PH question...

[Hopfan]

I should be receiving my grain shipment in about a week and going to attempt the first AG. I was originally going to batch sparge, but being a sadist, thought I would try the fly sparge so I can get over the building of equipment and get on with the using of it.

I have read about PH concerns with fly sparging and wanted some feedback from those that use this method. How concerned should I be and what precautions can I take to stay on track? When & how often should I test?

Thanks

 

[t-dogg]

I have never tested the ph of my mash i have my pool which was around 6.5 i would just mash and not worry i am sure you will be fine

 

[the_bird]

I'm planning on trying out the PH 5.2 buffer on my next batch; I have no idea how it works, but if it'll get the PH where it needs to be with little work, all the better.

 

[Hopfan]

I'm planning on trying out the PH 5.2 buffer on my next batch; I have no idea how it works, but if it'll get the PH where it needs to be with little work, all the better.

Are you talking about an additive to the water? Acetic Acid or Sodium Acetate?

 

[the_bird]

http://pivo.northernbrewer.com/nbstore/action/search-do?searchTerm=BUFFER

 

[Hopfan]

Thanks Bird. Let me know how it works out for you. My wife is the chemistry person in the family, but I have picked up a bit. From their description, it sounds like it's Socium Acetate that you are adding to the mash. A buffer is essentially quenching a reaction (I think) so this additive should halt any reactions that would raise the PH of the mash. Or I could be totally off my rocker.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

pH 5.2 is a phosphate buffer. I used it today and achieved 70% efficiency without ever checking the pH. I think I could do better with a little fine tuning of my procedures - mostly sparge temperature and speed, I think. pH isn't one of my concerns - the buffer should be taking care of that.

 

[boo boo]

The 5.2 don't ALWAYS make your mash a 5.2 mash.

I have very soft water and have to boost the ph with gypsum, even with the 5.2 to get 5.2 to 5.4 ph.

In my light colored beers, that is.

 

[david_42]

I've been using pH 5.2 for years. I gave up trying to read the pH strips and you can buy a decade's worth of pH 5.2 for the price of a meter. Hard water in Oakland, CA or the almost distilled water I have in Oregon, it works great.

 

[boo boo]

I've been using pH 5.2 for years. I gave up trying to read the pH strips and you can buy a decade's worth of pH 5.2 for the price of a meter. Hard water in Oakland, CA or the almost distilled water I have in Oregon, it works great.

I went for the meter anyway. Cost me less than $100 worth of smokes
that I gave up to enjoy this hobby for.

I have a load of the 5.2 and do use it for my sparge water and sometimes
for my mash. I just found that personaly, I wasn't getting 5.2 to 5.4ph out of my light coloured brews without also adding some gypsum to the mash.

PH strips also wasn't showing me any colour change for the most part. I must be partially colour blind also.

 

[Baron von BeeGee]

The 5.2 don't ALWAYS make your mash a 5.2 mash.

I have very soft water and have to boost the ph with gypsum, even with the 5.2 to get 5.2 to 5.4 ph.

In my light colored beers, that is.

Do you mean lower the pH? Gypsum will lower the pH or water, not boost it.

 

[ajf]

As I understand things, you should not normally need to reduce the pH of the sparge water unless your sparge water is too hot.

The purpose of acidifying the sparge is to reduce tannin extraction which is a non issue if the sparge is kept in the 168 - 170 degree range. I did it when changing my procedures, and I was not sure about the sparge temperature, but now I've got the sparge temperature dialled in, I no longer bother.

-a.

 

[boo boo]

Do you mean lower the pH? Gypsum will lower the pH or water, not boost it.

I did mean lower it.