Thumper question

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Bubbles2

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New to this, watched a handful of vids, read some articles.

I understand that the thumper is like a second run....Does that mean I need to heat the thumper? I ask because of the thumper being the second run so I thought the 'Heart' was around 168ºf - 172º.

Second question if I skip the Thumper and re run the batch. Do I clean out the first run before adding the last run to re run?

I was looking at this one but it looks like the Thumper sits atop of the stil without a heat source.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-12-19L...a=0&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
A thumper allows you to add flavor from whatever juice you put in it. Think intense flavors if you want much carryover. It also allows you to bump the ABV by putting in mash or higher alcohol juice. Its a boiling point thing.Higher ABV in thumper boils lower and runs off higher. . I think its worth using. I heat mine until it starts to thump and then shut off heat and let the run bring it up to temp. I run two on my cobbled system and rarely have to run it thru twice.
 
A thumper allows you to add flavor from whatever juice you put in it. Think intense flavors if you want much carryover. It also allows you to bump the ABV by putting in mash or higher alcohol juice. Its a boiling point thing.Higher ABV in thumper boils lower and runs off higher. . I think its worth using. I heat mine until it starts to thump and then shut off heat and let the run bring it up to temp. I run two on my cobbled system and rarely have to run it thru twice.
Thanks GW, You are envisioning easy enough. But I am new.
So you pre-heat the Thumper until you hear it thump. So in that link the one sitting atop of the still would need longer lines and two burners?
You also state "Putting Mash or higher ABV" You meant in the Thumper? Since that was the question or were you stating a higher ABV in the still? Because I thought the still sends to thumper and then the thumper distills a bit more as in a second run as plates in a tower
 
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Yes higher ABV into thumper depresses boiling point and results in a higher output ABV. I turn on two burners . They are under the main pot and first thumper. The second thumper is small and can fend for its own heat. I heat the first thumper until I hear it starting to thump from the main pot. I put wash into main and both thumpers. I may add some alcohol to the second in the form of tails or a half bottle from a run that I didn't like. The thumper does increase the ABV, it increases it more if you bump up the ABV in that particular thumper.
 
I found this if someone comes across the differences as I asked.
Bottom line a thumper makes it a closed system.
 
Thumpers are traditionally heated by the output from the main vessel. That's the point and that's why using one results in an output that is essentially run twice. The vapor from the main vessel and column is condensed when it hits the cooler liquid in the bottom of the thumper. As the thumper temperature rises from the heat moving in the condensed goods are once again vaporized and sent to the condenser to be cooled and collected. While you can use a thumper for adding flavorings it can be charged simply with plain water. Once the temperatures stabilize the thumper should run about 5F lower than the main column.
 
Thumpers are traditionally heated by the output from the main vessel. That's the point and that's why using one results in an output that is essentially run twice. The vapor from the main vessel and column is condensed when it hits the cooler liquid in the bottom of the thumper. As the thumper temperature rises from the heat moving in the condensed goods are once again vaporized and sent to the condenser to be cooled and collected. While you can use a thumper for adding flavorings it can be charged simply with plain water. Once the temperatures stabilize the thumper should run about 5F lower than the main column.

This was my understanding when I read about Thumpers. They don’t need a heat source because the heat from the steam of the first vessel is a heat source.

Though I never saw any information regarding if the foreshots required different handling (temp/volume) or not with a Thumper to ensure safe to drink.
 
This was my understanding when I read about Thumpers. They don’t need a heat source because the heat from the steam of the first vessel is a heat source.

Though I never saw any information regarding if the foreshots required different handling (temp/volume) or not with a Thumper to ensure safe to drink.

Foreshots are foreshots and they would be handled the same way whether using a thumper or not. The thump keg re-condenses the output of the main kettle and is in direct line with that and the still's output from the condenser. There will be only one output of product. Monitor that by temperature, aroma, taste, and feel and make your cuts in the normal manner.
 
Preheating a thumper is not recommended, in order to be effective it must be heated with the steam from the main boiler. More like 1.5 runs really because if I strip run and load the boiler with low wines it actually comes out higher abv than just one run with the thumper.

I personally do 3 stripping runs using the thumper which will give me roughly 9 gallons of low wines, I then take the thumper out of the equation and do a spirit run using the primary boiler alone.

