sanke fermentation with Spund valve... HELP!

[Dgonza9]

Quick question.

Do I need to re-assemble the rings and everything on my sanke before attach my sanke coupler with spund valve for fermenting under pressure?

I think I understand the concepts involved in this idea, but the details of the how to are remaining elusive. I assume I have to dis-assemble the parts in the top opening of the keg to clean, sanitize, and then fill with wort. So can anyone help with whether I need to re-assemble everything before using my coupler/spund valve? Does the coupler work without all that jazz attached?

Sorry if this is an idiotic question. But I don't have time to tinker with it now. Cheers!

 

[Dgonza9]

Anyone? I'm going to have a few minutes to tinker with this later, I hope. But I'd appreciate a quick primer on the use of this valve with a sanke coupler.

 

[Brewing Clamper]

Well, what "coupler/spund" are you talking about? The way I've done it was like this:

The first thing I did was to remove the stem to clean, sanitize and fill the keg. Using a pipe cutter, I removed 0.75" from the stem to avoid racking any yeast/trub. I also removed the flow checks on a standard sanke coupler so that air could flow out of the gas in valve and liquid could flow in the liquid out valve.
At this point I could either fill the keg & reassemble the stem or reassemble it first and then use the liquid side of the coupler to fill the keg. Whatever you do, if you keep the coupler on there during fermenting, you have to make sure the liquid out port is closed somehow or the beer will just pour out once pressure increases. The spud would be attached to the air side and as the pressure increases it'll keep it in check.

I guess what I'm saying is that if you're using a spund you need to have a way of keeping pressure in so yes, you do have to re assemble the stem & ring to maintain that pressure. I hope this helps...

 

[Dgonza9]

Well, what "coupler/spund" are you talking about? The way I've done it was like this:

The first thing I did was to remove the stem to clean, sanitize and fill the keg. Using a pipe cutter, I removed 0.75" from the stem to avoid racking any yeast/trub. I also removed the flow checks on a standard sanke coupler so that air could flow out of the gas in valve and liquid could flow in the liquid out valve.
At this point I could either fill the keg & reassemble the stem or reassemble it first and then use the liquid side of the coupler to fill the keg. Whatever you do, if you keep the coupler on there during fermenting, you have to make sure the liquid out port is closed somehow or the beer will just pour out once pressure increases. The spud would be attached to the air side and as the pressure increases it'll keep it in check.

I guess what I'm saying is that if you're using a spund you need to have a way of keeping pressure in so yes, you do have to re assemble the stem & ring to maintain that pressure. I hope this helps...

That was very helpful, so thank you. I don't know why I didn't see it that way before. I'm planning on hooking the liquid out side up to a picnic tap So I guess what I'll do is put my wort in thru the liquid out opening in the sanke coupler. I'll look into it. Maybe I can find a way to quick connect from my pump outlet.

One more question, though. I just got my parts for the spund valve from mcmaster.com.

I need to go from this part: 50675K161 Brass 37 Degree Flared Tube Fitting Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Male Pipe

to the Gas in put of the sanke. I'm not sure what size fitting that is or how to do it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SankePankey]

The gas input of a Sanke is the same threading and fittings that go on the end of a faucet shank (beer thread). You can do a barb or an 1/4" MFL fitting like the fitting you're coming from.

 

[Brewing Clamper]

I'm planning on hooking the liquid out side up to a picnic tap So I guess what I'll do is put my wort in thru the liquid out opening in the sanke coupler.

I did this too and it made for really easy hydro readings.