• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It's been a long day but I want to at least post some thoughts and maybe a slew of pictures. I'm exhausted and on my 3rd homebrew clone of Maine Beer Company's A Tiny Beautiful Ale. So here goes.

First snag in the day was when I looked in the kettle and found it stained. Last I left it was with Starsan so this confused me. I had to break out Barkeepers friend to re-clean what was supposed to be a clean kettle. I also had to throw out all the containers that had that batch of Starsan and reclean them. This would hurt me later. It was at this time that I realized working with a LARGE kettle is bothersome. Even more so when that kettle is tethered with 2 cables. Something to get used to.

Next I decide to adjust my grain mill from .049 to .039 crush. No big deal just another task. I consulted Beersmith and Priceless BIAB and decide that 8.3 gallons of mash water is needed. I measure out 2 gallons of distilled then add my tap water.

Something odd happened here. For some reason I thought my sight glass was off. I even took a picture and planned to post about it. But looking back, the picture seems correct. But this doesn't explain the results at the end. But this stops me from measuring volumes since I falsely assumed the sight glass was wrong and I had no other means to measure.

My next mistake is heating the water. I heat to 167 instead of 157. When I do mash I'm way over. I start to stir a bunch and also start the whirlpool. I set the temp for 154 and try to burn off heat by stirring. But I figure I have to just push forward.

Next is the biggest mistake. I think the recirc is going well so I start to tackle re-cleaning my carboys that had that batch of Starsan that stained the kettle. During this time I hear hissing and notice a ton of steam. Yes, my element is burning. The grain bed was now restricting the flow and the element was dry under the bed. I shut down everything (including my timer) and wait it out. The element finally calms down and the level is back to normal. Now I figure out I need to have the flow much slower. This might not be as big an issue with a 10g batch.

So I know for sure that I've burned the wort but the good news is the element is still working. I read some posts on the topic and I consider myself lucky in that regard. I turn the recirc down to a very small amount and let it go. I start a new timer using my phone based on an estimate. I play with the flow a while until I find the right amount. But I notice the wort is just going straight down. Eventually I add a hose to help with the recirc. This creates a slight whirlpool visible on the top. I finally leave it alone but I never stray from the kettle and I keep a close eye on the sight glass.

Mash ends and I bump the temp to 168. I realize this is kind of silly since mashing out is not needed. So I just hoist the grains up and go to manual mode and dial in 90% on the heat. A minor error here. The element quickly heats to boil before the mash drains. Turns out 60% is enough. But this is a factor of doing a 5g batch with an element that can handle 10g batches. So I will need to adjust going forward.

I wrestle a bit with hosting the mash. But Tim (the owner) suggest using the lid. I finally manage to get the basket up and the lid under it. I then disconnect and bring both over to my driveway so the basket can drain. I adjust the power to the element to get a decent boil. Add my hops and start the timer. One odd thing I notice is the boil is centered on the element. I have two patches of hop oils to either side of the element. I debated trying to whirlpool but I quickly decide not to. Not a big deal just odd.

Everything goes well from here for a while. At boil end I start whirlpool. It took me a while to figure out how to get the hoses connected without spilling. This is a new dangerous aspect. These hoses can have very hot wort so you have to be careful.

Now I'm into new territory of using a plate chiller. It takes me a while to plan out how to move the tubes. I turn the pump off and wait for the wort to settle. I'm not sure what to think here. You can't see what is going on so it's hard to say when everything is "settled". It might be about 10 minutes before I can't SEE anything moving but who knows what is really going on.

By the time I get the courage to start the pump into the chiller the wort is down to 177. I take a thermapen to test the wort as it goes into the carboy. Considering how my day is going I expect that the wort will melt my Better Bottle carboy. But I'm surprised to see the wort coming out of the chiller at 68. I used a prechiller inside a cooler of ice because I live in Texas but I probably didn't need it. It hasn't been hot here yet. But still the results are amazing. I guess these plate chillers do work. Now I just have to watch the level as the wort drains. I'm trying to avoid the last disaster of killing my pump.