I can get 5ish gal of ready to barrel bourbon and when complete will be 125-130 proof. Perfect for barrels!)

FYI, my still is 2-15.5 gal kegs and a 50' worm in a 55 gal drum. Its the least expensive still ive had and works great for bourbon, rum and brandies.
 
Preheating a thumper is not recommended, in order to be effective it must be heated with the steam from the main boiler. More like 1.5 runs really because if I strip run and load the boiler with low wines it actually comes out higher abv than just one run with the thumper.

I personally do 3 stripping runs using the thumper which will give me roughly 9 gallons of low wines, I then take the thumper out of the equation and do a spirit run using the primary boiler alone.

I can get 5ish gal of ready to barrel bourbon and when complete will be 125-130 proof. Perfect for barrels!)

FYI, my still is 2-15.5 gal kegs and a 50' worm in a 55 gal drum. Its the least expensive still ive had and works great for bourbon, rum and brandies.
I kind of find that part of the Thumper "Not computing" Due to the 170ºf that the vapor becomes at start at the top of arm or tower and then travels down to the Thumper where "It is not heated" as you stated as others have. Where it goes to the bottom of the Thumper that has a "Low Wine" or Fients or whatever. But here is the confusing part....IF it takes a heat of 170-208ºf lets say for an example for the Ethanol to be separated from the H20... So how does it separate to now go into the worm to be condensed at a proper temp?

Is it from the Steam the Kettle is creating that ultimately heats up the Thumper, it's contents and then is passed through to the worm and collected? Hence why a therm is not really needed on the kettle, it's arm, or tower and more of what is coming out of the Thumper? It's kinda compounded question but as I type I am envisioning.
Yes/No?
 
I kind of find that part of the Thumper "Not computing" Due to the 170ºf that the vapor becomes at start at the top of arm or tower and then travels down to the Thumper where "It is not heated" as you stated as others have. Where it goes to the bottom of the Thumper that has a "Low Wine" or Fients or whatever. But here is the confusing part....IF it takes a heat of 170-208ºf lets say for an example for the Ethanol to be separated from the H20... So how does it separate to now go into the worm to be condensed at a proper temp?

When the hot vapors from the kettle exit the tower and are deposited into the cooler liquid in the thump keg they are re-condensed into liquid. Gradually as more vapors enter the thumper its liquid is heated to the point where the fractions are again vaporized, exit the thumper, then enter the condenser/worm to become liquefied to be finally collected as your cuts. The heating process takes some time, not unlike the original heating phase of the main kettle. Once vapors emerge from the thumper and are begun to be collected from the end of the condenser the temperature in the thumper continues to rise as additional heat is supplied by the main kettle. As I mentioned earlier, once this process stabilizes the thumper temperature will lag about 5F behind the main column output.

Is it from the Steam the Kettle is creating that ultimately heats up the Thumper, it's contents and then is passed through to the worm and collected? Hence why a therm is not really needed on the kettle, it's arm, or tower and more of what is coming out of the Thumper? It's kinda compounded question but as I type I am envisioning.
Yes/No?

As to whether a thermometer is needed that is a matter of personal preference. I use a thermometer on both the main column and the thump keg to help monitor the process.
 
When the hot vapors from the kettle exit the tower and are deposited into the cooler liquid in the thump keg they are re-condensed into liquid. Gradually as more vapors enter the thumper its liquid is heated to the point where the fractions are again vaporized, exit the thumper, then enter the condenser/worm to become liquefied to be finally collected as your cuts. The heating process takes some time, not unlike the original heating phase of the main kettle. Once vapors emerge from the thumper and are begun to be collected from the end of the condenser the temperature in the thumper continues to rise as additional heat is supplied by the main kettle. As I mentioned earlier, once this process stabilizes the thumper temperature will lag about 5F behind the main column output.



As to whether a thermometer is needed that is a matter of personal preference. I use a thermometer on both the main column and the thump keg to help monitor the process.

Thanks Big Ed.
 
Unless you make the exact same recipe a therm in a pot still is useless other than seein it.

For instance, if you make a wash/mash at 12% and another one at 6% the one with 12 will boil faster because theres more alky in solution.

I personally follow the heat by hand, once my lyne arm is hot all the way to the inlet side of the thump i know things are about to start making noise, then i feel the discharge side and when it makes it to the flakestand i know the goodies are about to start spurting.
 
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