• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Scaling back a 5 gallon recipe

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fbrews

Active Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
3rd brew. I would like to scale this recipe back to a 2 gallon brew. I know there are some non-proportional qualities in scaling but would i simple divide by 5 then multiply by 2 for a 2 gallon target ferment. I plugged it into Brewers friend to get ready for the boil.

Reasons for scale down

-Its only me drinking it (if its drinkable)
-All my equipment from start to finish can only handle this volume (currently about to bottle another batch)
-wanted to use (un used) yeast for another recipe (I have a scale that measures in small amounts)

Here is the recipe I bought

http://www.love2brew.com/Irish-Stout-Extract-Kit-p/sbk017a.htmto scale

Thanks for your opinions and input
 
Just scale everythign by 2/5. Though doing a 2.5 gal would probably be easiest. The only thign that I know that isnt entirely proportional is hops since utilization has partly to do with water volume. So if you have 1 oz in 5 gal and 2/5 oz in 2 gal, you wont have exactly the same IBUs, but itll be close. This is a stout anyway so who carees

How long are you waiting between these batches and how are you storing the yeast? I think you'd be better off making a small starter and ranching the yeast from that to store for next time. Youll have much more and healthier yeast for both brews.

If you are just getting dry yeast. Definitely just buy another packet. Once those are opened, they are not meant to be saved. Its only a few bucks vs a nasty batch
 
When you're dealing with batch sizes on the typical homebrew scale, the hop utilization scaling doesn't really make much difference - that's mainly when going up to commercial scale.

You will need to take these into account your boiloff rate and losses in the mash tun, kettle, and fermenter. I do a mix of 5- and 10-gallon batches on the same system, and my boiloff rate is about 1 gallon/hour, and I lose about 2 quarts to trub in the kettle. When I do a 10-gallon batch I split it into 2 5-gallon fermenters, so I lose about the same amount to trub/yeast from each. So for a 5-gallon batch I target 6 gallons (7.25 preboil, assuming 60-minute boil), and for a 10-gallon batch I target 11.5 gallons (12.75 preboil).

If you want to get 2 gallons out of your brew, I'd suggest just cutting the recipe in half and targeting 2.5 gallons. It makes the math simpler anyway. :ban:
 
Just scale everythign by 2/5. Though doing a 2.5 gal would probably be easiest. The only thign that I know that isnt entirely proportional is hops since utilization has partly to do with water volume. So if you have 1 oz in 5 gal and 2/5 oz in 2 gal, you wont have exactly the same IBUs, but itll be close. This is a stout anyway so who carees

How long are you waiting between these batches and how are you storing the yeast? I think you'd be better off making a small starter and ranching the yeast from that to store for next time. Youll have much more and healthier yeast for both brews.

If you are just getting dry yeast. Definitely just buy another packet. Once those are opened, they are not meant to be saved. Its only a few bucks vs a nasty batch

About 3 weeks. It Safale so I shouldn't open it, then use the rest in 3 weeks?
I have NO home brews close all my purchases are via internet. I would have to buy over the internet. Although cheap (for yeast) obviously not ideal.

Thanks
 
When you're dealing with batch sizes on the typical homebrew scale, the hop utilization scaling doesn't really make much difference - that's mainly when going up to commercial scale.

You will need to take these into account your boiloff rate and losses in the mash tun, kettle, and fermenter. I do a mix of 5- and 10-gallon batches on the same system, and my boiloff rate is about 1 gallon/hour, and I lose about 2 quarts to trub in the kettle. When I do a 10-gallon batch I split it into 2 5-gallon fermenters, so I lose about the same amount to trub/yeast from each. So for a 5-gallon batch I target 6 gallons (7.25 preboil, assuming 60-minute boil), and for a 10-gallon batch I target 11.5 gallons (12.75 preboil).

If you want to get 2 gallons out of your brew, I'd suggest just cutting the recipe in half and targeting 2.5 gallons. It makes the math simpler anyway. :ban:

Thanks I will.
 
About 3 weeks. It Safale so I shouldn't open it, then use the rest in 3 weeks?
I have NO home brews close all my purchases are via internet. I would have to buy over the internet. Although cheap (for yeast) obviously not ideal.

