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voltron6

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Im currently brewing using Mr beer. I want to start using other ingredient kits but my LHBS only carries 5 gallon batches. How would I adjust for brewing with my 2 gallon setup? Also how would I preserve any leftover extract?
 
Im currently brewing using Mr beer. I want to start using other ingredient kits but my LHBS only carries 5 gallon batches. How would I adjust for brewing with my 2 gallon setup? Also how would I preserve any leftover extract?

I use 2 gallon buckets to brew batches around 1.25-1.5 gallons. You can divide a 5 gallon kit by 4 to get the right amounts. But, if you buy a 5 gallon kit, you're basically committing to brewing the same beer 4 times.

With that in mind, I'd either recommend: a) getting a small batch kit from another source, or b) buying ingredients individually based on a recipe.

Personally, I brew all grain, using the BIAB method. It's pretty simple for small batches and I can still do it on my stove top using a 4 gal stock pot. You can take any 5 gallon all grain recipe from this site or anywhere else, divide the amounts by 4, and then you don't need to worry about kits.

If you're doing extract, I'd still recommend buying ingredients. You can store extra DME in ziploc bags (I always have some extra DME on hand for starters, bumping up gravity, etc). Haven't had to deal with storing extra LME, but if it comes in a resealable container, I'd just keep it in the same container.
 
I agree with BGBC about buying your own ingredients. I started with Mr. Beer, went on to buying my own ingredients (I'm still extract brewing), and just recently bought my first 5-gallon fermenter. To scale down the standard 5 gallon recipes just multiply everything by 0.4. Rounding off doesn't hurt. This is cooking, not rocket science.

One tip I read here and have used for preserving leftover LME is to pour just a little bit of vodka on top to keep the badness out, put the cap back on, and store it in the refrigerator. It'll last for a fair amount of time, but you should plan on using it in the not-so-distant future. It is a food product containing no preservatives, after all.

Leftover DME is much more stable. Put it in a ziplock bag and store it in the fridge, too. Dry yeast will last for a while, but not all that long. Buy it when you need it and store it in the fridge, then take it out an hour or two before brewing. You can either split the packets in half for your Mr. Beer or just pitch the whole thing. Be sure to reseal the packet tightly if you split it. You can fold the packet over and use Scotch tape. Rehydrating dry yeast first works really well for me. Other people just sprinkle it dry.

Hops should be tightly sealed in plastic bags, double bagged, and stored in the freezer. They have the shortest shelf life of any of the ingredients. Don't buy too much at once.
 
Thanks for all the tips! My mom just gave my wife and I a giant champaigne bottle that is about 1&a half gallons. Would this make a suitable 1 gallon fermenter?
 
Thanks for all the tips! My mom just gave my wife and I a giant champaigne bottle that is about 1&a half gallons. Would this make a suitable 1 gallon fermenter?

I don't know why not. You'd just need a rubber stopper with a hole in it that fits the opening and an airlock, maybe $2 worth of equipment. I'm not sure how easy it would be to clean after, but the 1 gallon jugs I use are pretty easy. I've seen a lot of people using large wine jugs as fermenters.
 
Ive already got a couple airlock so I just need a rubber stopper. Beats the hell out of explaining paying for a new fermenter
 
Small batch adjustments are best handled in Beersmith. Sure you can divide and do the math yourself but by setting up an equipment profile in Beersmith and then scaling down your recipe you'll be sure you are accounting for the essentials. Things such as boil off rate, loss to trub and chiller, fermentation and transfer losses, etc. You'll know by using the software and brewing a few times on your system how many bottles of beer you'll end up with. You should certainly know how to do calculations by hand and it's useful to check those against any software when learning how to use it. I scale recipes down frequently, this method works well.
 
Small batch adjustments are best handled in Beersmith. Sure you can divide and do the math yourself but by setting up an equipment profile in Beersmith and then scaling down your recipe you'll be sure you are accounting for the essentials. Things such as boil off rate, loss to trub and chiller, fermentation and transfer losses, etc. You'll know by using the software and brewing a few times on your system how many bottles of beer you'll end up with. You should certainly know how to do calculations by hand and it's useful to check those against any software when learning how to use it. I scale recipes down frequently, this method works well.

Very sound advice. BeerSmith works well once you have taken the time to customize it for your process/results. It works really well for scaling down (or up) recipes that you can find here on HBT or from any other source. BeerSmith is also invaluable for making adjustments for available grains andhops and to design your own recipes.
 
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