American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

[skeezerpleezer]

steeping grains will not extract alot of sugar from specialty grains, no matter how long they are mashed because highly kilned specialty malts do not have they neccessary enzymes that a well modified base malt would have to convert the starches to sugar. If that's what you are looking to do, I would throw some 2 row in there and try doing your calculations based on a mini mash.

Do you consider Munich and Melanoiden specialty grains? No one said that steeping will make more sugar just that controlling temp can act as a mini mash when steeping.

 

[turvis]

Grrr brewed this today on my new set up and missed mash temps and was short on og by ten points. Guess I will have to get more practice in on my new rig. Hope it is at least decent despite my **** ups.

 

[turvis]

Just found a lb of DME going to add it in and hope.

 

[skeezerpleezer]

That should be fine.

 

[Timmush]

So are we thinking;
Brew
About 10 days later dry hop
About 10 days later bottle?
I know it depends on the numbers (steady gravity reading).
Also, can I get away with not using a secondary and just putting the dryhops in the primary?
And.. do you think it would benefit to split the dry hops into a few different grain bags?
do I need to weigh the bags down?
Thanks

 

[skeezerpleezer]

So are we thinking;
Brew
About 10 days later dry hop YES, sometimes I let it go longer
About 10 days later bottle? YES
I know it depends on the numbers (steady gravity reading).
Also, can I get away with not using a secondary and just putting the dryhops in the primary? YES
And.. do you think it would benefit to split the dry hops into a few different grain bags? You can, it makes them easier to remove
do I need to weigh the bags down? I usually do
Thanks

See above in bold

 

[nullvalue]

Just wanted to say I've tested my first bottle of this and WOW it's awesome, best brew I've made so far - tastes very close to the real thing.

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

If I dont first wort hop, can I do a 60 minute boil of 1 oz of Citra?? Or maybe .5 oz Warrior?? I use the BIAB method, and in BeerSmith, if I use .5 oz of Warrior at 60 minutes, it gives me about 65 IBU using everything else the same in the hop schedule. Sound alright???

 

[mkringii]

I do a full oz of warrior for a 75 min boil .. u might get better utilization doin that

 

[Darkness]

Brewed this last night used Millinum at 60min 1oz for bittering. And used fresh Citra hops for the rest can't wait to Finnish this up. Thanks for the recipe, good Brewing

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Just weighed out my hops. Getting ready to brew this today. Can't wait!!

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Brewed today. Almost hit my marks. BIAB style in an 11 gallon kettle.

OG-1.060
Brewday went pretty good. I am oxygenatin the wort right now and going to pitch 1.5 packets of S-04, trying to get my final gravity a bit lower than 1.018 or so. Hope it works. I prefer a little drier style. Maybe Ill use a cleaner finishing yeast next time, but this is what I have right now.

Hydro sample smells great. All whole leaf Citra that seemed to absorb quite a bit of wort. Tried to squeeze some of it out. Ended up with about 5.75 gallons into the fermentor. We shall see!!!

Cheers.

 

[SFBuff]

Your post (and location - I'm in SF) are eerily similar to mine. I brewed it Saturday - BIAB in 11 gallon kettle w/whole citra hops also - (Columbus pellets used as FWH for bittering though).

I went with While Labs 007 (Dry English) because it is more attenuative and had some saved from a previous batch...

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Haha. Kind of ironic.

I used Warrior for 60 minute addition for bittering. Didnt want to waste the precious Citra for bittering. Maybe we can trade a bottle and compare. I mashed a tiny bit low at 151-152. I wanted to d othis also to try and get it to finish a little drier/ cleaner.

 

[suorangeguy]

Do the hop additions in this recipe have the be scaled up to use all whole leaf instead of pellet? I stopped in my LHBS today was able to get two pounds of citra whole leaf for $14.99 a pound. No pellets though. I have only ever purchased pellet hops so this will be new for me.

 

[TRIPLEMSU]

Here is the extract/PM conversion:

Batch Size: 5g
Boil Volume: 3g

6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 %
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU
0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
SafAle English Ale (S-04)
or
Wyeast 1968

This is assuming a 3g boil, so if you can do a full boil remove the extra oz of hops at 60minutes.

Ferment at 65F for 7-10 days

The FWH addition's IBUs are calculated as a 20 minute addition to better calculate the perceived IBUs. They are boiled the whole 60 minutes.

This recipe has had favorable results with both S-04 and WY1968. For more information here is the original thread from the Recipes/Ingredients section:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/3-floyds-zombie-dust-attempt-help-info-requested-245456/[/QUOTE]

 

[SFGiantsFan925]

Do the hop additions in this recipe have the be scaled up to use all whole leaf instead of pellet? I stopped in my LHBS today was able to get two pounds of citra whole leaf for $14.99 a pound. No pellets though. I have only ever purchased pellet hops so this will be new for me.