Thanks

Yeah, I cant get any liquid yeasts at the stores near me and have very limited selection on other stuff. basically common hops, DME, and various equipment and nutrients.

Just buy another pack and use 1 each for the brews. You dont need to worry about overpitching with anything this small. Or if you dont want to make another order or something, you can make a starter from it and start keeping a running culture in your fridge to use. Thats how I started moving from dry yeasts. Ordering 1 or 2 liquid ones I was interested in and just culturing them up for starters. Now I have like 15 or so strains and it takes up ym whole veggie drawer...
 
Yeah, I cant get any liquid yeasts at the stores near me and have very limited selection on other stuff. basically common hops, DME, and various equipment and nutrients.

Just buy another pack and use 1 each for the brews. You dont need to worry about overpitching with anything this small. Or if you dont want to make another order or something, you can make a starter from it and start keeping a running culture in your fridge to use. Thats how I started moving from dry yeasts. Ordering 1 or 2 liquid ones I was interested in and just culturing them up for starters. Now I have like 15 or so strains and it takes up ym whole veggie drawer...

Thanks. I will take the advise and use all the yeast.

I have read How to brew. Now Im thinking. What if i used the whole kit with only 2.5 preboil and 2 gal target. ABV will about double. Flavor composition that far off? Because im throwing the recipe out of balance by not offsetting the alcohol increase?
 
Hmm, that's an interesting idea.

You might not want to use all the roasted barley - maybe cut it back to only 3/4, since there's already some other dark grains in the Dark LME. You may also run into fermentability problems using extract in a batch with 1.088 gravity. An ounce of Magnum and a single would certainly be plenty, though - you'd be looking at around 100 IBUs depending on the AA% of your magnum.

It doesn't look crazy, though; you'd have an Imperial Stout for sure.
 
Yeah, I think you;d be better off just going with the regular idea. Doubling up an entire session strength beer into a imperial may work OK for stouts, but with most other styles, the body would be way out of whack. Most DIPAs and big Belgianss use a good amount of simple sugars to bump up the ABV. But I mean if you want a big roasty imperial stout, go for it. its homebrewing after all. I've got a recipe for a Coffee Chocolate Oatmeal Maple breakfast stout if you want...
 
Yeah, I think you;d be better off just going with the regular idea. Doubling up an entire session strength beer into a imperial may work OK for stouts, but with most other styles, the body would be way out of whack. Most DIPAs and big Belgianss use a good amount of simple sugars to bump up the ABV. But I mean if you want a big roasty imperial stout, go for it. its homebrewing after all. I've got a recipe for a Coffee Chocolate Oatmeal Maple breakfast stout if you want...

Sure let me know how to get it.
 
Hmm, that's an interesting idea.

You might not want to use all the roasted barley - maybe cut it back to only 3/4, since there's already some other dark grains in the Dark LME. You may also run into fermentability problems using extract in a batch with 1.088 gravity. An ounce of Magnum and a single would certainly be plenty, though - you'd be looking at around 100 IBUs depending on the AA% of your magnum.

It doesn't look crazy, though; you'd have an Imperial Stout for sure.

Brewed it today with your recommendation of reduction in barley.
OG came in at 1.11
 
I ran the yeast numbers with this brew it showed I was short. I used 1 packet of safale04, re hydrated it, and pitched at 70 degrees. I hit the target of 2 gal wort and had a OG of 1.11. I have been keeping ferment ambient consistently at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Not taking into real world results, what will ABV will this produce?
 
Depends on your FG, really... Could be anywhere from 9-13%.

Thanks, I have moved the vessel into the fridge set at 55 F. I took a reading today and it was already at 1.052. I want to slow the ferment. If I leave it in the fridge for the remainder of 3 weeks will this slow fermentation?
 
Also, don't worry if it's going fast. S04 is a beast - it will go from OG 1.050 to FG 1.012 in 3 days.

Am I at 7.61 ABV. I entered the recipe in wrong and selected liquid instead of dry. I used dry malt extract. When I redid the recipe in brewers friend, my target was supposed to be 8.61. I will over shoot this? I will probably push the alcohol content near unpleasant? Please let me know the course I should probably take.
 
