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As far as I can tell from the pictures, the wiring seems correct. One thing that has happened to me a couple of times is applying too much heat when clearing the pads of solder and one pad comes off, this leads to a bad connection. In that case, it can be bridged with solder to the solder joint connection between the pcbs.
If you are certain the wiring is correct, then check for continuity and try to see if there is any connection problem.
 
I am not experienced in circuit boards, what would I test continuity between the individual pin header sockets and ______?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Your first picture actually shows the STC powered on when connected to the arduino. You might want to ensure you have the correct COM port and baud rate selected because you should not be seeing that message since it looks correctly wired and powered.
 
If the baudrate and/or wrong port were selected, then no communication whatsoever would be the result. The fact that the error message appears, says that the problem is between the arduino and stc, not the arduino and the computer.
As far as continuity, I'd say that gnd and vcc seems ok, since the display lights up. So what you want to check is that the other three connections are ok. A multimeter would be good. You could also start by visually inspect the soldering if there might be some issue.
If you have a multimeter, check the connection between the solder point of the pin on the arduino and the solder point of the connection where the two pcbs are joined together. Also check for shorts. Visually inspecting the soldering has solved it for me most of the times, but a multimeter is a great tool to confirm.
There is an off chance that there is something wonky with either your arduino, your wires or your stc, but I'd say there is a 99% probability that you have a short or a bad connection.
 
I've put a link for a zip file with all of the necessary files. Simply extract this zip and you can drag-drop the html file in a browser to check that it's working. After that, you can adjust default values directly in the html. While not "ideal", it DOES work and allows you to save your work/profiles for future adjustments.

http://justfortesting.byethost12.com/STC1000HexGenerator.zip

When I open my saved file and then "Switch scale" to Fahrenheit, the profile values convert correctly, but some of the settings do not. For example, the hysteresis and temperature correction values change, but they do not change to the correct values. My temperature correction is -0.3 C, so I expect it to convert to -0.5 F. Instead, it converts to -1.0 F. It isn't a big problem to change these values before I generate the hex code, but I thought I should point it out in case others are using this utility the way I am.

Thank you again for creating this.
 
When I open my saved file and then "Switch scale" to Fahrenheit, the profile values convert correctly, but some of the settings do not. For example, the hysteresis and temperature correction values change, but they do not change to the correct values. My temperature correction is -0.3 C, so I expect it to convert to -0.5 F. Instead, it converts to -1.0 F. It isn't a big problem to change these values before I generate the hex code, but I thought I should point it out in case others are using this utility the way I am.

Thank you again for creating this.

I've worked on the temperature scale switching javascript function and seem to have it worked out on my end using FireFox. If you swap out the function with the one below then it should resolve the issue.

This function is found on lines 129-156:

Code:
function switch_cf(){
	if($("#tempscalestate").val() == "C"){
		$("span.tscale").html("[°C]");
		$("span.tscalename").html("Celsius");
		$(".temperature").each(	function(){
			var t = $(this).val();
			$(this).val((Math.round(((t-32.0)*5.0)/0.9) / 10.0).toFixed(1));
		});
		$(".tempdiff").each(	function(){
			var t = $(this).val();
			$(this).val((Math.round(((t*5.0)+0.00001)*100)/900).toFixed(1));
		});
		$("#tempscalestate").val("F");
	} else {
		$("span.tscale").html("[°F]");
		$("span.tscalename").html("Fahrenheit");
		$(".temperature").each(	function(){
			var t = $(this).val();
			$(this).val((Math.round(((t*9.0)/0.5)+320.0) / 10.0).toFixed(1));
		});
		$(".tempdiff").each(	function(){
			var t = $(this).val();
			$(this).val((Math.round(((t*9.0)+0.00001)*100)/500).toFixed(1));
		});
		$("#tempscalestate").val("C");
	}
	calc();
}
 
I've worked on the temperature scale switching javascript function and seem to have it worked out on my end using FireFox. If you swap out the function with the one below then it should resolve the issue.

