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[Not a] Bike Pump Keg [Evolution]

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NO
secondaries have a max input PSI, usually only a couple hundred max PSI, not thousands.

That's pretty much what I thought. I just sent an email to draught technologies to confirm this, but I won't be using it as a primary to be on the safe side. Since I have no use for a secondary regulator I'm working out a return with the seller, otherwise I'll be selling it.
 
Haven't heard back from Draught Tech yet, but I did receive an email from the guy who sold me the regulator on ebay. He already issued me a full refund and doesn't even want me to send the regulator back to him. I guess I got a free secondary regulator to go with my free cornie kegs...the search continues to find a primary co2 regulator.
 
So what finally made you decide it would not work, are you saying the barb still wont come off? I thought you had pictures posted of the psi specs. Well I guess you could sell it, but you'll probably use it some day.
 
According to the images at their website, the regulator model number is DTR1101, which is listed as a secondary regulator.
 
Bippity Boppity Boop, just ordered this from kegcowboy.com for $33:

kegcowboy.jpg
 
OK Pizzaman, looks like you are on the right track with solid equipment. Check the setup for leaks once you get it assembled, or you will have an empty co2 bottle fast.
cheers
 
Is anyone ever really done with their kegging system? Always upgrading and improving....?


[EDIT]It appears this post was edited :mug:[/EDIT]
 
Pizza
Without resources and feedback from places like this, it would be easy to under or over carb your beer, blow stuff up, accidentally empty a freshly filled co2 tank, have a keg leak out all it's beer into the fridge when you are not looking, have foaming issues because of line length and ID, serving temp, temp differences, etc. Even with all these resources it can be daunting, like , "why is my beer not carbed in 2 days" or "this beer is all foam", I have a beer gusher, etc.

If you want to force carb your beer a simple proven method is to set you regulator at 10-15 psi (depending on the style), attach it to a 36-40 degree keg, and let it sit for a week or two.
Other methods include shaking and higher pressures, and all things in between.
 
I hadn't planned on force carbing my beer...at least not until I can afford a kegerator and a larger co2 tank. I have seen mini-fridges for as cheap as $20 on craigslist which I'm sure I can afford, but the cheapest I've seen for a 5# tank is $60 (w/shipping) at aquariumplants.com
 
I'll be using the 9oz co2 with the regulator to dispense beer from the kegs. Until I get a kegerator and larger co2 tank I'll be naturally carbonating them using priming sugar.
 
Pizzaman
When you go on a co2 tank search, look for local fire safety equipment dealers. They usually have reconditioned co2 tanks for cheap, like 15# for $50, and that's hydro tested and full. Fills are cheaper at those shops, too.
 
Pizzaman
When you go on a co2 tank search, look for local fire safety equipment dealers. They usually have reconditioned co2 tanks for cheap, like 15# for $50, and that's hydro tested and full. Fills are cheaper at those shops, too.

Thanks for the tip, a quick google-maps search turned up 10 'fire safety equipment' businesses in san antonio. I'll start calling on monday. :mug:
 
Pizzaman, did you ever see my post a few pages back on the Craigslist find. It was a 15# tanks with co2 still in it.
 
Pizzaman, did you ever see my post a few pages back on the Craigslist find. It was a 15# tanks with co2 still in it.

I did see that and thought it was a good deal, it was gone within 2 days though. I won't be buying a tank or fridge until at least early june.
 
Finished CO2 Adapter:

co2-adapter1.JPG


Close Up:

co2-adapter2.JPG


9oz CO2 Tank: $10
Universal Fill Adapter(the green thing): $7
1/8" Brass Nipple: $2
1/8" X 1/2" Brass Bushing: $3
Shiny New Kegging System: $priceless

Now if only I could figure out how to get my vinyl tubing to fit over the outlet of the regulator I would be in business...
 
Pizzaman - I hate to say this..... Brass is not rated for high pressure. Use SS or AL that's rated correctly. The brass is way too soft.

I have seen brass fittings blow at 800PSI under hydraulic pressures at work. Too often maintenance guys can't find the right SS fitting in the stockroom and mistakenly opt for brass fittings. Its no good.

Finished CO2 Adapter:

co2-adapter1.JPG


Close Up:

co2-adapter2.JPG


9oz CO2 Tank: $10
Universal Fill Adapter(the green thing): $7
1/8" Brass Nipple: $2
1/8" X 1/2" Brass Bushing: $3

Shiny New Kegging System: $priceless

Now if only I could figure out how to get my vinyl tubing to fit over the outlet of the regulator I would be in business...
 
i see......

I think people see yellow-zinc coated steel fittings and think brass is OK. The color is similar.

If you find steel hydraulic fittings they are OK.

Don't use the standard pipe either, its also low pressure. Its a cheap soft iron for easy cutting and threading on the fly. The hydraulic steels are alloyed to provide strength. Probably has a mix of iron, chrome, nickel and some other stuff.

If you go to your local hardware store make sure they give you high pressure stuff. Rated for something over 2000 psi. If they don't know ask somebody who does or goe some place else. An industrial supply place will, maybe some auto parts place will have them.

We have an auto parts place close by that makes hydraulic hose and they have all of the fittings you need for high pressure. Its pricey, but definitely worth it long term.
 
It looks like this guy is using a brass compression fitting just like I have: http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/biggasser.html The silver 2" nipple looks like stainless, but the yellowish bushing attached directly to the regulator looks just like my brass bushing.

I just sent him an email to confirm if it is brass or brass plated, and to find out if he has had any problems with it. Would they list it as a "brass compression fitting" if it was simply brass plated?
 
Its probably solid brass, but just because he didn't have problems doesn't mean its a good idea to duplicate the set-up.

If it was mine I'd get the steel fittings. Rather not take the risk. Imagine a druck buddy kicking over the regulator and that sucker pops. The shards might injure him or an innocent bystander.

Not much is brass plated to my knowledge, especially fittings.

The gauges have brass threads but the orifice leading to the bourdon tube is very small so its got high burst strength. The brass is used on a gauge so it doesn't bugger up regulator threads. Its more common to replace gauges than regulators and its easier to orient the face of the gauge as well. You can snug them down good.
 
If a druck buddy kicks over the regulator they deserve a shard of brass in their face. As for the innocent bystander I'll offer them free homebrew for life as an out of court settlement, or just out run them.
 
If a druck buddy kicks over the regulator they deserve a shard of brass in their face. As for the innocent bystander I'll offer them free homebrew for life as an out of court settlement, or just out run them.

That's good! Remind me not to drink with you!! :D

Maybe I can fake the damage and injury for a life-time of free beer. Yes - That's what I'll do.
 
I might do that paintball tank adapter thing. The larger, female nut/fitting is usually flat bottomed and requires a flat seal so you don't loose your gas.

W/o seeing the threads I'm guessing you used a straight/tapered threaded brass fitting. No flat gas seal.

After further thought definitely do the adapter.
 
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