TheDom's Keezer build

[TheDom]

I finally talked SWMBO into letting me start kegging. Woohoo! I picked up a 8.9cf Whirlpool chest freezer for about $100 on craigslist. Since Bobby_M was so kind as to post video instructions on how to convert this particular model to a keezer, I just followed the basics and was able to stumble through the rest. I bought the 3 faucet premium pin lock kit from kegconnection.com, and figured I had to go with the perlick creamer faucets while I was at it.

Here it is with the lid off in the middle of sanding.


I tried using a miter box, but was a dummy and picked up a 4" wide box to cut my 1x6" wood. I tried to use it anyway with the wood standing on end, and got frustrated in about 10mins and just bit the bullet and bought a new toy.

For $99 the thing works well, except again, I'm a dummy and forgot to square the blade properly and tighten down all the adjustment screws all the way. That messed up my nice 45 degree miters on the ends, but lengthwise everything was fine, so I just used an extra bit of liquid nails and the corners turned out fine. I also used a handy 90 degree clamp that Costarine recommended in his keezer build, and it is a great little tool, way worth the $20 or 30 it cost me. I just set the wood on a flat surface, put the liquid nails in there, put the clamp on and I had a perfect 90 degree corner.




Collar pre-stain:


I did a chalkboard paint on the lid so we can label things easily. The bottom half I painted with Rustoleum's hammered metal paint in black. SWMBO had suggested it, and it turned out looking pretty neat for as easy as it was to do.

Hooray!


I did have some foaming problems initially, and have since solved them with 10' of line on two of the taps, and an old laptop fan hooked to a phone charger. I don't have any pics of that yet, but I'll put 'em up here when I do.

 

[TheDom]

Here's the Ranco temp controller, I just drilled a small hole for the probe, and filled in the gaps with silicone. You can also see our fine labeling tools underneath the cords there.


I was able to re-attach the original seal from the lid by stapling it to the bottom of the collar. It makes a good seal, especially with the extra weight of the collar on it. Unfortunately I put the collar on too soon after painting, so the white part looks like hell when open. I also glued in 2" of styrofoam on each side for insulation, and the collar doesn't get cold to the touch, so it must be doing an acceptable job of insulating.


Here's my fan that I pulled out of an eight year old laptop. Before installing the fan I had ice on the bottom and 50 degree temps in the top of the keezer. Since installation, it's been spot on at 37 all throughout. It hasn't solved all my first pour foaming woes, so I think I may move it to where it's blowing across the back of the shanks. I just attached it with two strips of heavy duty velcro, so moving it around will be a breeze.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Dom,
if the wifey sees that photo using her table your dead meat.
I stay out of the house she stays out of the garage and shop.

 

[Ricand]

Sweet! The Dom be married to a very tolerant wife. I couldnt see the wife letting me glue and clamp right on the dining room table.

If your first pint is foamy then the second immediately after isn't, then your problem might be loops in the lines. Either that or a cooling issue with the faucets, but that's unlikely in a keezer. My bet is when you close the lid the lines make major loops and trap bubbles creating foamy pours.

 

[TheDom]

Sweet! The Dom be married to a very tolerant wife. I couldnt see the wife letting me glue and clamp right on the dining room table.

She is extremely tolerant, though if I hadn't put down newspaper under the glue I'd have been in trouble!

If your first pint is foamy then the second immediately after isn't, then your problem might be loops in the lines. Either that or a cooling issue with the faucets, but that's unlikely in a keezer. My bet is when you close the lid the lines make major loops and trap bubbles creating foamy pours.

Loops eh? I didn't come across that when I was searching for foamy beer problems. I've got 10' lines zip tied into coils about a foot or so in diameter, and they just rest on top of the kegs. Could that be the problem?

 

[dedhedjed]

Is that true about coiled lines? I've never heard that before. I don't have what I would consider a foaming problem and my lines are all sorts of coiled...I do get a little more head than I would like on the first pour, but I've never seen any air bubbles in the coiled lines...I'm intrigued to hear more on this...

sorry for a mild thread-hijack...

 

[Ricand]

Coiled lines aren't a problem, but ideally you want everything going up toward the faucet. If you have a loop, where it drops down, foam builds up in the 'loop'. If it starts foaming in the glass, it will cause more foaming. Pull a few ounces to clear the line, then toss that beer. Pull another and it will be perfect.

I didn't have the collar and faucets come up with my lid for that reason. It's hard to know where the lines go when the lid closes. You do have to lift the cornies higher to get them into the weezer. (ubermick coined the term of wee keezer as weezer) I have another keezer with an 8 tap T tower that lifts with the top. I have issues with looped lines in that one.

 

[TheDom]

No hijack at all, I'm curious as well! Thanks for the info Ricand, I'll try mounting some hose ties to the top of the lid if moving the fan doesn't fix the foamy first pour problem.

 

[cruelkix]

I have hose all over the place with god knows how many loops in it. The #1 cuase of foaming on this forum is improper line length. Depending on what pressure you are running your beer at 10 ft. may not be enough. I went to 15 ft. and life is good. And if 15 ft makes the beer come out too slow for ya (which I can't believe that it would, cuz even a slow pouring beer fills plenty quickly), then start cutting a ft off at a time and see where you get. There are line length calculators around if you havent found one already.

 

[TheDom]

I thought 10' put me squarely into "won't have to worry about it" range. I've got a keg of SNPA set at 12psi. 10' should be plenty, shouldn't it?

 

[cruelkix]

I thought 10' put me squarely into "won't have to worry about it" range. I've got a keg of SNPA set at 12psi. 10' should be plenty, shouldn't it?

I was just going off the fact taht you are having foaming issues still. I mean check out your lines. You shouldn't be seeing any bubbles in teh lines becuase the lines are at the same pressure as your keg, therefor keeping your CO2 in suspension in the lines.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f84/beer-line-length-pressure-calculator-35369/

The line length calculator is there. You need to know what temp your beer is at anda few other measurements. I mean it will prob tell you have plenty of line length. I'm just letting you know works for me. I rarely get a foamy pour and I attribute it to warm glasses. I have no problem with the fact that it takes like 8-10 seconds to fill a pint.

I'm not sure what else would be causing you to foam up.

 

[TheDom]

Thanks man. You know, I've messed around with fans, line length and all that hardware jazz, and haven't ever tried a cold glass.