Stc-1000+

[FireManDan]

@FireManDan:
I'm sorry, yes you do. I didn't notice that the Arduino you got, has an ATmega168. You need an ATmega328 based one. The one you got only has half the code space, and that is not enough.

Okay, I do apologize I'm not sure how i missed that when i made the purchase, i think i was to concerned with finding a ttl/usb that had matching pins to the pro mini clone. If it's not too much trouble can you confirm if this would work. I see that you mentioned i currently only have half of the memory i need at 16, yet this uno clone states it has 32kb but 2kb is taken up by the bootloader. Worth that said I'm not sure if it will work.

 

[alphaomega]

Okay, I do apologize I'm not sure how i missed that when i made the purchase, i think i was to concerned with finding a ttl/usb that had matching pins to the pro mini clone. If it's not too much trouble can you confirm if this would work.

That *should* work (I mean, as far as I can tell). Also, the link you supplied is not working, but I fixed it in the quote above).

I see that you mentioned i currently only have half of the memory i need at 16, yet this uno clone states it has 32kb but 2kb is taken up by the bootloader. Worth that said I'm not sure if it will work.

I'm sorry, I don't follow what you are trying to say here...
The pro mini clone you indicated you had already purchased, says it has an ATmega168. That MCU has 16kB of flash. The UNO clone you linked to (sporting an ATmega328), has got 32kB of flash (0.5kB of which is used by the bootloader, which should be correct).
I think it will do just fine

Edit: To clarify, the sketch (to flash the STC) mainly consists of three parts, the logic to *do* the upload, STC-1000+ HEX data (to upload) Fahrenheit version and Celsius version. Each roughly the same size and adding up to about 31kB, pretty much filling up the flash on an ATmega328. With half the flash space, you just don't have room for control logic + just one HEX data version.

 

[FireManDan]

That *should* work (I mean, as far as I can tell). Also, the link you supplied is not working, but I fixed it in the quote above).



I'm sorry, I don't follow what you are trying to say here...
The pro mini clone you indicated you had already purchased, says it has an ATmega168. That MCU has 16kB of flash. The UNO clone you linked to (sporting an ATmega328), has got 32kB of flash (0.5kB of which is used by the bootloader, which should be correct).
I think it will do just fine

Edit: To clarify, the sketch (to flash the STC) mainly consists of three parts, the logic to *do* the upload, STC-1000+ HEX data (to upload) Fahrenheit version and Celsius version. Each roughly the same size and adding up to about 31kB, pretty much filling up the flash on an ATmega328. With half the flash space, you just don't have room for control logic + just one HEX data version.

I totally understand now and I thank you very much for clarifying that for me. I received the Arduino Uno R3 clone three days earlier than expected from Amazon. Today, I sat down to flash my stc1000 it took no time at all and everything went smooth. So once again thank you for your contribution and thank you for taking the time to help me figure this out.

 

[rosenhop]

I just flashed my STC. Seemed to go okay. I went to wire it up and it isn't getting any power. LED display is dark. I put it back on my arduino to try and re-flash. I get the following message:

STC-1000+ firmware sketch.
Copyright 2014 Mats Staffansson

Send 'd' to check for STC-1000
Enter low voltage programming mode
Leaving programming mode
Device ID is: 0x3FFF
STC-1000 NOT detected. Check wiring.

When I hook it up with out the probe it makes the howling noise...so I'm hoping there is still a chance?

 

[alphaomega]

There still hope Just try again (and again if needed).

 

[Medic_Dave]

Hello, this is my first time posting. I've been following this thread for several months (it took a long time to read all those posts) and finally made my own STC-1000+ with dual temperature probe. I have successfully flashed the 2-probe STC-1000+ code but I am not getting meaningful readings from the second temperature probe. Is it possible that I failed to properly solder the pull up resistor on the second probe? It reads 63.8 F no matter what the temperature is. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Dave

 

[mattrox]

Hello, this is my first time posting. I've been following this thread for several months (it took a long time to read all those posts) and finally made my own STC-1000+ with dual temperature probe. I have successfully flashed the 2-probe STC-1000+ code but I am not getting meaningful readings from the second temperature probe. Is it possible that I failed to properly solder the pull up resistor on the second probe? It reads 63.8 F no matter what the temperature is. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Dave

I had an issue because I got sent a 10 ohm instead of 10k ohm smd resistor.

Sounds like a resistor problem.

A photo might help.

 

[Medic_Dave]

I haven't done any testing on this. Any suggestions on how I can verify if this resistor is not soldered in correctly?

 

[mattrox]

I would be inclined to try the solder again just to be sure.

