Sparge arm

[G. Cretin]

I'm not really the kind of guy that likes to buy stuff I know I can make myself.
So what I'd like to know is has anyone here built thier own sparge setup, how does it work , and what they would change about it? Currently I use a plastic bucket with a bunch of hole drilled in it suspended an inch over the grain bed it works great but it's time for an upgrade.Thanx in advance

 

[Teedocious]

If it works great I'm not sure why its time for an upgrade... but I guess that's how you roll.

I made mine out of cpvc - it is basically a "H" that is capped on the ends and has a bunch of holes drilled in it. It is sized to fit in the cooler I use, and I hang it to the right height with coat hangers bent to where I need it - takes about 10 seconds to hang it proper. I have a hole drilled in the top at the intersection of the H where I just run my tubing directly into the arm. I also drilled a hole in the lid to the cooler so the tubing can run through with the lid closed.

I doesn't rotate or do backflips... but I get about 85% efficientcy on average, so I guess it works.

Oh, and it cost about $4 to make.

 

[Spyk'd]

If it works great I'm not sure why its time for an upgrade... but I guess that's how you roll.

I made mine out of cpvc - it is basically a "H" that is capped on the ends and has a bunch of holes drilled in it. It is sized to fit in the cooler I use, and I hang it to the right height with coat hangers bent to where I need it - takes about 10 seconds to hang it proper. I have a hole drilled in the top at the intersection of the H where I just run my tubing directly into the arm. I also drilled a hole in the lid to the cooler so the tubing can run through with the lid closed.

I doesn't rotate or do backflips... but I get about 85% efficientcy on average, so I guess it works.

Oh, and it cost about $4 to make.

Okay, I think I need you to clarify your statements a bit for the viewing pleasure of those to come with that efficiency claim...


Do you insulate your mash/lauter tun?
What is the temp of your sparge?
How long is your sparge?


This will make things easier...thanks!

 

[G. Cretin]

It's time for an up grade because I have to stand on a chair with a pitcher to sparge and I would like to automate this step so I can do other thinks like drink beer while this is happening.:cross: I also get around 85% eff. when I run the numbers through brew software this of course is open to interpritation. Honestly though I don't watch efficency or the hydrometer readings to much because I'm a perfectionist at work and brewing is a way for me to slow down relax and enjoy life I don't want to obbsess about numbers when I'm home with my wife.

 

[Dude]

After I bought my Listermann sparge arm I wanted to kick myself in the teeth for not making it myself. It could be done quite easily with some CPVC and some copper, and a tiny bit of soldering.

Then again, for 15 bucks, might as well just buy one. Or just batch sparge.

 

[Axegod]

I used a copper manifold (my first attempt at one) that is turned upside down.
Like Teddecious it is held in place in a makeshift fashion....as long as it slowly delivers water without disturbing the grainbed, it works for me. I am not looking for the sprinkling action - I am just looking to deliver the water to raise the level of the water so the sparge doesnt get stuck. I used it once only, but it seems like it works fine.

 

[chillHayze]

...Or just batch sparge....

'Nuff said.

 

[EdWort]

I friend of mine built his own "H" shaped sparger using some copper elbows and pipe.

It works great as it is gravity fed and it's throttled down to match the output to the kettle.

 

[Teedocious]

Okay, I think I need you to clarify your statements a bit for the viewing pleasure of those to come with that efficiency claim...


Do you insulate your mash/lauter tun?
What is the temp of your sparge?
How long is your sparge?


This will make things easier...thanks!

I mash in a cooler - so additional insulation really isn't necessary.
I mash out at 170F & sparge with same.
On 5 Gal batches I try to sparge for about 45 minutes. (give or take 5)
Promash is calculating my efficiencies based on default values. I do not know the exact potential yield for each variety of grain I buy from my LHBS, but I use the Promash defaults as a baseline to check my consistency (real world efficiency might now be 85%, but it is the best guess I can come up with).

That said - I don't really worry about efficiency that much. I'd be happy at 70%, as long as I could hit 70% every time. It's not like the extra $3 for my grain bill at a lower efficiency would kill me. I'm moving up to 10gal batches soon w/a new setup - maybe it'll be efficient, maybe not - whatever, as long as its consistent.

 

[Teedocious]

It's time for an up grade because I have to stand on a chair with a pitcher to sparge and I would like to automate this step so I can do other thinks like drink beer while this is happening.:cross: I also get around 85% eff. when I run the numbers through brew software this of course is open to interpritation. Honestly though I don't watch efficency or the hydrometer readings to much because I'm a perfectionist at work and brewing is a way for me to slow down relax and enjoy life I don't want to obbsess about numbers when I'm home with my wife.

Do you have a pump? If not, a sparge arm isn't going to help if you have an elevation problem.

If you have a pump, I would recommend a float switch - when the water level in your tun reaches a set low point, the pump kicks on & refills to a set high water point (water to the mash through your new sparge arm - or onto your tin foil, either is fine).

If your problem is that you don't want to hold the pitcher of sparge water in your hand but can hang out to watch the sparge - an arm will be fine. They are so simple to make and do such a simple job that if you just think it out you'll be fine. Just don't get super carried away for something so simple.

 

[Spyk'd]

I mash in a cooler - so additional insulation really isn't necessary.
I mash out at 170F & sparge with same.
On 5 Gal batches I try to sparge for about 45 minutes. (give or take 5)
Promash is calculating my efficiencies based on default values. I do not know the exact potential yield for each variety of grain I buy from my LHBS, but I use the Promash defaults as a baseline to check my consistency (real world efficiency might now be 85%, but it is the best guess I can come up with).

That said - I don't really worry about efficiency that much. I'd be happy at 70%, as long as I could hit 70% every time. It's not like the extra $3 for my grain bill at a lower efficiency would kill me. I'm moving up to 10gal batches soon w/a new setup - maybe it'll be efficient, maybe not - whatever, as long as its consistent.

This makes more sense now, thanks!