Wow! That was fast! Yes, that fixed it for hysteresis and temperature correction. Setpoint alarm is still off. I don't use an alarm, but some may. Thanks for the quick fix!
 
Well after much screwing around with solder I finally tested my DuPont wires and sure enough one was bad. All works now.

Thanks
 
Just a quick question...

I have an Arduino UNO and several STC-1000's that are the correct version for reprogramming, but I am not sure I know which wires to connect to the UNO for programming. Can someone list the pins?
 
Just a quick question...

I have an Arduino UNO and several STC-1000's that are the correct version for reprogramming, but I am not sure I know which wires to connect to the UNO for programming. Can someone list the pins?

alphaomega has the walk through on his github page it shows all of the connections.
 
Very excited to start using stc1000+ and appreciate all the hard work that has gone into this. Apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I couldn't find it so here goes...I have a hardware question. I saw earlier posts which pointed out the proper boards have the first 2 blocks closer together, the 5 pin programming points and the small black sensor. The stc1000 I have meets all those requirements and states a400_p, but has a version of 1.1. In looking at the user manual, it only states a400_p and not specifically v1.0. Could you please take a look at the board I have attached and let me know if this will work? Thanks!

20141201_210036.jpg
 
Very excited to start using stc1000+ and appreciate all the hard work that has gone into this. Apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I couldn't find it so here goes...I have a hardware question. I saw earlier posts which pointed out the proper boards have the first 2 blocks closer together, the 5 pin programming points and the small black sensor. The stc1000 I have meets all those requirements and states a400_p, but has a version of 1.1. In looking at the user manual, it only states a400_p and not specifically v1.0. Could you please take a look at the board I have attached and let me know if this will work? Thanks!


That is a flashable unit, you're good to go!


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Very excited to start using stc1000+ and appreciate all the hard work that has gone into this. Apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I couldn't find it so here goes...I have a hardware question. I saw earlier posts which pointed out the proper boards have the first 2 blocks closer together, the 5 pin programming points and the small black sensor. The stc1000 I have meets all those requirements and states a400_p, but has a version of 1.1. In looking at the user manual, it only states a400_p and not specifically v1.0. Could you please take a look at the board I have attached and let me know if this will work? Thanks!

I think you're good to go. Looking at the previous pictures posted by disney7, it looks like that board has the 5 soldering points you need, which the 1.1 version board did not. Give it a shot! If it works, you will be very happy you tried STC-1000+!!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-1000-a-464348/index12.html#post6023975
 
Thanks wilconrad and barrooze! I'll give it a shot tonight and report back. Hopefully my thrown together cable, with parts out of an original xbox I had lying around, will work!

20141201_221511.jpg
 
Success! I was a bit nervous holding the pins in case I broke contact midway through writing the firmware, but no issues. Thanks for a great product and making it so easy to implement!

20141203_221347.jpg
 
This may have been answered, but I've searched in vain...

What kind of sensor do these units use? I ordered some stuff from Auberins recently, and got a PT100/RTD probe and once I installed it and was about to connect it to my ST1000+ it suddenly hit me that it may not be compatible. A doah! moment.
I could not find anything online that clearly states what the sensor is.
 
If you googled 'stc-1000 sensor' you would have found it, but I can tell you right now that the RTD won't work. You need a 10k NTC with at beta value of 3435.
 
If you googled 'stc-1000 sensor' you would have found it, but I can tell you right now that the RTD won't work. You need a 10k NTC with at beta value of 3435.

Hmmm, I tried 4 or 5 different things, and all I came up with was NTC, and could not find anything useful on that either. Guess I was using the wrong words, or quotes, or no - or who the heck knows what. I know I got frustrated, then debated posting here, to avoid embarrassment. Oh well. Thanks.

I'm tying to pimp out my Fast Fermenter with a threaded probe instead of a thermowell and default STC-1000 sensor. I guess not.
 
