 120V or 240V when using the USA's split phase power.

Brew on