STC-1000+ PI (the mash control firmware)

[stbernts]

Does anyone have a good config for ovbsc usage on a GrainFather.
Also, there where som pages earlier on explaning the % stuff and so on. I can not find these files anymore.

On page 12 alphaomega posted a link, this does not work anymore. I guess this is the page I read a while ago. (explaning + and - values of % setting and such)

 

[weetabixface]

take a look here

W

 

[cmcgcmcg]

Hi, I was after the same info for a Grainfather, I have been through the manual and understand most items required but was after an explanation on the following items on included markup? Also how easy is it to connect the GF pump to the STC for someone with minimal technical ability such as myself and do I leave bottom switch of GF on full from now on?? Thanks in advance and must say, great piece of kit! Cheers Callum

View attachment GF STC 1000 Questions.pdf

 

[alphaomega]

I haven't even seen a grainfather IRL, so hopefully someone else can contribute some useful info to you (like @kaljade perhaps?).
The pump is probably easies to hook up with an SSR, just like kaljade shows a few pages back in this thread.
Regarding the parameters, I can't really help with the power output parameters. You'd probably want 200% for bO. Ht, HO and Hd are a matter of preference as well.
PF depends on wether you use pump control as well or if you want to handle that manually.
cO, cP and cSP are only used when run mode (rUn) is set to Co or Ct (that is, the manual modes).

 

[kaljade]

I haven't even seen a grainfather IRL, so hopefully someone else can contribute some useful info to you (like @kaljade perhaps?).
The pump is probably easies to hook up with an SSR, just like kaljade shows a few pages back in this thread.
Regarding the parameters, I can't really help with the power output parameters. You'd probably want 200% for bO. Ht, HO and Hd are a matter of preference as well.
PF depends on wether you use pump control as well or if you want to handle that manually.
cO, cP and cSP are only used when run mode (rUn) is set to Co or Ct (that is, the manual modes).

Hi Mats, happy to contribute back where I can!

So, first of all I don't use the config page as I load my own LUT, I also have a 2200W immersion heater element in the side of mine to utilise the dual element feature of the OVBSC firmware, therefore my output settings will differ from a single element setup.

I can't exactly remember what all my settings are off hand but I brew every weekend so I can confirm on Sunday. What I do know is bO = 200%, PO = -100% (I have the Grainfather element selector permanently on 'Mash' and connected to the 'Cooling' output of STC-1000+), SO and HO I think are both set to 150% (but will confirm), Hd I have set to 15 mins, Ht I have set a little lower than normal due to our altitude here but just set it a few degrees below your boiling point as recommended, Pd I have set to 2.0 seconds, and cP = 0.

I have no idea what my APF and PF flags are off hand but these are definitely personal preferences so for you to decide.

For anyone that is interested here's my Grainfather Setup and I'm happy to supply my .ino file(s) if anyone wants them.

@alphaomega with the continued popularity of the STC-1000+ on the Grainfather perhaps a single element version that uses the 'Cooling' relay for pump control might be a good intro version for people reluctant to modify their expensive new toy (unlike myself )?

Cheers,

Kal

 

[kaljade]

Hi Mats,

Here's my new custom control box for my Grainfather:



I'll finally get around to posting a video on YouTube of it in action, now that life has settled down a bit (moved town, getting kids into new schools, etc), but here's an action shot to give you a sneak preview:



Cheers,

Kal

 

[Arctic]

anyone know where to get one of the stc a400 p controllers need for this just paid $20 @ ucontrol and they sent a clone ( OR "UPDATED" version). this project looks so promising too. I would prefer a 230 volt version but can adapt a 110 after all the transformer out of the clone must be good for something lol

 

[bjarneo]

So, I also thought I'd have a go at this sweet thingy.

Flashed the firmware and then stumbled upon the wiki article on how to get the terminals to feed 12V instead of 240V, by desoldering the relays and bridge the connections as shown in the illustration photo.

To test it, I wired it up and connected a 12V pump to the cooler output terminals. **** lit up and I think it's safe to say that the terminals 7&8 will no longer function. Hopefully, the same won't happen when I try connecting the SSR to the heating terminals.

It's safe to say that I'm not exactly The Master Solderer ...

Luckily, I bought two of the A400_P. So, maybe I just should put a 12V Switching PSU adapter in between the STC-1000 and the SSR in stead of short circuiting in my poor attempts to solder the PCB board ...

 

[alphaomega]

Hei @bjarneo !

Maybe you shorted it, but even if not, I really don't think the STC can handle the current draw from a pump directly.

 

[bjarneo]

Hei @bjarneo !

Maybe you shorted it, but even if not, I really don't think the STC can handle the current draw from a pump directly.

Aha! Oh well, I'll check it out when those long awaited Swithing PSU adapters arrives from China.

So a 12V 8W pump is too hot to handle? Hehe, I'm not exactly an electrician, but I thought that it could do that, given the current to the terminals are about 14V.

Cheers for great work, alpha!

 

[alphaomega]

No, that is way to much. A switching PSU won't do you much good either, unless you also have something to actually *drive* the load.
An SSR will be fine to drive directly though.

 

[bjarneo]

No, that is way to much. A switching PSU won't do you much good either, unless you also have something to actually *drive* the load.
An SSR will be fine to drive directly though.

Aha, right. But shouldn't the current be stepped down a bit? As the SSR is controlled with 3-32V input? Or could i just power the SSR with the "normal" output from the relays on the STC, and use the switching PSU between the SSR and the 12V pump?

(feeling n00b)

 

[alphaomega]

@bjarneo:
Ok. For pump control, the 'third' terminal output (next to the temperature probe inputs) is used, not the relay outputs. This is also just a control signal, so you need something to 'amplify' the signal or 'drive' the pump. The 8A LED dimmers are great for this and very cheap. Have a look at the documentation. You can use a switching PSU to power the dimmer and pump.

If the relays are removed and bridged, you'll have a 12V control signal on the output terminals. It can't supply very much current though. SSR's are designed to accept a pretty wide range voltage on the input (control), 3-32V in your case. Internally it probably uses a zener diode and resistors to limit voltage and current to the input optocoupler, so you don't need to anything else than make sure the input signal is in the specified range.

Finally, you probably can't use the SSR to drive the pump at all, as a 'normal' SSR can only switch AC.

As a gentle reminder, working with mains can be dangerous. Electronics is fun and it's good that you want to learn, but asking questions on forums only gets you 'so far'. If you're not confident in doing this yourself, I'd recommend asking local forums, friends, relatives and such for someone with a bit more experience for some 'hands on' assistance.

 

[JayberQue]

digging up this old thread but just got a grandfather connect and want to build an OBVSC (because i can't help myself). I don't want to automate the pump so i will leave that to its own manual switch. Will I need and SSR between the STC and the heating element?

 

[stbernts]

digging up this old thread but just got a grandfather connect and want to build an OBVSC (because i can't help myself). I don't want to automate the pump so i will leave that to its own manual switch. Will I need and SSR between the STC and the heating element?

No, the Triac (SSR eqvivalent) is integrated in the Connect - so it`s done by Hysteris in STC OBVSV firmware.