Propane Problems

[patrickpruitt]

I have a Bayou Cooker burner and a normal small propane tank. I feel like I should be getting at least two batches of beer out of a propane fill but I can never get through a second one. The only time I even use it is during an hour boil for hop additions and I just keep a low rumbling boil. During the last beer I tried to brew, it would only last a few minutes and then cut off before not working at all. So I took the tank to fill it back up and was told it was only half empty. So for some reason even though I have propane I'm not able to use it. Any thoughts?


God Bless

 

[krackin]

Yeah, you are drawing so much propane off that the evaporization is cooling the bottle to the point where it barely vaporizes. Cold weather increases the problem. Use at least a 40# bottle. Sometimes you can lay a bottle on it's side BUT this can cause liquid propane to flow through the line and create a potential massive hazard.

 

[krackin]

Just saw that you are in FL. If your bottle isn't frosting up then I'd say you need a new regulator.

 

[bja]

Yeah, you are drawing so much propane off that the evaporization is cooling the bottle to the point where it barely vaporizes. Cold weather increases the problem. Use at least a 40# bottle. Sometimes you can lay a bottle on it's side BUT this can cause liquid propane to flow through the line and create a potential massive hazard.

This is all a bunch of crap.

What size tank do you have?

It's possible that it could be this (cut and pasted from somewhere on the interweb):

"The cylinder has a safety feature built into the valve that is an "excess flow" valve. It is there to severely restrict the flow of propane if the hose is cut or burnt.

You may have accidentally caused this feature to activate by either leaving the burner controls open or turning on the cylinder valve too quickly.

Make sure the appliance control valves are turned off and make sure the cylinder valve is turned off.

Disconnect and reconnect the cylinder. Open the cylinder valve SLOWLY and only open it a very small amount. Wait several seconds and then you can open the valve all the way and gently "back seat" it.

Light the appliance normally and you should be OK... This is a common occurrence. Either the flame will be very low or non-existent if this feature prematurely activates."

 

[ColoHox]

I usually get 4-10 gallon batches out of 1 standard sized tank. Something is going on here.

+1 to bja's comments. You have to make sure you dont trip the safety valve in the regulator.
My approach: start with all valves closed. Open the main tank valve a small amount, maybe a quarter turn. Then, slowly open the next valve in line. You should hear the gas start to fill the lines. Once pressurized, open the main tank valve fully and adjust the flow with the other inline valves. The regulator will make a small click if you open valves to quickly, indicating you tripped the safety valve within.

 

[patrickpruitt]

Thanks a ton guys. I'll try this stuff out next time and give you all an update.


God Bless

 

[Hello]

OP. Definitely take the advice of BJA. That may be the solution because you should get at least three or four brews out of that tank on the low side.

Yeah, you are drawing so much propane off that the evaporization is cooling the bottle to the point where it barely vaporizes. Cold weather increases the problem. Use at least a 40# bottle. Sometimes you can lay a bottle on it's side BUT this can cause liquid propane to flow through the line and create a potential massive hazard.

Probably best to avoid "advice" that includes the creation of a massive hazard. Not to mention, there is no need for a 40# tank and some regulators indicate that the max is 20#.

 

[estricklin]

I would start by suggesting a new regulator.

Are your flames nice and blue?

I added some flashing to the sides of my burner, and WOW, I can get 10 or 12 batches out of it now.

 

[krackin]

OP. Definitely take the advice of BJA. That may be the solution because you should get at least three or four brews out of that tank on the low side.




Probably best to avoid "advice" that includes the creation of a massive hazard. Not to mention, there is no need for a 40# tank and some regulators indicate that the max is 20#.

Oh really great wise one?

Most high pressure regulated heaters recommend 100# cylinders. Take a look at construction heaters as an easy reference, I don't expect much from you per;se. When trying to impress others with your self induced ingenious revelations please realize that you are most likely wrong per easy industry reference.

 

[dcbc]

Or, if it's freezing up, you can try setting the tank in a tub of water. If you're using a banjo burner, they can freeze a tank up in the summer in Texas (or at least mine did). Haven't thought about it in a while since going NG.