The hop weights are all the same wether its whole leaf or pellet. You will just notice that when you weigh them out, the whole leaf hops take up a LOT more space than pellets would. They also absorb a LOT more water/ wort than pellet hops do. So plan for that. Not sure how much exactly, but I figured about .25 gallon in hops alone. I ended up with a bit more wort, but that also means more beer. Yay!

I think you will like the end result though!! Have a good brew day.

 

[Timmush]

I am almost ready to bottle. If I have 5.5 gallons to bottle, how much priming sugar? 4oz?

 

[JordanThomas]

I am almost ready to bottle. If I have 5.5 gallons to bottle, how much priming sugar? 4oz?

According to https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/edworts-apfelwein-33986/, at room temp (assuming 70):

2.75 volumes (I like my IPA's carb'd high)

Sugar Type Weight
Glucose (dextrose or corn sugar) 5.7 oz
Sucrose (table sugar) 5.4 oz
DME 55% AA (eg: Laaglander) 13.1 oz
DME 70% AA (eg: Northwestern) 10.3 oz
DME 75% AA (eg: Munton & Fison) 9.6 oz

 

[jammin]

omg - no WAY would I add 5.7oz of corn sugar to prime 5.5 gallons. maybe 3.25oz. 3.5 at the very most.

 

[JordanThomas]

Why not?...

Every calculator I used yielded between 5.6 and 5.7 for 2.75 volumes at 70F

 

[jammin]

In my experience, it would certainly lead to over carbonation.

 

[Timmush]

I am cold crashing now. So those calculators are confusing.
I usually find my beers are way too carbonated.
I have read to put the temp in that it is now (40's), the highest temp it fermented at (64) and the temp while bottle conditioning (68)
I dont know what to use.

 

[jammin]

Add 3.25oz (weighed on a scale) and report back in two weeks.

I bet it comes out bang on

Disregard all the temp BS. It's nearly meaningless.

 

[JordanThomas]

At 40F, I'd use 3.8oz. Again, that's 2.75 volumes. If you usually get overcarbed beer, you'd have to report some of your notes to us on attempts that were overcarbed. Frankly, mine were coming out undercarbed, but I was carbing between 2.0 and 2.25. When I started upping it to 2.5-2.75, I liked the results much better.

The calculator asks what the temp of your beer is at the time you're bottling it.

 

[skeezerpleezer]

I could be wrong, but I believe you are supposed to use the ferment temperature.

 

[JordanThomas]

I could be wrong, but I believe you are supposed to use the ferment temperature.

All of the calculators say "current temperature," but you're right, it's the final fermentation temp. Just happens to be room temp in my case each time. Which is about 68.

 

[AllHopAbandon]

Question about the FWH addition: if I plug this recipe into Beersmith I seem to end up with a whopping 92.5 IBU, and my FWH contributes 41.8 to the total. I come closer to 65 IBU if I treat the FWH addition as a 20 minute addition, as mentioned somewhere in this thread. Is the difference between calculated bitterness and perceived bitterness from FWH really this huge? Or is Beersmith wrong?

Since there's been no complaints about bitterness in this thread, I assume I can safely brew this without ending up with something completely unbalanced, I'm just a bit confused about the IBU difference and I need some reassurance I plan on brewing this tomorrow.

Brewed, kegged and tasted. I think I understand now how this 'perceived bitterness' thing from FWH works, and my worries proved to be unfounded The bitterness is definitely there, but quite smooth indeed. I have no clue what the real deal tastes like, but I like what I'm drinking right now

 

[DerBraumeister]

It should be the highest temperature the beer has reached after fermentation is complete. Once fermentation is complete, no additional CO2 is introduced, it will only get released but will stay in solution if the solubility (temp dependant) allows it.

Regards, BM

 

[AllHopAbandon]

I'd like to add something to this whole temperature/priming calculator discussion. The reason those priming calculators ask you to enter a temperature is to determine the amount of CO2 that's already in the beer before priming and bottle conditioning. Consider the following:

When the beer is done fermenting, it's saturated with CO2. It's not much at normal atmospheric pressure, but it's there. Cool the beer down and not much happens since colder beer can actually hold more CO2. But no more CO2 gets dissolved since fermentation is done. Warm the beer up and CO2 dissipates from the beer, lowering the amount of CO2 dissolved in it. Cool it down again and once more nothing changes. Same amount of CO2 as after warming it up. So the temperature the priming calculator uses should be the highest temperature the beer has reached after fermentation is done.