Perlick Flow Control- Worth It?

[TeiaMarcus]

I've installed my first tap line from the fridge to the bar- works great and the beer is delicious with an awesome pour. I have three more beers to follow with their own lines, but I have a question to pose... Are the Perlick Flow Control faucets worth it?

I have a Perlick 630SS faucet on the first line, but preparing to order the second line this week. Interested in new and fresh opinions.....thanks

 

[J2W2]

Hi TeiaMarcus,

I just finished building my keezer about a month ago, and I went with four Perlick 650SS flow-control faucets and a stout faucet. So far I'm only running two Perlicks and the stout faucet (I'm adding my fourth keg today). I've got a Belgian Trappist running wide open on one Perlick, and an IPA about 3/4 open on the other.

Being able to adjust the flow, without adjusting the keg PSI, is a great feature. I've found IPAs to be extremely foamy, but by cutting the flow rate down some at the faucet, I'm getting a good pour.

The only downside I've seen is they seem just a little more "mushy" when you close them. This is in comparison to the normal Perlicks I have on my kegerator. They also tend to drip a couple of drops after you close them, so I set the glass on my drip tray under the faucet for a minute or so to catch them.

One of the reasons I picked the flow-control was for growler filling. I haven't filled one yet, but by shutting the flow down most of the way, it's supposed to be a lot easier to fill a growler without much foam. I've also heard the flow-controls are great for reducing the flow when filling small sample glasses.

If you're not in a big rush, you might try a 650SS on your second line to see how you like it. When I bought mine, RiteBrew had the best price on them. I see they have them for $49.49 right now.

Good luck!

 

[TeiaMarcus]

Thanks J2W2,

I appreciate the feedback and opinion. I like the thought of being able to fine tune the pour on an IPA.

Congrats on the new keezer. I hope you enjoy your setup as much as I am enjoying mine. I will admit, I am a bit jealous already. I thought I was going to be content with four taps, but when I saw your five tap setup....I was envious. Well done, sir

 

[bondra76]

subscribed - I have heard great things about them so far.

Thinking of putting one on a soda tap. I want high PSI in the keg but slow(er) pour off the tap.

 

[stoutfan87]

I have two and love them. Easily adjustable. Bottled straight from it and filled a growler.

I too have noticed the "mushy" seating. At first I just closed the flow control valve and the ball valve. That stopped the drip for me. Later I found that adjusting the throw of the tap handle helps as well.

 

[J2W2]

I too have noticed the "mushy" seating. At first I just closed the flow control valve and the ball valve. That stopped the drip for me. Later I found that adjusting the throw of the tap handle helps as well.

I forgot to mention that being able to close the flow control is another nice feature. I'd actually like to get in the habit of doing that after every pour, kind of as a "safety" feature. I have to give the stout handle a pretty good pull to open it, but the Perlicks move easily and it would take much to accidentally open one part way.

I added my fourth keg yesterday, and was cleaning and sanitizing the line first. I thought the tap was closed, but it was open just enough that I had some cleaner come out when I pumped up my line cleaner. Again, due to the "mushy" close.

stoutfan87, could you explain a little more on how you adjusted the throw of the tap handle? That might be something I need to try.

Thanks!

 

[stoutfan87]

Sure. The two nuts on the top of the tap adjust the throw of the tap. If the bottom nut, closest to the faucet, is too tight it makes the tap difficult to throw. If it's too loose it is really sloppy and can cause the ball valve to lose seat. Playing with that should help the mushy seat. It's helped with mine but it's taken some tuning.

 

[jmhbutler]

Hate to dig up and old thread...

I have one tap on my keezer that is consistently problematic... It sits lower in the keg (making it colder and pick up more carbonation) and it uses a D-coupler (so it passes through warmer metal).

Long story short, its always pours foamy on the first cup or so until everything cools down...

I'm wondering if this tap would solve my problem.

Any insight would help,

 

[J2W2]

Hate to dig up and old thread...

I have one tap on my keezer that is consistently problematic... It sits lower in the keg (making it colder and pick up more carbonation) and it uses a D-coupler (so it passes through warmer metal).

Long story short, its always pours foamy on the first cup or so until everything cools down...

I'm wondering if this tap would solve my problem.

Any insight would help,

I've been running mine for over a year now, and I'm very glad I got them. Here's a quick rundown on what I've found.

