Too much head from first keg

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ForkJohn

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Hi everyone!
Im using a force carbonated keg for the first time. It's a 5 litre Vevor mini keg, using C02 capsules for carbonation. I made a bohemian pilsner, though the beer turned out great with no oxygenation issues, every time I poured from the keg, I got A LOT of head and the beer was barely carbonated.
I force carbonated on 15psi for 16 days and served at 10psi. it only had a little fizz with roughly 85% of the pint glass being foam.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Recipe below for hose interested.
preboil - 8 litres
60 min mash
-Bohemian pilsner - 1kg
-Flaked maize - 200g
-Light crisp crystal - 14g
70 min boil
30 mins, hallertau Herrsbrucker - 16g
15 mins, hallertau Herrsbrucker - 5g
5 mins, hallertau Herrsbrucker - 5g
Postboil - 4.5 litres
Mangrove jack M84 bohemian lager dry 10g
pitch at 18-19⁰c
lager for 30 days
 
I force carbonated on 15psi for 16 days and served at 10psi. it only had a little fizz with roughly 85% of the pint glass being foam.

15 PSI at what temperature? Also, what's the inside diameter and length of your beer line?
 
15 PSI at 4C would reach over 3.2 volumes of CO2. That's very highly carbonated, so lack of carbonation isn't the problem, i.e. the beer wouldn't be just "barely carbonated" before pouring.

Something is causing CO2 to break out violently, causing all the foam. So, I'll ask again... what's the inside diameter and length of your beer line? As an example, you'd probably need over 7
of 3/16" beer line to provide enough resistance for serving a beer at 15 PSI. I know you said you are serving at 10 PSI, but unless you allowed the excess CO2 to off-gas, you were really serving at 15 PSI initially.
 
It's a 5 litre Vevor mini keg, using C02 capsules for carbonation.

Something is causing CO2 to break out violently, causing all the foam. So, I'll ask again... what's the inside diameter and length of your beer line?
Unless the OP has modified his equipment, the 2 options I see for the keg mentioned look like this… depending on supplier.
4D609747-4810-4E21-9292-9053DFE431B5.jpeg
61B70751-6161-4079-9619-47E8546CBF16.jpeg
 
@VikeMan
I come to 2.8 volumes CO2 based on the brewersfriend chart & calculator?

Should still be more than plenty CO2 for proper carbonation.
Maybe pouring speed?
Yeah, pull the handle all the way, don't crack it open. If it's a picnic tap, mash that button like it's mortal combat.
 
@VikeMan
I come to 2.8 volumes CO2 based on the brewersfriend chart & calculator?

You are right. I typo'd somewhere along the line.

Should still be more than plenty CO2 for proper carbonation.
Maybe pouring speed?

This is why I asked about beer line diameter and line length.

Unless the OP has modified his equipment, the 2 options I see for the keg mentioned look like this… depending on supplier.

Do either of those options include a flow control mechanism? If not, that would be the problem (or at least a problem), i.e. not enough resistance.
 
So I pull the handle all the way, a d the diameter of the line is roughly 10mm is diameter. Do you think it's worth serving on 6-8psi? I beginners terms, what should I do?
 
So I pull the handle all the way, a d the diameter of the line is roughly 10mm is diameter. Do you think it's worth serving on 6-8psi? I beginners terms, what should I do?
Does your system look like the 2nd one in post #4?

10mm is the outside diameter of the beer line?
Is it "thick walled" beer line, walls being around 3 mm thick? If so, that would make the inside diameter about 4 mm.
How long is that beer line, between the keg and that black plastic "picnic tap?"

BTW, you can squeeze the little handle on those picnic taps, instead of locking it in the open position (by pulling it over the top).
Just always squeeze it down all the way, so it's fully open. Never squeeze it partly, as that would create turbulence and thus foam.
 
Last edited:
Ohhhh, my apologies, I misunderstood!
I have the first image. I've got a tilted tap rather than a party tap
 
Ohhhh, my apologies, I misunderstood!
I have the first image. I've got a tilted tap rather than a party tap
Since there is no line, except for the short one inside the keg, there's very little resistance (or none) in the dispensing system to reduce foaming. For reference, in a kegerator/keezer there are (relatively long) lines, going from the kegs to the faucets, that provide the needed back pressure. Serving at 12 psi requires 10-12' of 3/16" (~5 mm) ID line when serving at 38F/3.5C to prevent foaming.
http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
So yeah, reduce pressure to 6 psi or even a tad less. You'll have to vent off the excess CO2 in the keg's headspace and it will take some time for the extra CO2 that's already dissolved in the beer to dissipate, so you'll need to pull the PRV a few times over a day to vent that off.

Or use a 6' piece of 3mm ID EVA Barrier line between the keg and faucet, using the dedicated adapters.
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...ight-8mm-System/34mm-by-6mm-EVABarrier-Tubing
There are a few flow control faucets around, even a flow control QD (Kegland) but likely not sufficient to operate your keg as it is (with no line) at 12 psi.

We take kegs to homebrew related events, and quite a few have the faucet mounted just like you, quick, elegant, and easy, and serve at 6 psi. But most of use 6' of 3/16" ID thick-walled beer line, or better, 3-6' of 3mm EVA Barrier line, between the keg and picnic faucet at 6-12 psi.
That works OK, with a nod to the thinner EVA Barrier line for allowing 12 psi serving pressure, while helping to reduce/prevent the beer from oxidizing.
 
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