Sanke Weldless Bottom Drain

[DrPaulsen]

I hear ya, the deadspace in my design would be the small ring of space around and up to the height of the locknut. I suppose it would take two paper towels to soak that much up though. It's probably equivalent to what's back-spilled from a traditional siphon tube.

Bobby -- I built my MLT and Electric HLT with bottom drains using the same weldless fitting approach you've described (minus the rigidly attached FB - mine is from Sabco and just floats without any issues, even when stirring). There is approximately 1/4 cup of liquid left in the bottom of each when I'm done. Getting the liquid out of the 8" horizontal pipe nipple is more of a bother for me than mopping up around the locknut.

I apparently lack the technical capacity to attach a picture, so I'll point you to Flickr: DrPaulsen's Photo Stream

For the most relevant images, check out the "Brewing Bench" and "Brewing Bench 3.1" sets. I think this picture, might be the only one to show the locknut: HLT with Bottom Drain

 

[Bobby_M]

You'd be surprised how easy it is to find stainless fittings locally. Do a google maps "search nearby" for industrial supply. There are no less than 5 places within a 25 minute drive of my house that stock threaded stainless fittings and the prices are better than Mcmaster.

 

[BulldogBrewer]

Thanks for the tip. I think I may have found a place or two. I'll have to pay them a visit.

 

[Reelale]

Bobby, in your first post, with the design schematic, you state "If you do NOT need the false bottom, the nipple, cap and locknut would just be replaced with a 1/2" x 3/8 hex threaded reducing bushing. Done." I've decided to use a braid, since I won't be heating the MLT. Are you saying to connect something like the braid assembly you pictured in your other thread? Or could one just put a small piece of braid over the bushing? Another, related question; is the bottom drain design that much superior to a side drain? I've already done my keggle, and could copy that exactly.

Edit: I've decided to go with the bottom drain, it's already drilled.

 

[Bobby_M]

The only downside to a regular side drain is that if you lose siphon when the liquid is below the ball valve, you can't get the drain restarted. I just don't know of any easy way to have a bottom drain with a braid connected.

 

[Reelale]

Think I'll order the 12" FB from Jaybird then. Thanks. !2" inch would be sufficient right? I'm using the BK as a grant to pump from, not recirculating directly from the MLT.

 

[Jaybird]

Ah, I see that now. I'm guessing the weight of the grist wouldn't hold it tight enough? I do very little stirring at mash-in, and then none during recirculation.

I wouldn't trust a FB to stay put if you stir at all.

Reelale has asked a few questions in the last couple of days so I thought I would answer 1 here... I used to use the 12" in my bottom drain tippy dump MLT. I did this for years and I stir like a mad man several times in the mash... I haven't ever had my 12" false bottom move on me. You have to really get in there with your paddle and pry like mad to try and move the thing. Even then you are going to have a hard time getting the thing to go anywhere. Lets just say it did move, Where is it gonna go? up the side? aint gonna happen! slide around and not be over your drain? NOPE! can't happen. a 12" only has 1.5" that it can move either way and it is still going to seal on the bottom of the kettle if it even could go anywhere...Like I said I used a 12" for years without ever having the FB fail or move in any way...
I moved up to the 15" hinged version a few years ago and really like the efficiency I gained from it (about 5-7%) and the fact that if I want to direct fire I can (and do from time to time) I also like how fast I can drain without sticking a mash, never stuck one before but I drained a bit slower than I do now. The 12" is a great FB and will last forever and work killer... . Hope that helps.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Bobby_M]

Jay would know better than me since he's actually had a false bottom with no hold down. With that disclaimer, I'd still use something to hold it centered and secure. That's just me and it may be totally irrational.

 

[Reelale]

I'm gonna try the 13" (I didn't even know they existed until Jay told me) size alone. If it doesn't work, I can always drill a hole and use Bobby's design. I'm thinking that with the thin mash of a no-sparge, and the minimal stirrring, it should work. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[check]

I'm planning a 2 vessel electric brewery, and I like the idea of bottom drain keggles for the MLT and the BK. I would like the BK drain to be "filtered" to a finer degree than a FB normally could accomplish on it's own.

I was wondering if placing a splatter screen below a FB in a electric BK would be a practical solution for capturing hot break, and possibly pellet hops.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think the splatter screen mesh is a bit too fine but at that price, give it a shot.

 

[poolshark021]

I'm planning a 2 vessel electric brewery, and I like the idea of bottom drain keggles for the MLT and the BK. I would like the BK drain to be "filtered" to a finer degree than a FB normally could accomplish on it's own.

I was wondering if placing a splatter screen below a FB in a electric BK would be a practical solution for capturing hot break, and possibly pellet hops.

I've been toying with this idea for a while. I like the idea of a bottom drain for the BK but then you don't get to whirlpool, and pellet hops could cause a big problem. If you use whole hops it wouldn't be too bad but then you have to try and filter out the hot break. If you give that splatter screen a shot please let me know how it works out.

 

[electrichead]

Searching this forum amazes me sometimes. Is there anything someone else hasn't thought of?

I am wanting to use this setup on 2 electric keggles but the one issue I am having seems to be one others have brought up. The standard false bottom openings are to large to filter out the pellet hops and other debris.

I was playing with the idea of attaching a layer of the stainless mesh to a standard false bottom with stainless wire.

Thoughts, improvements, objections.....?

 

[Reelale]

Searching this forum amazes me sometimes. Is there anything someone else hasn't thought of?

I am wanting to use this setup on 2 electric keggles but the one issue I am having seems to be one others have brought up. The standard false bottom openings are to large to filter out the pellet hops and other debris.

I was playing with the idea of attaching a layer of the stainless mesh to a standard false bottom with stainless wire.

Thoughts, improvements, objections.....?

Hop sock to contain hop debris. False bottom works flawlessly as is. That's my experience.

 

[electrichead]

Hop sock to contain hop debris. False bottom works flawlessly as is. That's my experience.

How do you suspend the hop sock. Would it interfere with the coil?

 

[Reelale]

How do you suspend the hop sock. Would it interfere with the coil?

There is a thread on it, I think lil' sparky came up with the idea. Length is adjustable.