 

[gillie]

Q , is temp prob needed in wort for unit to run correctly once boil starts ?

I have been hanging the prob over the side of kettle during boil and seems to give off incorrect temps after 20min or more . But the mash stage is fine ? if its not in the kettle will the unit still run the recipe programme to the end with the hop additions etc ?

 

[gillie]

Also the link in github to purchase the stc say longer for sale ? is there another supplier link for the units ?

 

[alphaomega]

Yes, boil is independent of temp readings.

 

[alphaomega]

Try this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/dixell-temperature-controller-xmtd-digital-temperature-controller-STC-1000/1305777_32377151149.html

 

[gillie]

Cheers , thanks for that .

 

[gillie]

whats everyone running the SO - Strike output % at ? I've had it at 100% but not happy with the time taken to reach temp. should I run it at 200%?

 

[gillie]

Ht, Ho and Hd whats everyone setting these to ? I have mine at 98c,80% and 15min. Thinking 15min might be too long seems to take an age to countdown to 1st hop addition.

 

[kaljade]

whats everyone running the SO - Strike output % at ? I've had it at 100% but not happy with the time taken to reach temp. should I run it at 200%?

I have my SO @ 200%, PO @ -100%, BO @ 100%, & HO @ -150% (HT @ 95°C & Hd @ 15), these work well for my set up, but may not work well for anyone else's set up. Trial and error gets you there.

 

[gillie]

Hi Kaljade,
PO @ -100%, HO @ -150% are these meant to be minus numbers ? I tried but was very slow to work . Changed to 100% and 150% seem ok now .

 

[kaljade]

Hi Kaljade,
PO @ -100%, HO @ -150% are these meant to be minus numbers ? I tried but was very slow to work . Changed to 100% and 150% seem ok now .

Yeah, I have two heating elements on my system the "cool" relay runs the 500w element and the "heat" relay runs the 2200w element. So -100% means the 500w element is constantly on (100% of Pd setting), and -150% means the 500w is constant and the 2200w element is on for 50% of the Pd setting (my Pd is set to 2.0 so that equates to 1 second on, 1 second off).

Cheers,

Kal

 

[Mylo]

Keeping the dream (thread) alive! I just finished my first successful flashing of an STC-1000. A second one is on the way (slow boat from China). I'm looking to leverage the communications build. I have an extra Particle Photon kicking around that I have already integrated with Dallas one-wires, and publishing to an online datastore. In the next few weeks/months I plan on building a mobile app that can monitor temps from both the STC and a couple of auxiliary Dallas probes (for ambient fridge), and ambient room (garage) temps - as well as control the STC.

Although BrewPi has done great work in this realm, I think that building a solution around the STC is still a valid endeavor. Stay tuned for photos and more!


Mylo

 

[day_trippr]

I'm just amazed that three years later folks are still able to find compatible units to mod...

Cheers!

 

[Kampenken]

Good timing on seeing this thread again. I flashed mine about 2+ yrs ago and for the first time it bombed on me with it's alarm. I use set point, don't set for alarm and it went off after about one day- temps were all fine. I couldn't clear it even with unplugging. Lucky I have an extra one, but anyone had this issue? Know how to solve? I was going to research first but saw this thread pop up!

Thanks

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Have you checked the temp.probe connections?I know the alarm will sound if the probe is not connected.

 

[Kampenken]

Thanks for the suggestion, it's solved but still a bit of a mystery!

To check the probe connections I needed slack to open up the box (I built it in to chamber) and found my conical leg was on the probe's wire. Let it loose to check connections, which were fine and plugged back in. No alarm and temp was reading in the thermowell correctly (I double checked, within 0.1f). What was odd was I set the temp to call for cooling and the light didn't come on. Went thru my settings, all was as expected except I found the PB2 was set to 1, or on. I only have one probe! I set to zero and the light for cooling came on.

So, did the conical leg short my probe and cause the alarm? Did my messing around trying to kill the alarm set PB2 on? (Could having probe 2 on and none set up cause an alarm?). Why didn't the STC reset the alarm when I pushed any button as it's mfg directions indicate? Did the re flash change this setting?

All is good that ends well, so we'll see if my Oktoberfest turns out in 5-6 weeks or so. Hopefully no more pilot errors. This is a great project! I love the control!

