Spike CF10 - Questions

[tdibratt]

I just got my new shiny CF10. Excited about it.

I do have some questions.

1. Notice my valve on the transfer port. Most pics I see have them sittingg horizontal with the lever to the right and I assume you pull it forward to open. In my case the only way to get it on so I open by pulling forward but orients on the left. Not a big deal but was this a change to the design? Reversing the mounting forces it to have to swing back towards the unit to open it..

2. I am so nervous about stability. With the leg extensions and casters even with the bottom plate, I am concerned about it tipping. I wanted the extensions since I want to be able to put the cip ball in and clean it while it recirculates and dumps into a bucket out the bottom dump port. Hence the height.. Now wondering if I need to change my thoughts..

 

[CodeSection]

Hopefully, I can help answer.....

1. Regardless how the valves are oriented, when the handle is turned so that it is inline with the port, the valve will be in the full open position.

2. Consider taking off all the items on the bottom port and reassemble in this order: 90 degree elbow, then valve. That will make the CF10 less top heavy. You will still need to be careful moving it.

Then, when you want to dump the trub, add the sightglass with a TC cap on the end. Open valve and allow trub to gradually flow into sightglass. Close valve, remove sightglass and harvest yeast or dump. Repeat process if you want.

I'm not sure why you want or need another 90 degree elbow on the end as like you show in your picture.

 

[tll77]

The valve handles on my CF10 turn both directions. When you pull the handle forward to open just keep going that direction until its closed and now your handles. now your handle is to the right.

I also found the CF10 to be a little top heavy, even without the leg extensions. I built a dolly that its mounted on with four casters and a slightly larger footprint. It is quite stable now. I will post a pic later after I get home.

 

[tdibratt]

Hopefully, I can help answer.....

1. Regardless how the valves are oriented, when the handle is turned so that it is inline with the port, the valve will be in the full open position.

2. Consider taking off all the items on the bottom port and reassemble in this order: 90 degree elbow, then valve. That will make the CF10 less top heavy. You will still need to be careful moving it.

Then, when you want to dump the trub, add the sightglass with a TC cap on the end. Open valve and allow trub to gradually flow into sightglass. Close valve, remove sightglass and harvest yeast or dump. Repeat process if you want.

I'm not sure why you want or need another 90 degree elbow on the end as like you show in your picture.

Yes, I knew that they are open when positioned in parallel with the port. Was just curious to orientation. I just assembled it all, my intent with the 90 elbow is really only to put it on when I clean the unit. I plan on CIP ball in the top and open down at the bottom dumping into a bucket with PSW and recirculating back to the top.

 

[tdibratt]

The valve handles on my CF10 turn both directions. When you pull the handle forward to open just keep going that direction until its closed and now your handles. now your handle is to the right.

I also found the CF10 to be a little top heavy, even without the leg extensions. I built a dolly that its mounted on with four casters and a slightly larger footprint. It is quite stable now. I will post a pic later after I get home.

Indeed! Funny I tried a few times and looked like they only went so far. As for the base, I had the exact same idea. Was going to build a 30x30 base with casters and remove the casters from the legs and then mount the unit on the new base with bolts that thread up through the base into the legs. Would love to see your build. thx

 

[tll77]

Mine is much like what you describe.
The legs of the cf10 are bolted to the dolly. It's roughly 15 x 18. It's longer to the front to compensate for the extra weight of accessories.

 

[TxBigHops]

Hopefully, I can help answer.....

1. Regardless how the valves are oriented, when the handle is turned so that it is inline with the port, the valve will be in the full open position.

2. Consider taking off all the items on the bottom port and reassemble in this order: 90 degree elbow, then valve. That will make the CF10 less top heavy. You will still need to be careful moving it.

Then, when you want to dump the trub, add the sightglass with a TC cap on the end. Open valve and allow trub to gradually flow into sightglass. Close valve, remove sightglass and harvest yeast or dump. Repeat process if you want.

I'm not sure why you want or need another 90 degree elbow on the end as like you show in your picture.

The valve handles on my CF10 turn both directions. When you pull the handle forward to open just keep going that direction until its closed and now your handles. now your handle is to the right.

I also found the CF10 to be a little top heavy, even without the leg extensions. I built a dolly that its mounted on with four casters and a slightly larger footprint. It is quite stable now. I will post a pic later after I get home.

Like tll77, I too had read about the tippiness of the fermenter with the leg extensions, so I passed and chose to buil my own. I went old school wood 2x construction. I wanted to get it up a ways and wanted the stability of a wider footprint. I've atached a photo of what I built. Not as clean as tll77's but functional and cheap.

 

[RevKev]

Mine is much like what you describe.
The legs of the cf10 are bolted to the dolly. It's roughly 15 x 18. It's longer to the front to compensate for the extra weight of accessories.
View attachment 590329 View attachment 590330

That is elegant as flocc... My ss unitank is the same. I feel like all three legged tanks are prone. My 14gal chronical has no issue, major design flaw all around on all tanks

 

[tdibratt]

Built my base. What an improvement

 

[tdibratt]

Hey folks, I need to pop off my chilling lines on the T100 bundle of of the stainless chiller and reverse them..Must have them backwards. How do they pop off? What's the trick to have the quick 90 disconnect pop off

thx