Pros: I run four kegs on CO2 with a dual regulator, so for the four kegs I can basically set two different PSI. These faucets work great to be able to dial down (or up) the flow rate to control foaming when multiple kegs are set to the same PSI. Now that I have five beers on tap (one on Nitrogen), I have a stack of 5oz plastic cups on the keezer for "samplers". Being able to dial down the flow rate is great when you're doing small pours like that. Finally, it makes filling growlers a breeze. I shut the flow rate way down and you can fill a growler with very little foam (I still use a growler filler).

Cons: The only complaint I have is that they do seem to drip a little more when they are first shut off, than the other non-flow-control faucets I had on my kegerator. Again, this is only a few drops after you pour a beer, and it's a very minor issue. I usually either just leave the glass under the tap for a minute or so, or put a piece of paper towel under the faucet after I use it (I have a drip tray, but it's easier to catch the drip on a paper towel rather than clean the drip tray every time).

So again, I'm very pleased with the choice I made.

To address your questions, I can't say for sure these would resolve your issue or not. Pouring cold beer through a warmer line will produce foam as the CO2 comes out of solution. My first pours are always a little more foamy as I have a coffin style keezer, and despite my best efforts I'm sure the beer lines in the tower are a few degrees warmer than the beer is. Mine is not enough to be an issue, I just know there will be a little more head on my first pour.

Having said that, with a flow control faucet, you would have the ability to dial back your first pour to a low flow rate, which should reduce foaming. Once you start the pour and everything has cooled to beer temperature, I think you'd be able to increase the flow rate back up to finish the pour.

I hope that helps!

 

[jmhbutler]

Ia flow control faucet, you would have the ability to dial back your first pour to a low flow rate, which should reduce foaming. Once you start the pour and everything has cooled to beer temperature, I think you'd be able to increase the flow rate back up to finish the pour.

If the foam is coming from a warm D coupler though, wouldn't it pour foamy regardlessly of whether it is poured quickly or slowly?

If you were going to spend up to 100$ to attempt to resolve the problem would you change the keg to a corny or change the tap to a flow control?

Thanks again for the insight

 

[day_trippr]

I think the keg coupler is the least likely place a thermal gradient problem is going to happen in the typical dispensing appliance...

Cheers!

 

[jmhbutler]

Ia flow control faucet, you would have the ability to dial back your first pour to a low flow rate, which should reduce foaming. Once you start the pour and everything has cooled to beer temperature, I think you'd be able to increase the flow rate back up to finish the pour.

If the foam is coming from a warm D coupler though, wouldn't it pour foamy regardlessly of whether it is poured quickly or slowly?

If you were going to spend up to 100$ to attempt to resolve the problem would you change the keg to a corny or change the tap to a flow control?

Thanks again for the insight

 

[agrazela]

Sorry if this is a threadjack...

It's been implied in a few posts in this thread that the flow control valve on the 650ss can be set to completely shut off flow. Is that true?

 

[pat10323]

Sorry if this is a threadjack...

It's been implied in a few posts in this thread that the flow control valve on the 650ss can be set to completely shut off flow. Is that true?

Yes that is true ...it will completely stop the flow and the handle will b wide open

 

[J2W2]

If the foam is coming from a warm D coupler though, wouldn't it pour foamy regardlessly of whether it is poured quickly or slowly?

If you were going to spend up to 100$ to attempt to resolve the problem would you change the keg to a corny or change the tap to a flow control?

Thanks again for the insight

I have never used a D coupler, so I can't say what improvement switching to a corny would make.

I do think, based on my experience using the Perlicks with things like an over-carbonated IPA, that dialing the flow control way back would help your foaming issue on your first pour.

I was trying to think of some way you could test that theory. About the best I can come up with would be to dial the gas on your keg way back, purge the gas on the keg (so it's now at a low pressure level), and try a pour that way. I'm not sure, but that might let you simulate a low-flow pour to see if it helps reduce foaming. If it does, then I'd be pretty sure the Perlicks would do the trick.

I didn't search a lot, but RiteBrew.com, where I got my faucets, sells them for $47.99, and it looks like shipping (to Nebraska anyway) would run around $4 for first class mail. So you'd be spending a little over $50 to try one out. Even if it doesn't resolve your foaming issue, you'll still have a nice faucet. If you spend the money to switch to a corny and it doesn't work, you'll just have a different keg setup (which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Have you tried increasing your line length on that faucet? That's the only other possible fix I can think of. Depending on what kind of tubing you use, that may be the cheapest thing you could try.