I'm still not sure what went wrong but as the drain is near the end I'm not near 5g in the fermenter. I end up with about 4.75. To make matters worse the fermenter appears to have tons of trub. One good bit of news is that I can see serious trub in the tubing before my plate chiller so I stopped at the exact right time. But I can see all kinds of break or something in the fermenter so it isn't all good news. And to top it all off my gravity readings are low.

After that is clean up. This is where I realize how heavy a 20g pot is. I also realize how hard it is to clean a burnt element. It will take some getting used to so I can figure out how best to do this. It's also very awkward having a kettle with "holes" in it. I don't like to dump toxic cleaners into my driveway or lawn so lugging the kettle to the sink while it has Barkeepers Friend in it was messy. And while the plate chiller was great, I ended up using more water to chill. I saved much of it so I can could clean later but it was a new experience.

Whew. Now I'm too tired to post the pictures but at least I have some to share later. I won't make the same mistake on the element again. But I'm really worried about the volumes being so far off. It could be any number of things. One thing I might try different is to put the grains into the basket first then add that to the water. I think that might cut down on all the dust. For the volume issue? I first might look at upping the evaporation rate from 1.5 to 1.75. And I might look to bump the trub loss calculation up from .5 gallons. I haven't decided if I want to do 5 gallons again or jump to 10 gallons.

Just writing this novel has worn me out. And the blinking ads for Stout Tanks and Kettles is beginning to bother me. Time for sleep before I really begin to ramble. Hopefully I will at least wake to fermentation although I don't expect the taste to be very good. Cheers everyone.

:tank:
 
Sorry for your tough brew day. Unsure what you are meaning with the StarSan stain?? 8.3 gallons total water is all you needed? I have nearly 8 gallons preboil (6 into the fermentor) and I only have a 10 gallon kettle. Your 20 should have more boil off. Sounds like you have a lot of dialing in and maybe someone has a BeerSmith Equipment Profile they could share to help everyone out in the future.

Also, Barkeepers Friend is not toxic.
 
Here are a few pictures from the day. The empty kettle is after I cleaned but you can barely see a slight stain on the bottom. Still not sure what I was thinking on the sight glass. It is close to what I planned. Why I thought that water amount was OK is beyond stupid. I was to busy thinking other things I guess. Also a quick picture of the grains. Next time I will get a close up. Can't really see the crush in this picture.

View attachment 1460383588667.jpg

View attachment 1460383661507.jpg

View attachment 1460383782520.jpg
 
First of all, cheer up. after all of that it will probably be your best beer to date. It's just how these darned things go.

Second, it was your first go round on a totally new, complex system. There are sure to be kinks. None of your missteps were anything new for a lot of folks here- I know I've made many (including dry firing my element).

Volumes you'll get a feel for- just start with a bit more strike water.

As for cleaning, I think BKF is biodegradable. When my system comes in, I am definitely going to look into a CIP ball. You can get tri-clamp versions. It may not get 100% clean, but it can take care of most of the major stuff.

Good luck- keep on with the updates!
 
Here you can see changing the tubes to prepare for post boil, and the hoisting of the mash basket. If you let it hang just inside the kettle the dripping goes right in and it won't sway. I also included a quick picture of the boiling and one to show cleaning the basket. I had hoped to dump right into a garbage bag but the kitchen bags were to narrow so I had to scoop out out.

View attachment 1460385294957.jpg

View attachment 1460385316016.jpg

View attachment 1460385340153.jpg

View attachment 1460385354536.jpg
 
Dang that 5gal looks measly in that big pot.

Guess you don't have to worry about boilovers!
Yeah it does. Almost makes me wonder if a 15 gallon kettle is more suited for me. 10 gallon batches are rare, but I was hoping to have the ability to do both without the need for sparging with another kettle.
 
I ordered 20 gallon and mostly do 5 gallon batches. [emoji51]Hope it won't be to difficult or I may just have to do 10 gallons and start giving a lot more away.
 
Yeah it does. Almost makes me wonder if a 15 gallon kettle is more suited for me. 10 gallon batches are rare, but I was hoping to have the ability to do both without the need for sparging with another kettle.

