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Pretty basic, and I haven't built the temp controller into a job box yet, but everything works. I keep the liquid fermentables and hops in the freezer section for now.





I know I only have a gallon batch of apple cider fermenting right now, but I wanted to make sure everything worked before I made another batch of anything, as it is too hot in my basement to ferment anything without temperature control except maybe red wine. (Yes, I have a 1 gallon batch of that fermenting right now, too...)
 
Keezer:

  • Stained and sealed red oak collar with insulation backing
  • 3 Perlick 630 SS taps
  • Bottle opener
  • 14" stainless drip tray
  • InkBird temp controller (Fahrenheit)
  • 10lb C02 tank on the hump
  • Primary regulator
  • Dual secondary regulator
  • 3-way manifold (to be installed)

Currently only one beer on tap, a watermelon wheat, but that will change when the beer in the ferm chamber in the garage finish up in a week or so. Plenty of room between the 3 kegs to store bottles. :mug:

Front.jpg


Interior.jpg


Taps.jpg
 
I have considered the door, but I'd need to carve out a plastic divider that runs vertically the whole height of the door. The space below the wooden platform is almost 7" now, and I could safely raise it a couple more inches, but after staring at the fridge today I think I'm going to try mounting it vertically on the shelf rail that's on the back of the fridge first.
 
I'm looking for some different eyes on a problem I'm having. I can fit 4 cornys and a 20# cylinder in this fridge, but I'm wondering where to put the 4 body secondary regulator. It's 15" long by 7" tall. I don't want to drill through the fridge and put the co2 outside. Where would you mount the secondary?

http://www.kegconnection.com/4-body-secondary-regulator-choose-taprite-or-chudnow/

Pull your wooden platform out and attach a piece of plywood on one side so it extends up as high as it will go before it hits the bottom of the freezer compartment. Then mount your regulator assy at the top of the plywood above the kegs.
 
I also vote for mounting it off the back using plywood. Whether extending it, or just doing a simple 2-leg bracket for it. That way your gas lines can be short and out of the way, screw having them moving and in the door. Greater chance of leaks etc if your gas quick-connects can move and get tweaked.
 
I also vote for mounting it off the back using plywood. Whether extending it, or just doing a simple 2-leg bracket for it. That way your gas lines can be short and out of the way, screw having them moving and in the door. Greater chance of leaks etc if your gas quick-connects can move and get tweaked.

Agreed, I think the door is out, I'm already fighting 4 Bev Seal Ultra lines when I open/close the door.
 
Don't discount putting the CO2 cylinder on the outside. It stays warm that way, and you can mount an external Co2 line for purging kegs, and running your beer gun (or counter pressure filler). Just takes a small hole, and on a newer fridge without coolant lines in the walls, its a piece of cake.
 
Keezer:

  • Stained and sealed red oak collar with insulation backing
  • 3 Perlick 630 SS taps
  • Bottle opener
  • 14" stainless drip tray
  • InkBird temp controller (Fahrenheit)
  • 10lb C02 tank on the hump
  • Primary regulator
  • Dual secondary regulator
  • 3-way manifold (to be installed)

I like what you've done with the internal regulator. I'll have to steal that idea when/if I get around to upgrading my chest freezer. Since I had to replace the original one haven't had time to build a collar for the new one.
 
With the monitor on top, you planning on running RaspberryPints?

No. Just a TV to watch the games and be close to the beer..... It is now on the wall. SWMBO allowed me to turn the extra room into a tap room. She is into home brew also.:mug:
 
I'm looking for some different eyes on a problem I'm having. I can fit 4 cornys and a 20# cylinder in this fridge, but I'm wondering where to put the 4 body secondary regulator. It's 15" long by 7" tall. I don't want to drill through the fridge and put the co2 outside. Where would you mount the secondary?

http://www.kegconnection.com/4-body-secondary-regulator-choose-taprite-or-chudnow/


I used the tracks at the back of the fridge ( the ones that originally held the shelves ) and attached an aluminum plate to them, then attached the regulators to that. No holes in the walls that way.
 
No. Just a TV to watch the games and be close to the beer..... It is now on the wall. SWMBO allowed me to turn the extra room into a tap room. She is into home brew also.:mug:

Lucky. My wife isn't into the drinking at all but she tolerates my hobby. Actually......maybe I'm the lucky one as I don't have to share my beer!!!:ban:
 
I used the tracks at the back of the fridge ( the ones that originally held the shelves ) and attached an aluminum plate to them, then attached the regulators to that. No holes in the walls that way.

That's what I ended up doing, I got some nylon spacers from Home Depot and bolted it directly to the shelf rail.

image.jpg
 
Lucky. My wife isn't into the drinking at all but she tolerates my hobby. Actually......maybe I'm the lucky one as I don't have to share my beer!!!:ban:

My wife was not into it, till I brought her to a tasting. Now she is hooked on Stouts and Dubbels.:mug:
 
Finally got trough all the posts on this thread. I finished my kegerator last week and it's awesome! I scored an awesome retro fridge on CL for $125 and a few weeks (and beers) later, behold!

http://imgur.com/a/pduIQ

Now to get rid of the excessive head it likes to dispense. Can't for the life of me figure out where the problem lay. Temperature is right, and the beer line is above the level of beer in the keg. I didn't sanitize it between install and tapping, so I'm hoping that's the cause. We'll see, though.
 
StinkyEttin, have you read the threads on balancing your system? If your beer line isnt long enough to slow the beer (based on the pressure you are serving at) it will create massive foam on each pour.

Also, if your faucets are warm, the first pour will pretty much always come out foamy.
 
Weird, if I haven't poured in a few days the first pour usually has less head then the second or so on. I figured it was just cause the beer in the line doesn't have co2 directly on it like the beer in the keg.
 
Best wedding gift ever. By a long shot.

Yep, I figure that he is not interested in all of the crystal, fine china, linens, etc. that his wife can't wait to unwrap. This way, we can drink freshly brewed beer while helping her sort through all of the crap :)
 
I like that regulator set up. What did you use. Would like to copy this for my kegerator.

The regulator is a Taprite 4 body secondary, it's attached to the shelf rail with 5/16 x 1 1/2" bolts that go through 1" nylon spacers. I used lock washers to make sure it stays tight.
 
StinkyEttin, have you read the threads on balancing your system? If your beer line isnt long enough to slow the beer (based on the pressure you are serving at) it will create massive foam on each pour.

Also, if your faucets are warm, the first pour will pretty much always come out foamy.

Figured out the problem. I had the pressure dialed up too high and was force carbing the beer. I ramped down the PSI to 5 and am good to go.
 
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