round corny keg lid
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It can't be done.
Know why manhole covers are round? That's the only shape that can't fall in.
And that's why corny-keg lids are oval--so you can slide it into the hole and then orient it. You couldn't do that with a round one.
The only way I can think of to do this would be to cut the top off a corny keg w/ the oval opening, and weld or otherwise affix that to the top of the conical. Not sure how easy it would be to do that and retain the ability to clean it effectively.
Know why manhole covers are round? That's the only shape that can't fall in.
And that's why corny-keg lids are oval--so you can slide it into the hole and then orient it. You couldn't do that with a round one.
The only way I can think of to do this would be to cut the top off a corny keg w/ the oval opening, and weld or otherwise affix that to the top of the conical. Not sure how easy it would be to do that and retain the ability to clean it effectively.
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Old thread I am searching for answer for something but you don't say?
Looks like some kind of screwed on lid?
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Ooooooo, some sorta pull the lever, expands the underlying rubber kinda thing. Interesting.
Like a wine stopper maybe. Anyway, just interesting.
Like a wine stopper maybe. Anyway, just interesting.
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[Moderator EDIT]
This post was made by the OP in another thread. He links to it, 2 posts down.
For clarity and illustration, I've copied it to this thread:
I know it's an old thread and many of the pictures are missing. I have what appears to be described in some of these posts. There is no thumbscrew looking piece and I cannot get it to seal. I have a gasket it fits around the inside wall of the lid snugly but no seal. There are three equidistant holes on the lid's side, cleanly bored, no threads. The relief valves appears to be a D from above. The writing on the keg says this is a Firestone Challenger VI.
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This post was made by the OP in another thread. He links to it, 2 posts down.
For clarity and illustration, I've copied it to this thread:
I know it's an old thread and many of the pictures are missing. I have what appears to be described in some of these posts. There is no thumbscrew looking piece and I cannot get it to seal. I have a gasket it fits around the inside wall of the lid snugly but no seal. There are three equidistant holes on the lid's side, cleanly bored, no threads. The relief valves appears to be a D from above. The writing on the keg says this is a Firestone Challenger VI.
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fwiw, I had a ball lock keg with a lever-operated PRV valve that looked just like that thing on the keg lid...
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Is that a cornelius keg?
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
It is confusing. In the pictures linked on the other thread, it clearly says it is a Firestone Challenger VI, which I'm familiar with. But those are NOT Firestone Challenger VI posts in the picture, they appear to be Cornelius, which will NOT go on a Firestone -- different threads. And I've never seen a lid like that. Maybe this is somebody's Frankenstein job?
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They are not the same as Cornelius posts. They say Hansen 2-KG and Hansen 2-KL (Gas and Liquid). Probably replacements. They thread on fine. The problem the sealing the lid. One picture is visible in the other thread and it is of a keg with round lid (blurry). Looks to be a five gallon though and it has two handles.
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
Yeah, sealing the lid... I can't see how. That's another thing that makes me wonder if it's been custom modified. Could someone have cut a hole and welded that on? If there's no way to seal it, why the PRV? I've been searching websites of vendors and manufacturers of this general class of containers and haven't seen anything like that, the oval (or similar racetrack) type lids are all I've seen. Anyway, quite a puzzle.
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I've searched more than once and not found anything either. I bought it off ebay and I knew it didn't have an oring. The price was low so I took a chance with it. Some time later I saw that the seller had another one more busted I think it was. So I think he had two and tried to fix one but never got it to seal either. But I don't think he even had the oring. I have a number of different kegs. All of them have a top that is stamped out around the lid opening and the shape of the stamped part always mirrors the lid shape if that makes sense. As it does with this. The lid was made for the top. I don't think it is custom.
Maybe it doesn't use an oring? I have two fustis which have round lids and they use a sort of flat ring somewhat rounded though. Might be what it needs.
Robert65
Major Obvious (recently promoted)
At this point, I think it's safe to say that if it has a future, it WILL be custom! Whatever you can do, if you can get it to hold pressure, you've won. (The next question would be, what pressure is that PRV designed to hold?) BTW did you say how much you paid for this bit of entertainment? Anyway good luck!
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I think the PRV is the type D listed in the other thread. Keg itself is stamped for 130 psi. I paid $30 for it.
I'm thinking maybe a slip joint gasket shape might hold the pressure.
I'm thinking maybe a slip joint gasket shape might hold the pressure.
Not sure this is even close to what you want but it might give you an idea. Up to 4" in size: https://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/testing/test-devices/testtitan
From your images (I've copied them to this thread, for clearer illustration) it looks like a radiator cap type of closure. It surely needs an o-ring to seal properly.
Finding the right diameter, thickness, and profile is indeed the tricky part.
Look at the "bottom" of the lid's groove for ideas on width and height. The very top where the gasket meets the ridge of the keg's opening, is edgy, looks kinda sharp. It may need a flat profile o-ring, but I'd experiment round ones. It should fill the channel rather tightly, side to side, so it doesn't deform sideways, only compressing the height, when screwing it down.
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Great observation, it's very much like a radiator cap. No spring but the steps on the neck are just like one. The inner neck is sloped. I had an o-ring gasket but I think maybe it wasn't tall enough. I looked some for a slip gasket but not too extensively. That sort of gasket is what is used on my fusti fermenters.
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That's an interesting idea. I just bought a 3" one. Years ago, I worked with my brother, a plumber. He used to have heavy rubber, close to cylindrical balls for testing drainage pipes. They were pumped up with a bike pump. These newer plugs sort of screw in. I wonder how much pressure a test plug can hold?
Looking at your close-up of that lid now, it needs a flat or "rectangular" profile o-ring the full width of that channel. Definitely not a round profile. An old-fashioned Mason jar o-ring perhaps? It must be something fairly common, me thinks.
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Some portion flat at least. I think the height is important to act like the spring. The tabs on the lid stop the lid rotation at the tallest step on the neck. I think the holes are to show where the lids is. There's a minute amount of play once the lid is fully rotated. One o-ring didn't seem sufficient but two didn't work either. Probably a bad seal in between the two circular profiles. I just got my digital caliper back so I will measure the o-ring that doesn't fit once I bring the caliper home.
Yes, some compression of the gasket is needed to make a positive seal.
You can stack 2 flat o-rings if needed. I've cut o-rings from a sheet of gasket rubber, but I don't think they're food grade.
My guess it would depend if the rubber would actually protrude into the keg. If the rubber could extend inside the keg a little (3/8" +/-) it would hold more than if it just expanded in the neck alone if you get what I mean. Not sure of the depth of the expanding section, as in how far it fits into the hub of a pipe fitting. I didn't look at them that close, I was just tossing out an idea.
Joel B.
EDIT= a little more info on this plug> https://www.siouxchief.com/docs/def...l-test-plug---testtitan.pdf?sfvrsn=70b13a37_6
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