If it helps, this was a 12.25 lb grain bill. I think it depends on what you brew. I bet I can't do a 10g huge beer without a sparge. Also a 5g small beer might be tough.
 
Here are some post boil pictures. I ran the water out from the chill plate into coolers and kettles to save for cleaning. As the wort went into there carboy I could see there break material. Eventually I could see my poor element that took forever to clean. When it really got low I could see trub in the tubing and I quickly killed the pump just in time.

I wonder if the whirlpool tube is angled incorrectly. I'm not sure if it should point up, down, or horizontal.

I also wonder if I could get a custom filter to drop in around the pickup tube. It would have to be shaped like a goalie net or something.

View attachment 1460389186004.jpg

View attachment 1460389264647.jpg

View attachment 1460389323274.jpg

View attachment 1460389386856.jpg
 
Thanks for the recap. Sounds like a learning experience for sure! Did you use the spreadsheet Tim provides to calculate your water? If so do you think doing 5 vs 10 gallon batch threw it off?

I used to have keggels if you've worked with those was your brew kettle heavier than that?
 
Thanks for the recap. Sounds like a learning experience for sure! Did you use the spreadsheet Tim provides to calculate your water? If so do you think doing 5 vs 10 gallon batch threw it off?

I used to have keggels if you've worked with those was your brew kettle heavier than that?

Spreadsheet? No. I didn't know about that, or I forgot about it. Do you have a link? I used the BrewBoss profile from BeerSmith as a template. Then I also used Priceless BIAB calculator. Today I looked at some previous BeerSmith profiles and I think I need to adjust my evaporation rate and/or my post boil trub amount. The last time I brewed the recipe I had a total water volume of 8.8 instead of the 8.3 from this session. Had I just added that .5g it probably would have worked out.

I never worked with keggles so I can't really say about the comparison. It probably isn't really that bad but compared so a run of the mill 10g Polarware it is a big jump. My guess is this is equal to those who base their builds on something like the Kal electric brewery design which IIR has 15g Blichmann kettles.
 
Looks like 9 gallons give or take would have gotten you close. You will get it all dialed in within a couple brew sessions.
 
Spreadsheet? No. I didn't know about that, or I forgot about it. Do you have a link? I used the BrewBoss profile from BeerSmith as a template. Then I also used Priceless BIAB calculator. Today I looked at some previous BeerSmith profiles and I think I need to adjust my evaporation rate and/or my post boil trub amount. The last time I brewed the recipe I had a total water volume of 8.8 instead of the 8.3 from this session. Had I just added that .5g it probably would have worked out.

I never worked with keggles so I can't really say about the comparison. It probably isn't really that bad but compared so a run of the mill 10g Polarware it is a big jump. My guess is this is equal to those who base their builds on something like the Kal electric brewery design which IIR has 15g Blichmann kettles.

Tim sent me the spreadsheet, I am new to forums but would be happy to email it to you if you'd like. basically you just plug in a couple of fields and it tells you how much water to use.

Thanks for the answers on the other questions, my old system that I had before I got out of brewing for a while was a Sabco Brewmagic, those keggles were not only heavy but awkward because of how tall the stand was. You spent a good deal of the day on a step ladder and I am 6' 1"!
 
Pretzleb,

Sorry to hear about your maiden voyage frustrations. I bought the 20 gal single vessel system and got it delivered right at Christmas. For various reasons, I wasn't able to brew on it until recently. I have 2 brews under my belt so far and things couldn't have gone slicker for me. Let me chime in on some things that I have found.

I had a devil of a time getting my PID dialed in. Operational parameters given through autotune were worthless. Those values gave me unacceptable overshoots and undershoots and poor convergence on SV. I had to manually tune it and got a lot of help from Tim. I bet I ran close to 30 wet tests trying to dial things in (not fun). The PID on my rig is a 2362 and I bet yours is too although it may be rebranded with CBS logo. I ended up using P = 0.2, I = 350, d = 20, and SouF = 0.7. If you aren't getting the temp control you want, try those values. They work pretty good for me.