Hmmm, I tried 4 or 5 different things, and all I came up with was NTC, and could not find anything useful on that either. Guess I was using the wrong words, or quotes, or no - or who the heck knows what. I know I got frustrated, then debated posting here, to avoid embarrassment. Oh well. Thanks.

I'm tying to pimp out my Fast Fermenter with a threaded probe instead of a thermowell and default STC-1000 sensor. I guess not.

Those NTCs are on eBay and quite cheap if bought by 5- or 10-piece lots, or larger. You need to put them into a housing of some sort, though.
 
Sorry, I don't want to be too harsh. You said you searched in vain what sensor it uses, which I thought you really couldn't have. What you really wanted to know was if you could use that probe, which is not really the same thing. I mean, it is a legitimate question.
You're not going to drill into your fermenter, right? I'd say go with the thermowell or taped to the side.
 
Those NTCs are on eBay and quite cheap if bought by 5- or 10-piece lots, or larger. You need to put them into a housing of some sort, though.

Don't need the NTC, I have that. I was trying to use the threaded probe I bought until I realized it might be the wrong type, and in fact is wrong.
 
Sorry, I don't want to be too harsh. You said you searched in vain what sensor it uses, which I thought you really couldn't have. What you really wanted to know was if you could use that probe, which is not really the same thing. I mean, it is a legitimate question.
You're not going to drill into your fermenter, right? I'd say go with the thermowell or taped to the side.

Not harsh at all. I really did search on google and HBT, but all I could find was NTC, and could not figure out exactly what that was, or at least not clearly. I must have used poor terms in my search. I tend to over engineer everything, and probably did here as well, trying to be specific enough to weed out the quintillion bogus hits.

The Fast Fermenter has a 1/2 NPT threaded port, and I was trying to use a screw in probe in place of the threaded brass thermowell that came with it. So now that I've got a $35 RTD probe, I can't decide which way to go. My STC-1000+ units are in use on my fermentation cabinet (this fermenter is too big to fit in that), and I have 4 non-flashable ones, and no interest in programming ones I don't have. I may just go with a 'cheap' omega PID step controller. I use them in my business (and my mash tun), and can run/program/monitor the steps from a PC USB port in a matter of seconds. A bit pricy at $110, but I'll spend a third of that on a pre-programmed STC-1000+, and still can't use the lappy to program it. That's requires more hardware and a learning curve. In spite of working with electronics since the early 70's I'm far behind 'modern' stuff being used here! The last compiler I used was for 6809's. Most of you probably never heard of them! And Fortan & assembly on my TRS-80 Model 4, but I digress.
 
Not harsh at all. I really did search on google and HBT, but all I could find was NTC, and could not figure out exactly what that was, or at least not clearly. I must have used poor terms in my search. I tend to over engineer everything, and probably did here as well, trying to be specific enough to weed out the quintillion bogus hits.

The Fast Fermenter has a 1/2 NPT threaded port, and I was trying to use a screw in probe in place of the threaded brass thermowell that came with it. So now that I've got a $35 RTD probe, I can't decide which way to go. My STC-1000+ units are in use on my fermentation cabinet (this fermenter is too big to fit in that), and I have 4 non-flashable ones, and no interest in programming ones I don't have. I may just go with a 'cheap' omega PID step controller. I use them in my business (and my mash tun), and can run/program/monitor the steps from a PC USB port in a matter of seconds. A bit pricy at $110, but I'll spend a third of that on a pre-programmed STC-1000+, and still can't use the lappy to program it. That's requires more hardware and a learning curve. In spite of working with electronics since the early 70's I'm far behind 'modern' stuff being used here! The last compiler I used was for 6809's. Most of you probably never heard of them! And Fortan & assembly on my TRS-80 Model 4, but I digress.

I paid 6 bucks for a pro mini kit .Pro mini,breadboard jumper wires and a lap top with a usb port is all you need to program a stc1000. You will have to break out the soldering iron and download a few programs but its not that difficult.
 
The probe for an STC-1000 can be purchased at DigiKey
Item: BC2647-ND, NTCLE413E2103F102L

The B value is 3435K B25/85
 

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