J...If you are just getting dry yeast. Definitely just buy another packet. Once those are opened, they are not meant to be saved. Its only a few bucks vs a nasty batch
Not true at all.

Dry yeast keeps just fine in the freezer - I routinely use a half packet of dry yeast and then put it in a zip lock, squeeze the air out, and put it in the fridge. I've used yeast like this that's been in for up to a month with no issues at all and they take right off.

I've got a packet that's been open and stored for over 6mos, and I'll probably use it some time this winter. If it doesn't work, no biggie - but I'll bet you it takes off just fine.

Dry yeast is far more hearty than it's liquid counterpart.
 
+1. When I make 1 gallon batches, I often keep a half pack of dry yeast in my fridge for a couple weeks and have never had an issue. If it is a concern for you, however, consider doing two brews back to back. Depending on your process, you may be able to start the second brew during the first one (i.e. Mash in while the first one is boiling). Plus, you will be able to allow your beers to condition a bit since you will have more available to drink (but still have a selection).
 
I've only done this once but I had very good success scaling an extract recipe down from 5 gallons to half a gallon. I just divided everything by ten. The beer, a pale ale with lots of cascade hops, turned out very good. I only needed 1.2 g of dry yeast but my scale is not that accurate so I looked up the density of dry yeast. 1/2 tsp of active dry yeast weighs 1.5 g. I just eyeballed it from there.
I taped the yeast packet shut and stored it in the fridge.
A month later I brewed another half gallon batch with a different recipe but the same yeast, Nottingham. I used 3/4 tsp yeast, thinking it would be less viable, and I had foam oozing out the airlock 24 hours later.
I once brewed a 6 gallon batch from a lager extract kit that used S-23 yeast. There was a hole in the yeast packet but I pitched it anyway, not knowing any better. It took 10 days to ferment instead of 5 but eventually turned out fine. That was an open yeast packet that had been stored at room temperature for at least three months.
I've still got that open packet of Nottingham in the fridge and I will probably brew with it again in the near future.
 
I've only done this once but I had very good success scaling an extract recipe down from 5 gallons to half a gallon. I just divided everything by ten. The beer, a pale ale with lots of cascade hops, turned out very good. I only needed 1.2 g of dry yeast but my scale is not that accurate so I looked up the density of dry yeast. 1/2 tsp of active dry yeast weighs 1.5 g. I just eyeballed it from there.
I taped the yeast packet shut and stored it in the fridge.
A month later I brewed another half gallon batch with a different recipe but the same yeast, Nottingham. I used 3/4 tsp yeast, thinking it would be less viable, and I had foam oozing out the airlock 24 hours later.
I once brewed a 6 gallon batch from a lager extract kit that used S-23 yeast. There was a hole in the yeast packet but I pitched it anyway, not knowing any better. It took 10 days to ferment instead of 5 but eventually turned out fine. That was an open yeast packet that had been stored at room temperature for at least three months.
I've still got that open packet of Nottingham in the fridge and I will probably brew with it again in the near future.

For the recipe, I think I under pitched, but I am learning dry yeast is hearty if stored correctly. Thanks for you anecdotal story.
 
Chocolate stout

1 lb DME light
1 lb DME Amber

2.6 oz american caramel 120l
5.3 oz american chocolate
2.6 oz cararye

1/3 oz mangnum pellets @ 60 min
some chocolate at flameout, not sure which one

3.5 grams safale s04 (1/3 a pack) will make a starter

1.25 boil size
1 gal target
1.091 og target

How does this look as a scaled back recipe, Any experienced suggestions?
 
Hey sorry. Xmas time I was hecticly busy. Here'es the 5gal recipe for the Choco oatmeal maple coffee stout. Hope your current one turns out nicely

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/flapjack-breakfast-stout-chocolate-coffee-oatmeal-maple-imperial-stout-496504/

Nice, but not ready for all grain. Just started brewing outside with a propane burner from things around the house. And got a separate fermenting chamber to keep a constant temp. Oh and also started washing yeast. I will probably convert this to extract somehow. Just have to find all the sites to help me.

Thanks for sharing.
 
Back
Top