My final volumes have been off a bit as well. That just takes some familiarity with the system to figure it out. On my second brew, I weighed the empty mesh basket, mesh basket with dry grain, and basket with wet grain after draining. I just used a luggage scale, but that's close enough for me. I calculate absorbed / entrapped wort at 0.06 gal/lb. Boil off rate is dependent upon how robust your boil is and your guess is as good as mine. I expect to be closer to intended final volumes using this absorption rate on my next brew.

Clean up is a breeze for me. I brew in a dedicated basement "Beer Kitchen" with a floor drain and utility sink right at hand so that makes things really easy. I went to Walmart and bought a cheap utility tub with handles that my mesh basket fits inside of. After draining the grains, I just lower the mesh basket into the tub and set it aside for disposal later. I flush mesh basket and hop basket with a garden hose. When I'm finished brewing, I flush lines, pump, and CFC until they run clear. I wipe out brew kettle and re-assemble everything as if I'm going to brew again. Then I re-circulate hot Oxi Clean through the system for an hour or so. Set the PID to about 135 to keep things hot and run it like a washing machine. Last brew day was 4 hours from power on to Oxi Clean recirc. Major improvement over my old 3 vessel, 3 tier Orange Depot Cooler and Keggle rig.

On my first brew, I noticed a lot of fine material had escaped the mesh basket. That was my fault. I stirred the mash frequently during the mash and mash out. I just couldn't help myself. I like to stir the mash. On my second brew, I only stirred the mash a couple of times and left it alone during mash out. I think that gave the mash a chance to kind of set up a filter bed and capture most of those fines. From here on out, I wont stir during mash out.

All in all, I'm really happy with the system. My efficiencies are right in line with what I had been getting on my old system, so no need to tweak recipes. The support that I've gotten from Tim has been outstanding. I just wish that I had gone to single vessel electric brewing a long time ago.

Good luck on your next brew!
 
Another thing that I have noticed is that my strike temp has been too high. I use an online calculator to figure strike temp with water to grain ratio as a variable. Strike temp comes out to be about 8 or 9 degrees above mash temp (I think). I don't see much of a rapid drop from strike temp to mash temp when I mash in. I'm thinking that next time I'll use a strike temp of about 4 degrees above mash temp and see how that works.
 
On my second brew, I weighed the empty mesh basket, mesh basket with dry grain, and basket with wet grain after draining. I just used a luggage scale, but that's close enough for me. I calculate absorbed / entrapped wort at 0.06 gal/lb.

Quick q on this. (Someone chime in here if this is crazy talk.)

If you do a mass balance around an individual grain, the grain takes on some water, but it also gives up some starch to the surrounding water outside the grain. Did you account for the fact that this starch was extracted from your grain, making it weigh less? My understanding is that your actual absorption rate would be higher than you calculated if not.
 
Yeah I'm going to have to figure something out when I clean my 40 gallon CO brewpot. Thinking of using my electric hoist to lift it and tippy dump it over the sink.

Finally, a few quick pictures showing clean up. The hard part was scrubbing the kettle over on the lawn. Man that thing is heavy. Too big to clean by the utility sink.
 
Quick q on this. (Someone chime in here if this is crazy talk.)

If you do a mass balance around an individual grain, the grain takes on some water, but it also gives up some starch to the surrounding water outside the grain. Did you account for the fact that this starch was extracted from your grain, making it weigh less? My understanding is that your actual absorption rate would be higher than you calculated if not.

I calculate the weight of absorbed / entrapped wort. I then convert that weight to a volume. If you use the unit weight of water (8.33 lb/gal) or figure a unit weight of wort at the specific gravity of your runnings, I would think that the difference in calculations to be minor to insignificant - especially since my sight glass is probably only accurate to +/- .25 gallons or so. At any rate, .06 gal / lb should get me closer than using something like .1 gal / lb.
 
