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PID wiring help!

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Mountainsax

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Ok, so I started wiring my control panel (220V, 2 element, 2 pump, 30A eHERMs). It only took me 4 weeks to figure out where to start :smack:, and I ran into a problem! All the wiring diagrams I can find for this type setup have the alarm being wired into the #1 and #14 pins on the PID, but my PIDs only have 10 pins??? Does anyone know if there is a diagram for these types of PIDs or do I need different ones?

Here is the back of my panel door with the PIDs.
IMG_17111_zpsvscjizth.jpg
 
If they are mypins (which they look to be) or "APGTEK" you want to use the wiring diagram mounted on the side of the pid (on the sticker) and not the ones in the direction sheet since they can be wrong depending on the model.... Besides the probe wiring which can be trickywith pt100 probes but wont hurt anything if wired wrong) they are pretty self explanatory. The input power can be 120v or 240v and the output for the ssr goes to the control switching side of the ssr... pjs diagrams are fairly universal to explain things better in this regard. even though the physical location of the screw posts may be different its labeling will still have the same descriptions ....
 
the two red wires on your rtd go to pins 8 and 9 (one to each, doesn't matter which). the white wire goes to pin 7. i believe you need a jumper between 7 and 10 as well.
 
Should not need the jumper between 7 and 10. Some RTD have 4 wires, two white and 2 red. If there are 2 white wires one goes on 7 the other on 10. Adding a jumper will reduce the accuracy of a 3 wire RTD.
 
Should not need the jumper between 7 and 10. Some RTD have 4 wires, two white and 2 red. If there are 2 white wires one goes on 7 the other on 10. Adding a jumper will reduce the accuracy of a 3 wire RTD.

I second this, I had the jumper originally and found it served no purpose...
 
So I would follow this diagram, only run the blue to pin 7 and the reds to pins 8 & 9?
temp%20probe%20wiring_zpsi7jyfeqp.png

yes correct, and remember the worst that will happen is it just wont work, it wont fry anything... I wired mine wrong at first as many here have before learning of our mistakes.

and remember to set the temp probe type to "PT" in the menu when done or it wont read right at all.

And you did get the better "TD" series pid which has the easy to use manual pwm mode as well for controlling a boil in your boil kettle incase you weren't aware already..
 
yes correct, and remember the worst that will happen is it just wont work, it wont fry anything... I wired mine wrong at first as many here have before learning of our mistakes.

and remember to set the temp probe type to "PT" in the menu when done or it wont read right at all.

And you did get the better "TD" series pid which has the easy to use manual pwm mode as well for controlling a boil in your boil kettle incase you weren't aware already..

A wealth of information! Thanks augiedoggy!! :mug:

Good to know I have the better PIDs. I got the panel partially completed from another member (ampsman), so I'm learning as I go and figuring out everything. He had it partially wired but I was so new to this that instead of trying to figure out what he had done and then what needed done, I just started over. It was a good call because now it makes so much more sense. He hadn't wired the PIDs yet.
 
A wealth of information! Thanks augiedoggy!! :mug:

Good to know I have the better PIDs. I got the panel partially completed from another member (ampsman), so I'm learning as I go and figuring out everything. He had it partially wired but I was so new to this that instead of trying to figure out what he had done and then what needed done, I just started over. It was a good call because now it makes so much more sense. He hadn't wired the PIDs yet.

its a great feeling (sense of accomplishment) when its all done and your brewing your first batch of beer with it...
good luck :mug:
 
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