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The cure for your short hose troubles

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I've been using some of these mixing sticks for a while now. And although they definitley slow down the pour it seems to me that they may be knocking out the gas from the beer as it flows over the mixers. I just find the beer doesn't have much carbonation after I pour. Yes, I don't get a glass of all foam, but now I hardly get a head at all. Does anyone else see this happening?

I've just started using them and haven't tried them with a fully carbed batch other than my Oatmeal stout which tends to have a low fast dissipating head due to the oils. It pours with very little head for me using 2 sticks -- which is probably slightly too much resistance -- but if I half open my picnic tap and give it a shot of foam it gets a decent head on it.

I've got a few batches that should be carbed up properly soon (I'm a set and forgetter) and then I'll report back. I'd expect if the CO2 was getting knocked out though, you'd see foam though since it'd happen on the way through the tube out... much like the restrictor plate in a stout faucet causes the co2 to knock out and foam.
 
I am new to kegging and was having foam problems with my very first kegged batch. After trying several solutions, I decided to try the swizzle stick method.

While reading all of the pages in this thread, I had a hard time picturing what the swizzle sticks were like, until someone posted a pic of one and that helped a lot. In my reading, I also saw that many people were having trouble picturing how to get the swizzle out of the shaft it comes in, so I took some pics at various points in the process of taking the swizzle out. Believe me, it's a very easy and fast process, but just to give people an idea of what they will be doing, I thought I would post the pics here as an "illustrated tutorial", or whatever. I hope it helps.

Just some background, my beer is a stout at about 38*F at 10psi. It's in a ball lock keg with about 5ft of tubing with a party tap at the end, typical of kegconnection.

Funnily enough, I have yet to insert the swizzles in my keg as I'm waiting for the beer to get back to being carbed. It had gotten over carbed so I released all the pressure, "flattened" it out and then recarbed it using the "set and forget" technique. Wish me luck when I actually put them in.

The tube with the swizzle still inside
IMG_4084.jpg


Close up of the swizzle thru tube
IMG_4085.jpg


Tube/swizzle with wire I used to push swizzle out
IMG_4087.jpg


Wire entering from tapered end of tube
IMG_4089.jpg


Wire pushing swizzle out open end
IMG_4091.jpg


Close up of swizzle coming out open end
IMG_4090.jpg


Swizzle most of the way out
IMG_4091.jpg


Swizzle out of the tube
IMG_4093.jpg


Quarter for scale of swizzle (I thought they would be much shorter than they are)
IMG_4094.jpg
 
Brewed Hefeweizen.

Filled a cup to clear line then got out a frosted glass. Used 2 full length mixer sticks and got 3/4 cup of foam w/ 24 psi @ ~34F and 5' hose shooting for 4 vol co2. Any suggestions?
 
Brewed Hefeweizen.

Filled a cup to clear line then got out a frosted glass. Used 2 full length mixer sticks and got 3/4 cup of foam w/ 24 psi @ ~34F and 5' hose shooting for 4 vol co2. Any suggestions?

Frosted glass = beau coup nucleation sites. What happens if you use a rinsed glass?

Cheers!
 
I was under the impression you wanted to use a frosted glass so when the fluid hits the glass the temp can help keep the gas in the fluid. Not sure what beau coup means...

I will try a rinsed glass
 
What does that translate into for inside diameter?
Unless you're sending beer like 20 feet from the keg, 3/16" ID is the appropriate tubing...

Cheers!

Pretty sure it is 1/4 " ID, sounds like I may need to change the line if 3/16 is ideal. Its only going up and out the kegerator tower.
 
Pretty sure it is 1/4 " ID, sounds like I may need to change the line if 3/16 is ideal. Its only going up and out the kegerator tower.

3/16" will add more restriction to the line, meaning you'll get less foam. It wont be perfect though. At 4 volumes, my kegerator will pour about 3/4 glass beer with 2 and a half mix sticks.
 
3/16" will add more restriction to the line, meaning you'll get less foam. It wont be perfect though. At 4 volumes, my kegerator will pour about 3/4 glass beer with 2 and a half mix sticks.

I could handle that. I went ahead and added 2 sticks (4 total) to see if it is a little better. Thanks for your info.
 
Changed the 1/4" ID to 5' of 3/16 ID line with 4 mixer sticks. 95% foam at ~34F and 20 psi. Any ideas?
 
If you are having foaming problems with 3+ mixer sticks try removing one or two. When I tried them after the third it actually made it worse. Two seems to work great.
 
I put four sticks in a keg of carbonated water at 30 psi. Faucet is right on the keg with a quick disconnect adaptor, no hose at all for this keg. Nice easy slow pour.
 
I can't find these anywhere in Europe at anything like a reasonable price. Does anyone have any suggestions? I live in Sweden but have family in the UK so can buy there too.

Failing that, it's a long shot but is there someone in the US who can send me some (i'll pay of course)
 
i did 4 glasses back to back

The last time I read of someone with a similar, baffling foam problem, it turned out the Out dip tube had a hole in it...

Cheers!

I have also heard of there being a plastic bur inside the disconnect causing foaming problems. You might try disassembling the disconnect and inspecting it.
 
I'm having foamy first pours out of a kegerator with a two faucet tower. I have a tower cooling blower fan, but that hasn't stopped the problem. I serve at around 10-12 psi. The lines are probably around 3/16" by 4' from kegcowboy.com. Perfect pours after the first.

Would this approach solve my problem or is it just meant for high carbed brews that would foam on every pour if not for the extra resistance?
 
I'm having foamy first pours out of a kegerator with a two faucet tower. I have a tower cooling blower fan, but that hasn't stopped the problem. I serve at around 10-12 psi. The lines are probably around 3/16" by 4' from kegcowboy.com. Perfect pours after the first.

Would this approach solve my problem or is it just meant for high carbed brews that would foam on every pour if not for the extra resistance?

Should help. 4' is too short IMO without enough line restriction. Choice is either to add these, or push your lines up in length to 10 feet and cut back until you get better pours.
 
Should help. 4' is too short IMO without enough line restriction. Choice is either to add these, or push your lines up in length to 10 feet and cut back until you get better pours.

I think these inserts would be easier than for me to re-run the beer lines. I don't have my tower came pre-assembled, so I don't have any faucet wrenches or anything else I may need to replace the lines. Plus, I ran the beer lines into my tower cooler hose as shown in the post below:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/cure-your-short-hose-troubles-100151/

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'm going to give it a shot.
 
Neither Grainger nor McMaster ship to Canada. Any HBT'er out there wanna order me some and I'll paypal you for the cost and postage up to Canada?
 
Neither Grainger nor McMaster ship to Canada. Any HBT'er out there wanna order me some and I'll paypal you for the cost and postage up to Canada?

I was going to pick some up from McMaster and would be happy to send them your way. Just sent you a PM.
 
hey guys.. ready for the orgasm.. Acklands Grainger is the canadian version of the us company...
ive been doing research and here is is. from AG

NOZZLE MIX LUER SLIP 6.3MM 10/BG
Product # LCT98454
Manufacturer # 98454

heres the link its not live

hXXps://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/WebSource/ProductDisplay/globalProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=LCT98454

please change XX to tt
 

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