Stuck sparge

[jessej122]

First all grain brew yesterday,couple issues first I ended up mashing at about 158, then my SS braid got clogged and it took about 90 min to grain off we had to use the mash paddle to clear the braid. We took our preboil reading and were only at 1.038 so I got worried but afterward I remember the wort was still hot when we took the sample. So you think ill have any issues? The FG after boil was 1.060

 

[ph0ngwh0ng]

If you re-vorlauf after clearing the braid so the grain settles again, there shouldn't be any problems astringency-wise.

All your other data, I really can't say without the recipe and your process.

 

[jessej122]

I didn't because we had to keep the paddle in for the wort to come out but I didn't vorlauf after the first time

 

[jessej122]

I batched sparged also

 

[ph0ngwh0ng]

Ok. So, good news is it's gonna be beer eventually.

Bad news (somewhat) is that your beer won't be excellent. You need to vorlauf (drain the mash tun until the wort is clear, while redistributing the runnings gently over the grain bed) so that not so much grain enters the kettle. This can cause clarity problems (not very bad) and astringency (ranging from not very bad to awful).

The sparging time (90 minutes) is kind of long, and I never ran in such an issue. I don't know what could be the consequences of that, but I read in a sticky that it can reduce attenuation time and also can alter the body of the beer. Anyhow, if you brew that recipe again, you'll know.

Finally, a stuck sparge isn't common in batch sparging. You might want to check your grain crush, it may be too fine.

 

[brewkinger]

I would only want to address the last part of the above. A stuck sparge is common in all kinds of sparging, batch sparging included.
If you open the valve too fast initially, the grain bed settles too fast and becomes too compacted to run.
Open slow at first and get the flow running and grain bed set and increase accordingly.
It was the reason that I switched from braid filter to false bottom. The weight of the grain pretty much squished it and not to mention I kept smacking it with the paddle.

 

[ShaineT]

I would only want to address the last part of the above. A stuck sparge is common in all kinds of sparging, batch sparging included.
If you open the valve too fast initially, the grain bed settles too fast and becomes too compacted to run.
Open slow at first and get the flow running and grain bed set and increase accordingly.
It was the reason that I switched from braid filter to false bottom. The weight of the grain pretty much squished it and not to mention I kept smacking it with the paddle.

Sometimes you're better off just dumping the entire mash into a tub. Take care of whatever flow problem has occured, pour it back, stir, vorloft and re-establish your grain bed. I had to do this when my dip tube became dislocated, I didn't lose temperature and it turned out great. Ofcourse this may not be an option for batches in excess of 20 gal. Either way get someone to help you with the pouring, its a two man lift.

 

[revelation]

I had my first stuck sparge this weekend. I was doing a saison with 9lbs pilsner and 1lb wheat. I opened the valve slowly (like always) and a trickle came through and then nothing. I tried using my paddle to make sure there wasn't a compacted bed or something. No dice. I was on the verge of dumping into a second container and tipped the tun away from the valve. I looked to make sure the braid was still attached and then said, "hmmm, I really don't want to dump this, let me try one more time". Apparently the act of tipping away from the valve worked and the sweet liquor flowed. I did a vorlauf for a while before it cleared, so I think my crush was a bit too fine.

A bit of excitement but it all worked out in the end.

 

[brewkinger]

I was able to blow back into the drain tube until I heard and felt a bubble and then it remedied itself.
I would try a few things before I would empty my mash tun. In my experience, the critical point is initial draining and setting that grain bed.
Too much too soon can mess it up. You are setting up a natural grain filter and it has to be done correctly.

 

[ShaineT]

I was able to blow back into the drain tube until I heard and felt a bubble and then it remedied itself.
I would try a few things before I would empty my mash tun. In my experience, the critical point is initial draining and setting that grain bed.
Too much too soon can mess it up. You are setting up a natural grain filter and it has to be done correctly.

Not to say I didn't troubleshoot before I decided to dump but it is a viable option when all else is failing.

 

[brewkinger]

+1 to that Shaine. Was not implying that you hadn't done some troubleshooting.
Thankfully I have never had to dump as it sounds like a real pain in the arse.

 

[ShaineT]

+1 to that Shaine. Was not implying that you hadn't done some troubleshooting.
Thankfully I have never had to dump as it sounds like a real pain in the arse.

No problem. Yeah its a PITA and I'll be making sure my dip tube is fitting tight from now on LOL.