Pump recommendation
- Thread starter BPoling7
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The anvil pump is the reason I keep looking. I bought it with high hopes and getting that thing primed has been a nightmare for me. I read how with some pumps you have to build a bleed valve for air but I'm not getting into all that. A self priming one would be awesome.
I added a bleeder valve to my chugger but never use it. In fact, I'm taking it off the next time I disassemble for cleaning.
My pump is lower than my kettle; not a lot but a good 6-8 inches lower. This allows liquid to naturally drain into it.
All I do is:
1) Attach hose from drain valve on kettle to pump inlet.
2) Attach hose to pump outlet.
3) Open kettle drain valve.
4) Open pump outlet valve.
Liquid now starts flowing from the kettle, through the pump and into the hose attached to the outlet. The pump is now primed.
5) Close the pump outlet valve before liquid travels too far into the outlet hose.
6) Attach outlet hose to whirlpool inlet on kettle or position it in the right place for filling the vessel being transferred into.
7) Turn chugger on and open the pump outlet valve.
Pretty straight forward really and this works every time with no fuss. I love my chugger pump. It's been reliable. I want a second one for dual purposes; ability to recirculate mash and to have as a backup in the event that I might have a pump failure on brew day.
So far I've had zero failures. But it would kinda suck to have that happen in the middle of brewing a half barrel batch. I rely on my chugger pump and its been awesome for several years now!
My pump is lower than my kettle; not a lot but a good 6-8 inches lower. This allows liquid to naturally drain into it.
All I do is:
1) Attach hose from drain valve on kettle to pump inlet.
2) Attach hose to pump outlet.
3) Open kettle drain valve.
4) Open pump outlet valve.
Liquid now starts flowing from the kettle, through the pump and into the hose attached to the outlet. The pump is now primed.
5) Close the pump outlet valve before liquid travels too far into the outlet hose.
6) Attach outlet hose to whirlpool inlet on kettle or position it in the right place for filling the vessel being transferred into.
7) Turn chugger on and open the pump outlet valve.
Pretty straight forward really and this works every time with no fuss. I love my chugger pump. It's been reliable. I want a second one for dual purposes; ability to recirculate mash and to have as a backup in the event that I might have a pump failure on brew day.
So far I've had zero failures. But it would kinda suck to have that happen in the middle of brewing a half barrel batch. I rely on my chugger pump and its been awesome for several years now!
You won't like the price as much, but I have the Blichmann Riptide; has a bleeder valve, includes a valve to control flow, does 7 gpm at max flow. It's *very* quiet, has a long cord, and an on-off switch on the pump itself. Nothing about it I don't like.
I'd buy another.
I'd buy another.
MX1
Texas Ale Works
Self priming is going to be your issue.
March, Chugger, Topsflo, Riptide.....non are self priming
March, Chugger, Topsflo, Riptide.....non are self priming
ancientmariner52
Well-Known Member
There are no self-priming centrifugal pumps. None. The eye of the impeller must be flooded, and the inlet must have a constant supply of liquid in a greater flow volume than you intend to pump out. As a general rule, place your centrifugal pump as low as possible in your system, and all will be well.
Aaron Beers
Well-Known Member
As others have noted, I don't know that you're going to find a self priming pump. I'd also say that a self priming pump is unnecessary and the troubles you've had are user error (no offense).
Put your pump below your liquid source.
Make sure you've oriented you're inlet/outlet correctly.
Make sure liquid has flooded through the pump before your turn it on, e.g. you should see liquid in the tubing connected to both inlet and outlet.
Always fully open any valve(s) between the liquid source and the pump inlet.
Use a valve at the pump outlet and leave that valve only partially open when first turning on the pump to avoid cavitation. Slowly open that pump outlet valve once the pump is on.
As for specific pumps. It's more than $150, but the RipTide pump from Blichmann is great. I wrote a post with comparison to Chugger pumps that you can search for.
Put your pump below your liquid source.
Make sure you've oriented you're inlet/outlet correctly.
Make sure liquid has flooded through the pump before your turn it on, e.g. you should see liquid in the tubing connected to both inlet and outlet.
Always fully open any valve(s) between the liquid source and the pump inlet.
Use a valve at the pump outlet and leave that valve only partially open when first turning on the pump to avoid cavitation. Slowly open that pump outlet valve once the pump is on.
As for specific pumps. It's more than $150, but the RipTide pump from Blichmann is great. I wrote a post with comparison to Chugger pumps that you can search for.
Diver_Alan
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I have both a Chugger and a March. They are not self priming but I have never had any issues with them. The March is quieter but I would recommend either one.
I've got a buyer's guide chart on the top of this page: https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1836.htm
The only pump I don't have listed there is the Anvil but frankly even though I'm a dealer, I'm not crazy about the Anvil products.
You don't need a self priming and you certainly do not need any bleeder valves. The best advice I can give you is to keep the hoses as short as you can (something like the Topflo can be direct port mounted).
The only pump I don't have listed there is the Anvil but frankly even though I'm a dealer, I'm not crazy about the Anvil products.
You don't need a self priming and you certainly do not need any bleeder valves. The best advice I can give you is to keep the hoses as short as you can (something like the Topflo can be direct port mounted).
