pH adjustment during sparge.

[Neddy]

I'm getting my AG setup together and would like to try fly sparging. I've read the pro's/con's about batch vs. fly sparging and I'd at least like to try a few batches with fly sparging before I try batch sparging. From my reading one of the things I noticed you must watch is the pH of your water once you get into the sparge and the buffering power of the grains is decreased. How often should I check the pH? What should I use to drop it if it gets to high? What should be my target pH (from what I've read 5.2-5.3 is about right)?

 

[Beer Snob]

I am not one to give an impression of tons of experience when I don't have it. I am pretty new to AG, but do have some experience.

I have done 2 flys. I got a bit more then 6 gallons in the brewpots (I use two) and they came out great. So I'm guessing that with 6ish gallons Ph was not a problem.

I did one Decoction and it WAS AN INCREDIBLE experience and the brew is incredible.

I have done 2 batches. The first was my first AG cause everyone said it was the easiest way. Let me say... it is... if everything goes well. I had a stuck sparge and then finally the tubbing came undone (which brought me to order high temp tubing...I recommend it). My second batch was just this past weekend with TAFTHBD. I did not have a stuck one this time I have to say it was real cool. I was done obviously A LOT sooner. My only major problem I had was as I was talking to the people about brewing I forgot about the sparge water and added 1.5 gallons more sparge water in the sparge then I wanted (DAMMIT TO HELL......). I found that talking when I need to concentrate on what I'm donig don't work here. Also... very important here. When your sparge calls for 3.5 gallons and you have 5 in the hot water tank... drain out 1...... then you can let it rip and not worry too much if you get distracted.

So thats my 2 cents.... batches are easy... flys are a piece of cake. Just a bit more time thats all. And decoctions.... they rock. You should play with and understand decoctions actually cause if you undershoot your temp this is a real good way to get it up without adding a lot of water. I still screwed up my efficiency so I am still not sure to how much more grain I need to add to a batch, but know you do need to add more grain to batch sparging... it's less efficient.

 

[david_42]

I batch sparge these days, but started using pH 5.2 buffering compound back when I was still fly sparging. It completely eliminates tannin extraction, so I can sparge at a higher temperature & get better efficiency.

 

[Grimsawyer]

I batch sparge these days, but started using pH 5.2 buffering compound back when I was still fly sparging. It completely eliminates tannin extraction, so I can sparge at a higher temperature & get better efficiency.

PH 5.2 buffering compound? Is that available at most LHBS? How much does it cost? How much higher can you run your temp? Can you go right up to boiling temperatures?

 

[Brewsmith]

I have all-grained over 15 brews and I fly sparge. I have never checked the ph of the mash, ever. Depending on the amount of grain and starting gravity, I have collected everywhere from 6.5 to 9 gallons of wort. I don't even really check the gravity of the run-off. I have a few times in the beginning just to see what the gravity was near the end (near 1.010) but now if I have any doubts I just taste the run-off. If it's still fairly sweet, I keep going.