That's about the best I can offer. Maybe someone else who has experience with a D coupler could add their advice?

 

[Levente]

Can you cheat and use one of these in lieu of a dedicated stout faucet? It's my understanding that all a stout faucet has is a constrictor in it.

 

[day_trippr]

Can you cheat and use one of these in lieu of a dedicated stout faucet? It's my understanding that all a stout faucet has is a constrictor in it.

A restrictor, a flow straightener - and you can't overlook the fact that stout spouts are elongated.
I doubt any Perl could adequately simulate the pour produced by a true stout faucet...

Cheers!

 

[J2W2]

Can you cheat and use one of these in lieu of a dedicated stout faucet? It's my understanding that all a stout faucet has is a constrictor in it.

No, at least not with the results you'd want. The flow control in the Perlicks is a ball-shaped piece that reduces flow through the faucet. A stout faucet has a plate with small holes in it, which creates the nice head on your beer when it's forced through those holes under high pressure.

 

[ritojr]

No, at least not with the results you'd want. The flow control in the Perlicks is a ball-shaped piece that reduces flow through the faucet. A stout faucet has a plate with small holes in it, which creates the nice head on your beer when it's forced through those holes under high pressure.

I know some faucets I have seen have an attachment for the end of the tap for the stouts, is there something similar to that that can be used on these? I am planning on getting 2 for my setup but I drink and plan to brew a lot of stouts, but wasnt planning on getting my own specific stout faucet in case i decide not to always have one on tap. I guess i could switch it in everytime i have stout going but not something i want to hassle with

 

[techbrewie]

100% worth it IMHO. especially as you add more faucets. The "conventional" approach many people take to balancing their lines is just adding 10 ft of line and dealing with slow flow rates. when you have 5-7 faucets, 50-70 feet of bev seal gets to be cumbersome. if I could bump everything down to 2-3 feet and use flow control faucets life would be great.

 

[day_trippr]

I don't have anything against flow-control faucets, but I don't see "cumbersome" without 'em...

Cheers!

 

[techbrewie]

I did say 50-70 feet of bev-seal. It's a much stiffer line, and more difficult to manage. regardless though, coiling and managing all that line is extra work, and takes extra space in the keezer. Even that is beside the point because short line would be easier to manage and flow control makes line balancing simple and modular.

 

[J2W2]

I know some faucets I have seen have an attachment for the end of the tap for the stouts, is there something similar to that that can be used on these? I am planning on getting 2 for my setup but I drink and plan to brew a lot of stouts, but wasnt planning on getting my own specific stout faucet in case i decide not to always have one on tap. I guess i could switch it in everytime i have stout going but not something i want to hassle with

I'm not sure if there is an attachment for these; I put in a stout faucet with my four Perlicks, so I've never looked.

I assume you have beer gas (25% CO2 / 75% Nitrogen) on your setup? If so, it seems a shame to go that far and not have a stout faucet. You can put pretty much any beer on beer gas, and use a stout faucet with it. It will change the flavor of the beer a little, and obviously you'll have a nitrogen head on it. I've seen a few breweries that are starting to throw nitrogen at everything.

I just brewed a vanilla porter today that will be replacing my oatmeal stout in a couple of months. I'll be serving that on nitrogen and my stout faucet.

At the end of the day, it's obviously your call on the expense, and tying up one of your beer lines, but I wouldn't give mine up. If your system is relatively easy to switch around, you could always swap in a Perlick for your stout faucet (or visa-versa) depending what you have on tap at the time.

 

[jmhbutler]

100% worth it IMHO. especially as you add more faucets. The "conventional" approach many people take to balancing their lines is just adding 10 ft of line and dealing with slow flow rates. when you have 5-7 faucets, 50-70 feet of bev seal gets to be cumbersome. if I could bump everything down to 2-3 feet and use flow control faucets life would be great.

So you're saying with these faucets I could use just a couple feet of 1/4 poly tubing with only a 0.5psi/ft restriction and still have good pours?

Is the sweet spot going to be hard to find? Will the pour be slow?