I calculate the weight of absorbed / entrapped wort. I then convert that weight to a volume. If you use the unit weight of water (8.33 lb/gal) or figure a unit weight of wort at the specific gravity of your runnings, I would think that the difference in calculations to be minor to insignificant - especially since my sight glass is probably only accurate to +/- .25 gallons or so. At any rate, .06 gal / lb should get me closer than using something like .1 gal / lb.

Agreed, the degree of accuracy is limited by the weakest chain in the link, in most of our cases it's the sight glass. But for with the luggage scale and a measurement of the specific gravity, you shouldn't need the sight glass, right?

Also agreed that using a value that's close to your actual absorption is going to get you in the ballpark.

Just now I found an interesting read on this topic from Ray Daniels book Designing Great Beers. According to him, "it is safe to assume that the postmash grain mass is about 40% of the weight of the grain you added."

I've never done these calcs until now, but curiosity has gotten the better of me today. Below are a couple of screen shots. I did the math, I believe as you did, weighing the grain before and after and calculating a volume absorbed based on that. Then I did the calc again taking into account the weight lost by the grain. The answer was surprising.

At the end of the day, the goal is to use a number that works with our individual processes and systems. So if 0.06 gal/lb gets you there, that's fantastic. I just wanted to go through the exercise, mostly to prove to myself what the impacts are of the two calculation methods.

Ray Daniels quote first, then the calcs below.

DesigningGreatBeers - Grain Water Absorption.PNG


Grain Absorption Calc Comparison.PNG
 
I will check tonight but I believe the spreadsheet account for grain absorption at a rate that cobrew has accounted for.

I have had too many issues with site glasses in the past so I just use a Home Depot yard stick that I've pre marked based on measuring water in the kettle. Probably not spot on but seems to work decently.
 
I had a devil of a time getting my PID dialed in. Operational parameters given through autotune were worthless. Those values gave me unacceptable overshoots and undershoots and poor convergence on SV. I had to manually tune it and got a lot of help from Tim. I bet I ran close to 30 wet tests trying to dial things in (not fun). The PID on my rig is a 2362 and I bet yours is too although it may be rebranded with CBS logo. I ended up using P = 0.2, I = 350, d = 20, and SouF = 0.7. If you aren't getting the temp control you want, try those values. They work pretty good for me.

This is one option I'm seriously considering, however this has me concerned. I want to buy something that works out of the box. One of the main features I want is to be able to accurately maintain mash temperatures. Sounds like this system might have an issue doing that. Has anyone else experienced this problem with the system?
 
I had hoped to brew again today but one drawback to electric is it might be a problem if a storm knocks out your power.

I had not thought to look at the absorption rate. I will try to do that today.

I did an auto tune on the PID and it seemed to be much better. I have a feeling it will still need adjusting with grain and the recirculation running. But it should be improved.

I'm also going to skip the pre chiller since I think the ground water is cool enough. Still not 100% sure on the plate chiller but I have to keep trying.

I so happy to hear others sharing their experiences with this setup. I might start another thread on the topic. I have so many questions from some posts in this thread.

Now if the lightning will just go away.
 
I will check tonight but I believe the spreadsheet account for grain absorption at a rate that cobrew has accounted for.

I have had too many issues with site glasses in the past so I just use a Home Depot yard stick that I've pre marked based on measuring water in the kettle. Probably not spot on but seems to work decently.

I had a similar thought so I tried to find a large stainless steel ruler. It turns out they aren't easy to find without cork on the back and without ink for numbers.
 
This is one option I'm seriously considering, however this has me concerned. I want to buy something that works out of the box. One of the main features I want is to be able to accurately maintain mash temperatures. Sounds like this system might have an issue doing that. Has anyone else experienced this problem with the system?

This is my first experience with a PID controller but I can't imagine they are very different. My guess is any system that uses a pump and a controller is going to require some getting used to and adjustment. I suspect most people leave the gory details out when they talk about the adjustments. But maybe someone knows about a system that requires no work at all?
 
That whole system looks like a PITA.

Shrug. I'm not sure how to make an electric 10g capacity BIAB recirc system that would be easier. Unless I took away features and then it amounts to trade offs. To each his own I guess.
 
Back
Top