Stovetop too cramped? Burner Plate or Electric? (with pics)

[GoodTruble]

So, it's "possible" my stove-top BIAB brewing led to the timely, steam-induced demise of my very old over-the-range microwave. Can't be sure, but it was old and it's time had come regardless

The new over-the-range is even closer to the stove top (by 1 inch), and I don't think I want to risk over-steaming it to death as well (though I'm open to contrary opinions). Pic below.....



So I am weighing whether I should purchase a separate burner to brew on or maybe just jump to an electric kettle setup (probably Brewzilla or Anvil). - I really like my current brewing process, and so I am leaning towards just buying a separate electric plate burner. But for the cost of a decent burner, an electric kettle may just be the better option. (I don't want to go propane burner because I don't have a good spot to brew with it).

I appreciate any advice, guidance, product suggestions anyone may have

 

[IslandLizard]

I brew in the kitchen on a $200 3500W/240V induction plate (Avantco IC3500). But it's placed on the countertop under a window, which open and put a box fan in when brewing/boiling to vent the boil off (steam), it's a gallon an hour.

But I can brew basically anywhere, even outside, as long as I have access to a 240V/20A receptacle.

 

[GoodTruble]

@IslandLizard

Thank you. I looked into induction plate earlier. But my kettle will not work. But I could also upgrade to a bigger kettle now that there won't be a height limitation.......

 

[hotbeer]

Probably a building code violation there. Certainly wouldn't have gotten a CO for a new structure in my area.

 

[IslandLizard]

If you want to brew inside, you need some decent way to vent.* There's always the Steam Slayer option if there's no exhaust nearby your brewing area.

* I did a few brews on the stove, 5 gallon batches, full boils, and ended up with tons of brown drips on the walls and ceilings, and not only in the kitchen... But the stove didn't work all that well, it was hard to retain a boil as the (triple) element kept cycling off/on. I had to keep the lid on partially and add some insulation.

 

[GoodTruble]

If you want to brew inside, you need some decent way to vent.* There's always the Steam Slayer option if there's no exhaust nearby your brewing area.

* I did a few brews on the stove, 5 gallon batches, full boils, and ended up with tons of brown drips on the walls and ceilings, and not only in the kitchen... But the stove didn't work all that well, it was hard to retain a boil as the (triple) element kept cycling off/on. I had to keep the lid on partially and add some insulation.

I can easily maintain a boil on the stove top (-it can even heat a bit faster than I want sometimes). But yeah, would rather not stain the wall/ceiling. Old microwave was probably hiding/absorbing the problem before. I've got pretty high ceilings in the kitchen (11-13 feet).

@hotbeer - You may be right. I assume cabinet bottoms met code height, but new microwave dips 1 inch lower (at one point).

 

[GoodTruble]

I wonder if there are any good regular (not inductive) burners. I've got an alcove with lots of windows off the kitchen I could use to brew with good ventilation.

But at some price point, electric kettle starts to look appealing. -But I'm not sure I would enjoy that as much (seems less hands-on).

 

[IslandLizard]

Once you use induction you don't want to go back to heating coils under smooth glass tops, discs or bare.
I do a lot more than brewing with those induction plates, that's why I got 2 of them.

 

[GoodTruble]

I brew in the kitchen on a $200 3500W/240V induction plate (Avantco IC3500). But it's placed on the countertop under a window, which open and put a box fan in when brewing/boiling to vent the boil off (steam), it's a gallon an hour.

But I can brew basically anywhere, even outside, as long as I have access to a 240V/20A receptacle.

Does your kettle overhang the edges of the IC3500?

I think I can get an induction diffuser plate to make my existing brew kettle work. But they seem to max out at 9.5 inches. So I would have an 11 inch induction burner, topped by a 9 inch diffuser plate, with a 14 inch kettle sitting on it. I'm actually not worried about the heating power, more worried about the kettle getting unbalanced during a boil.

 

[IslandLizard]

Does your kettle overhang the edges of the IC3500?

Yes, my 8 gallon overhangs by about an inch over the sides. My 15 gallon kettle overhangs by 2-3 inches. It's not a problem. The overhang does not impede anything.

I think I can get an induction diffuser plate to make my existing brew kettle work.

Don't! They don't work very well or not at all, have terrible efficiency when used underneath (on the outside), and can't be used on the inside, due to scorching and other problems. You would need a kettle that is induction ready/friendly.

My 2 main heavy duty brew kettles are magnetic and have (thick) tri-ply bottoms, which helps against unwanted scorching.

I have another 8 gallon kettle, a cheaper, much lighter weight Polarware brand that is not magnetic, but works totally fine on the induction plate. I make soup stocks in that and whatnot.

So I would have an 11 inch induction burner, topped by a 9 inch diffuser plate, with a 14 inch kettle sitting on it. I'm actually not worried about the heating power, more worried about the kettle getting unbalanced during a boil.

That would turn your induction plate into a regular electric disk-type element, which indirectly heats your kettle. That's definitely a Cat-in-the-Hat approach. And yup, it could cause imbalance, while all that weight is directly on the glass insert, not distributed over the stainless frame/bezel.

BTW, the effective induction heating area is about a 6-7" circle, not 11 inch.

 

[GoodTruble]

Hmmm, my current kettle is stainless but not magnetic. Wonder if it may still work.

...never mind. It is specifically listed as not working with induction burners

 

[GoodTruble]

I think I may go Brewzilla. It would allow me to more easily move brewing operations downstairs, and allows me to expand a bit for just about the same investment as a new kettle and good induction plate.

It seems like the biggest drawbacks are heating speed, equipment durability, and grain efficiency (especially if you don't mill your own grain). But I already mill my own grain (and will use BIAB) and don't mind the extra heating time. And if the equipment lasts 2 years, I would fine with it. I'm waiting a few more days to pull the trigger though. Will see.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

I've used a Klarstein electric brewer for the last couple of brews out here where I work. (in the Aleutian Islands)
It seems to be a good unit, although it heats a bit slow, comes with a "brew basket" and a stainless immersion chiller, all economically priced.
I was a bit skeptical as I hadn't done BIAB before, but we have made a couple of tasty beers already.
A built a kegerator from a refrigerator that we reallocated.

 

[GoodTruble]

Wow, is it tough to get ingredients?

I had not heard of Klarstein, but it seems very similar. I think slow heating is just typical of 120 volt setups. But I don't have a 240 volt outlet option.
I love BIAB and may skip the brew basket and just stick with a secure mesh bag. From reading a bit, it seems like efficiency may increase that way. Still going to wait a few days to make up my mind. ....but I'm pretty far down the road of mentally planning out my new brew space.......