 

[techbrewie]

Think of it this way, the flow control increases line resistance. so changing the flow control in these faucets is like increasing or decreasing the length of your line (balance wise). Flow control 'should' allow you to maximize your flow rate without creating excessive foam regardless of your carb level. However the more line resistance you have, the lower your flow rate will be.

 

[jmhbutler]

AAAAAHHHH.

I just bought one and threw it on my wild/brett tap. It has been working great so far but I just read that you're not suppose to use it with sour beers of low pH because the stainless may react and cause a sulphur smell!!!

Meanwhile, others say this may be caused by air being trapped by leaving the tap restricted while not in use, which is compounded by lower pH levels.

Anybody out there have any experience?

I suppose I'll leave it on until I notice a problem. Then perhaps try to order new rubber o-rings and switch it to a clean tap....

 

[day_trippr]

Congratulations, you are now a lab rat

Let us know how things progress

Cheers!

 

[jmhbutler]

1. Noticing a plastic taint in first pour. Tired of throwing away first couple ounces. Changes lines to polyethylene. Taste problem resolved.

1B. Repairs hole punched in drywall while angrily struggling to install 3/8 polyethylene lines for several hours. (kidding... but almost)

2. Almost perfect presentation achieved but noticing foaming on first couple pours. Change to flow control taps. Pouring problem resolved.

3. (FUTURE) Sour goes on tap. Supposedly will cause sulphur aroma on first pour. Once again throwing away first couple ounces. New taste problem created.

... Nothing is easy with his hobby, especially when you're nit picky. Is it too late to sell all my sh*t and pick up a new, less frustrating hobby? Video games? Crocheting? Bird watching?

 

[J2W2]

3. (FUTURE) Sour goes on tap. Supposedly will cause sulphur aroma on first pour. Once again throwing away first couple ounces. New taste problem created.

Interesting note on sours. I don't mind one occasionally, but personally I'm not a big enough fan to brew an entire batch. Still good to know, my four Perlicks and even my stout faucet are all stainless. Are sours the only beers that can have issues with SS?

 

[-CHRIS-]

I don't have anything against flow-control faucets, but I don't see "cumbersome" without 'em...
View attachment 338190
Cheers!

Who makes that chest freezer? It can store 6 kegs without a collar?

Chris

 

[william_shakes_beer]

3. (FUTURE) Sour goes on tap. Supposedly will cause sulphur aroma on first pour. Once again throwing away first couple ounces. New taste problem created./QUOTE]


My readings have stated that the sulphur smell is only an issue for the flow control faucets. Apparently the flow control element is a different alloy of stainless steel. I use 2 flow control faucets and have never had a sulphur issue with beer. Getting ready to tap my first cider, and I have a plain perlick on hand to swap out in the event sulphur becomes an issue.

 

[day_trippr]

.

 

[day_trippr]

Who makes that chest freezer? It can store 6 kegs without a collar?

Chris

Frigidaire 13cf, bought at Sears a few years ago.
It will actually fit 7 ball locks easily on the floor, but that eighth just will not squeeze in there...

Cheers!

 

[snomonkey33]

1.

If the foam is coming from a warm D coupler though, wouldn't it pour foamy regardlessly of whether it is poured quickly or slowly?

2.

If you were going to spend up to 100$ to attempt to resolve the problem would you change the keg to a corny or change the tap to a flow control?

1. if you slow it down enough, it gives the CO2 time to exit the beer without creating bubbles, denaturing the proteins in the beer by forming (excessive) head. In short, it will foam less the slower you do it, even if it is warm, if you slow it down ENOUGH, you can remove the foam completely. Depending on temp and press, this could take exceedingly long to fill a pint lol (words of experience). That being said, I have a 650ss and I have poured this way. It does work, advantage is you can pour a beer more quickly after you force carb it but disadvantage is that it still won't taste as good as if you let the carbonation marinate for 2 weeks at the right temp and then get that perfect pour at the ideal pressure.

2. No idea what the differences would be with the kegs.

 

[RevKev]

I'm thinking that passivation of the stainless each year (or whenever scrubbed heavily) may quite possibly help the sulfuric smell when highly acidic liquids pass through the faucets. Well it's my two cents and just a thought, I just ordered two and I have a sour planned soon
Cheers!

 

[william_shakes_beer]

update: I recently finished a 5 gallon keg of cider through Perlick flow control. No sulphur taste or smell present to my senses.