Thread vs TC connections for BK

[marjen]

I am working on a new custom kettle setup with Spike and have a question for anyone that has threaded connections on their BKs, how is the cleaning effort? Do you unscrew them after each batch? Then do you need to retape them each time? I currently have all TC on my SS Brewtech kettle and its nice to be able to just remove the ports easily for cleaning. I am wondering if I should just get all TC ports on the new kettle. At the moment I only have it specced for a TC for the element and the steam condenser. I have threaded for the thermowell, whirlpool and racking ports. Thanks for any advise.

 

[dunnry]

I am working on a new custom kettle setup with Spike and have a question for anyone that has threaded connections on their BKs, how is the cleaning effort? Do you unscrew them after each batch? Then do you need to retape them each time? I currently have all TC on my SS Brewtech kettle and its nice to be able to just remove the ports easily for cleaning. I am wondering if I should just get all TC ports on the new kettle. At the moment I only have it specced for a TC for the element and the steam condenser. I have threaded for the thermowell, whirlpool and racking ports. Thanks for any advise.

I have all threaded on my BK and hotside using this type of QD. In general, on the hotside it won't be a sanitation issue, though you can get a quite a build up if you don't run PBW every so often. If I were to do it again, I would use TC connections with same QD or Camlocks or at least use ball valves with 'quick clean' break apart capability. Again, that's not because I am worried about an infection. Rather, I just like to clean out the gunk in the valves more often. TC is more expensive for sure, but it's also a lot more interchangeable in other parts of the brewery.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

The only thing in my kettle is a 5500w element and temp probe. Both screwed in. The probe you just wipe down, nothing to it. The element is more work. I wipe it down and then run a kitchen sponge between the elements best I can. Removing it with a tri clamp setup would make that easier for sure. I dry fired it once in 5 years when it was getting bad and it literally made it look like new.

It really just depends how anal you are with cleaning something that will have boiling liquid in it the next brew day.

So to answer the question. A tri clamp would be nice for the element but not something I feel like I'm missing or really need.

I would NOT be unscrewing and re screwing things every brew day. That sounds like a leak waiting to happen and unneeded work. I got mine to not leak from the get go and never touched it again.

 

[cubalz]

I have Spike kettles for my electric brew system and I use 1.5" TC connections for everything and it makes it very easy to clean and disconnect if I need to move the kettle. I love the ease of use but it is considerably more money than threaded bungs.

 

[mirthfuldragon]

My setup is camlocks and welded NPT fittings. When I finally build my eBIAB, the element would be a tri-clamp setup if only for the ease of cleaning and taking it apart. That being said, I take my kettles apart about every six months and clean them. I use three piece ball valves. Also, tri-clamps are sexy.

When I bought the kettles, I wound up throwing away a one piece valve because it was so manky that I could not get it clean, even after a three day soak in PBW. I think what happened was that sweet wort was left in the closed valve, causing the crud buildup.

Now when I clean, I flush my ball valves from both sides and cycle them open and closed several times, so that nothing gets stuck in them.

 

[JDXX1971]

I just drilled out the threaded couplings in my Spike 20 gallon kettles and installed tri clamp ferrules via Brew Hardware's pull through kit. I initially only did the pick up tube port so I can make a custom dip tube, but like mentioned above the tc is super sexy looking so I drilled out the other coupling and installed a tc ferrule there too. I plan to use the tc fittings in conjunction with cam locks to tie into the rest of my system. Someday I may try to eliminate all threads in the system as I do notice a little build up when I take things apart, and I clean and back flush pretty thoroughly every time I brew.

 

[marjen]

So it sounds like there is no real concern from an infection standpoint, as the wort gets boiled. I might just stick with the TCs for the element and condenser then and leave the rest threaded NPT. I will be using quick connects or cam locks as I do today. I have TCs for all my other equipment, so interchangeability would be nice, but not sure it would be needed for those couple of ports.

 

[dunnry]

So it sounds like there is no real concern from an infection standpoint, as the wort gets boiled. I might just stick with the TCs for the element and condenser then and leave the rest threaded NPT. I will be using quick connects or cam locks as I do today. I have TCs for all my other equipment, so interchangeability would be nice, but not sure it would be needed for those couple of ports.

Infection is not a concern on hot, but I would still at a minimum get the quick clean variety of NPT ball valves. Honestly, if the cost is not an issue, I would use TC on the kettle everywhere and convert it to NPT for the QD technology you choose, using the tri clamp quick clean valves.

 

[FunkedOut]

Maybe I’m slow, but I consider a TC a quick disconnect.
Not sure why I would convert a TC connection to another type of QD if speed is the only reason.
If everything is TC, no other connections needed IMO.

 

[dunnry]

Maybe I’m slow, but I consider a TC a quick disconnect.
Not sure why I would convert a TC connection to another type of QD if speed is the only reason.
If everything is TC, no other connections needed IMO.

No, I would not call it a QD technology. It's definitely a two handed operation for most mortals and attaching the clamps is not really all that quick. It's really slow when your conical is on wheels and moves when it's empty (use brakes, I know)...

It was meant for sanitary and swappable properties, not speed. I guess it's all relative. It's just not nearly as fast as the stainless QD with ball bearings (nor one handed). I don't use camlocks (buddy does), but those are also QD and much quicker to connect. Even with years of practice now, I am still 10-20x slower with TC than my current QD. It's like multiple seconds vs sub-second - no comparison.

Edit: That being said, I would gladly deal with TC. It's not that big of a deal compared to my current QDs. It's not like I am changing hoses constantly where it would matter that much.

 

[FunkedOut]

I guess there is a difference in speed, just not one I would be concerned with. A handful of seconds per brew means nothing to me.

Along that line of thinking, threaded connections are not that slow either. A handful of minutes added to each brew.
The hassle is what makes me seek an alternative here.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

The speediest disconnect is no disconnect
My beers haven't tasted any worse over the years...so what does that tell ya

 

[FunkedOut]

The speediest disconnect is no disconnect
My beers haven't tasted any worse over the years...so what does that tell ya

That the connection speed has no discernible effect on the quality of the beer?