 

[dagibson]

Hi Guys,
I hope you can assist me. I have flashed a STC-1000 with the fermentation sketch. I have 2 temp probes. I have programmed it as follows:
SP 18 C
HY 0,5
HY2 10 C
TC 0
TC2 0
SA 0
CD 10
HD 2
RP 1
PB2 1

Pr0
SP0 18
DH0 120
SP1 18
DH1 24
SP2 21
DH2 48
SP3 21
DH3 24
SP4 4
DH4 0

It seems like the time between steps is not hours but minutes. I have tested changing SP0 to 10 and if I hold the down arrow in it displays Pr0 then 0 then 1 to 10. After it gets to 10 and I push the down arrow it displays Pr0 then 1 then 0 to what is stored in DH1.
Has anybody had this problem and how can I resolve it?

Thanks
Dave

 

[Mylo]

It seems like the time between steps is not hours but minutes.

Thanks
Dave

Sounds like you flashed it with the “minute” version, instead of the “hour” version. I think there are 4 to 5 versions for diff functionality - logging (comm), hour, min, and one vessel brewing...


Mylo

 

[dagibson]

Hi Mylo,
Thanks, you are correct. I flashed the incorrect sketch. I have flashed the correct one now and it is working great.

Thanks again.

 

[stoneBriar]

GAH! It's still broken. Well at least the minute time base when downloaded from http://matsstaff.github.io/stc1000p/profile/hextabbed.html still will not change temp SP in TH mode without a power cycle. Can you please fix?

 

[crashingdutchman]

I think this is the correct thread to ask, since it is about the STC-1000.

I am thinking about buying a STC-1000 for a different purpose than what is discussed here. I don't brew beer but I work with chocolate (pralines, bonbons) and I am looking for a way to temper the chocolate I used. Tempering chocolate is an essential step for making smooth, glossy, evenly colored coating for pralines. Tempering prevents the dull grayish color and waxy texture that happens when cocoa fat separates out. Tempered chocolate produces a crisp snap when you bite into it and the final product will get a nice shine on it.

The process of tempering chocolate consist of a few steps:
1. Melt the chocolate to a temperature of 40-50 degrees (depends on type of chocolate that you use)
2. Bring down the temperature of the chocolate to 27 degrees (not all chocolate manufactures advise this step, but the brand I use suggests to do it)
3. Bring the temperature of the chocolate to 31 degrees and keep it there for as long as you work with it.

First I need to know if the STC-1000 can do this. I am ready to apply the firmware that is discussed here https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p or here https://github.com/Emile666/stc1000_stm8 (whichever is better).

In case the STC-1000 can do this, I need to think about what to do to heat the chocolate. I have thought of pumping hot and cold water through a coil around a chocolate container. Another wild idea is to use a hairdryer that can blow both hot and cold air.

Other suggestions are very welcome. Looks like a nice project for the upcoming holidays.

 

[stbernts]

I think this is the correct thread to ask, since it is about the STC-1000.

I am thinking about buying a STC-1000 for a different purpose than what is discussed here. I don't brew beer but I work with chocolate (pralines, bonbons) and I am looking for a way to temper the chocolate I used. Tempering chocolate is an essential step for making smooth, glossy, evenly colored coating for pralines. Tempering prevents the dull grayish color and waxy texture that happens when cocoa fat separates out. Tempered chocolate produces a crisp snap when you bite into it and the final product will get a nice shine on it.

The process of tempering chocolate consist of a few steps:
1. Melt the chocolate to a temperature of 40-50 degrees (depends on type of chocolate that you use)
2. Bring down the temperature of the chocolate to 27 degrees (not all chocolate manufactures advise this step, but the brand I use suggests to do it)
3. Bring the temperature of the chocolate to 31 degrees and keep it there for as long as you work with it.


First I need to know if the STC-1000 can do this. I am ready to apply the firmware that is discussed here https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p or here https://github.com/Emile666/stc1000_stm8 (whichever is better).

In case the STC-1000 can do this, I need to think about what to do to heat the chocolate. I have thought of pumping hot and cold water through a coil around a chocolate container. Another wild idea is to use a hairdryer that can blow both hot and cold air.

Other suggestions are very welcome. Looks like a nice project for the upcoming holidays.

It`s dooable, you could use the fermentation firmware to do this. Wheter it`s choklate or wort - does not matter. I would use a chiller coil to lower the temp between the steps.

I do not know how the volume you work with are - but you can control any current up to 16a with the STC-1000

I`d say a water heater in SS is suitable for your use - together with an immersion chiller.

As an example, you could use something like this:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...tml?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.63.1805d7e6E7SBg

With a Thermwell for sensor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-...hash=item2a83e319ac:m:mlR4JqCTtyhrJYGL1nPOGsA

And this one to controll temp decrease (has to be manually observed)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Sizes-St...hash=item51f72a1247:m:mcnoGs8r9fVGBBR2-VzibKA