 

[Dan]

I've had problems with the valve on the tank getting stuck closed. Turn the valve knob slowly, you can hear a click in the tank once the actual valve is open. If you don't hear it and have no gas flow, a gentle tap on top the knob will jar it enough to open the sticky valve. Always works for me when that situation occurs.

 

[krackin]

This is all a bunch of crap.

What size tank do you have?

It's possible that it could be this (cut and pasted from somewhere on the interweb):

"The cylinder has a safety feature built into the valve that is an "excess flow" valve. It is there to severely restrict the flow of propane if the hose is cut or burnt.

You may have accidentally caused this feature to activate by either leaving the burner controls open or turning on the cylinder valve too quickly.

Make sure the appliance control valves are turned off and make sure the cylinder valve is turned off.

Disconnect and reconnect the cylinder. Open the cylinder valve SLOWLY and only open it a very small amount. Wait several seconds and then you can open the valve all the way and gently "back seat" it.

Light the appliance normally and you should be OK... This is a common occurrence. Either the flame will be very low or non-existent if this feature prematurely activates."

Hi BJA,

You are full of chit. LPG bottles will stop vaporizing with high demand, low available tank space, and/or extreme cold. Ever heard of a 60% fill? Do you know what that is for? No? Where are you from posuer. Oh, PA, LOL.

 

[krackin]

I've had problems with the valve on the tank valve getting stuck closed. Turn the valve knob slowly, you can hear a click in the tank once the actual valve is open. If you don't hear it and have no gas flow, a gentle tap on top the knob will jar it enough to open the sticky valve. Always works for me when that situation occurs.

Yup. Actually this will also affect filling bottles with the well thought out OFDs.

You may get an independent propane station that has a problem filling an empty tank which is actually bone dry (expression here, bja) All you need to do is do a 4" drop. Problem solved. This will most likely correct the above questions asked without going through the maniacal rigamarole suggested by others.

 

[MrNatural]

Oh really great wise one?

Most high pressure regulated heaters recommend 100# cylinders. Take a look at construction heaters as an easy reference, I don't expect much from you per;se. When trying to impress others with your self induced ingenious revelations please realize that you are most likely wrong per easy industry reference.

I'm thinking I just experienced the "safety" doodad choking off my high pressure banjo burner during wet "dry run" last weekend.

Any other high pressure folks run into that?

Going to try again with 60# cylinder from my commercial grill that doesn't have all that nonsense. Have had some ice-up on bottle when using all burners on 4' grill, but never suffered a "freeze".

 

[krackin]

I'm thinking I just experienced the "safety" doodad choking off my high pressure banjo burner during wet "dry run" last weekend.

Any other high pressure folks run into that?

Going to try again with 60# cylinder from my commercial grill that doesn't have all that nonsense. Have had some ice-up on bottle when using all burners on 4' grill, but never suffered a "freeze".

You need a 2 stage regulator also bro. Those "20 lb only" regulators are single stage and are useless. Forget that crap.

 

[MrNatural]

You need a 2 stage regulator also bro. Those "20 lb only" regulators are single stage and are useless. Forget that crap.

Grill regulator is low pressure

No 20lb only here, GBOGTFO!
Figure on converting my http://www.agrisupply.com/high-pressure-adjustable-propane-gas-regulator/p/64640/&sid=&eid=/
to POL (to fit 60#) and see if that works.

 

[krackin]

It looks like you are good to go. The last adjustable regulator I had was for 250 BTU to 750 M BTU I think. Maybe more. May have been a Sherwood. No matter anyway. Got my chips cashed n.

 

[bja]

Oh really great wise one?

Most high pressure regulated heaters recommend 100# cylinders. Take a look at construction heaters as an easy reference, I don't expect much from you per;se. When trying to impress others with your self induced ingenious revelations please realize that you are most likely wrong per easy industry reference.

There's a big difference between construction heaters and turkey fryers. You should Google that sometime.

 

[bja]

I'm thinking I just experienced the "safety" doodad choking off my high pressure banjo burner during wet "dry run" last weekend.