Noob building a coffin keezer

[David Killion]

Hey everyone, happy to be here to share my project. I'm new to brewing and just recently started researching kegerators --- and landed upon the idea of a keezer which better supports my needs.

After brewing two batches (a Dunkelweizen & Honeyweizen) and doing a couple ciders, I realized I want to be able to showcase my handiwork in something other than a bottle. I evaluated the simple collar keezer but the wife and I both agreed that we want this beverage dispenser to be out in the open, not hidden away in our hobby room or garage. Therefore, it needs to integrate well into our design - but our 15cf Whirlpool chest freezer (even after painting black) just doesn't do that.

This freezer fits very nicely in an alcove created by our stairs and we are confident we can build something that looks like fits in. It will sport 7 Perlick faucets with the idea that 4 will be on CO2 for beer/cider and the other 3 could be on Nitrogen for wine or stout.

Below are a couple of pictures to show where this will be sitting in our house. We're going to use Poplar as the wood stained closer the cherry color on the stairs.



Below shows the tile and backsplash we have chosen.



And, I put it on casters, but didn't take pictures.



Advice always welcomed.

 

[David Killion]

As a first step, I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to act as the base. My plans are being hand sketched onto a piece of paper and then drawn onto the plywood base. I'm about 80% confident in what I'm doing - but carpentry isn't my thing, so I'm going to get everything built (including the coffin) before drilling the 3-1/2" holes for the PVC through the freezer top.

Unfortunately, the height of the drip tray is about 3/8" taller than the tile which will be next to it - so I used a router to recess it down. It is still just a little bit higher than the tile, but a little thinset will be used to mount the tile which will make it about flush. My super smart wife mentioned we should seal the plywood just in case something gets through - that's why it is a little shiny. I designed it in order to limit the number of cuts on the tile so those pieces in front of the drip tray require nothing. A couple of small pieces for the sides of the drip tray and behind the drip tray will be less visible, but will need to be cut on my wet tile saw. We are using bone color unsanded grout for the backsplash and also have matching caulk to seal around some of the other areas to keep it very clean and hopefully water (beer) proof.

The border around all 3 sides will be 5" of poplar stained cherry. It will have a slight overhang on the front and right side of the freezer so we can slide a front facia underneath it by lifting the lid just a little.

 

[David Killion]

Finished building the coffin today.



I need to cut the trim pieces, then it is the wife's hands to match the stain.

 

[David Killion]

Cut the trim pieces



Then routered the edges.



Next up - front and side panel - then the wifey is going to stain it "black cherry" and varnish.

 

[Ckalnasy]

Looking great so far David!

 

[David Killion]

Added a plug to the back of the coffin, so now I have a surge protector accessible when pushed up against the wall.

 

[Jtk78]

This looks great so far. I'm sure it will be beautiful when your done.

 

[mirthfuldragon]

I'm about 80% confident in what I'm doing - but carpentry isn't my thing

Your mitered corners and routed edges say otherwise - nicely done. Looks really clean to me.

 

[John Paul Stoddard]

Warning: Expressed Personal preference
I would have shortened the height of that the Coffin fit under the Staircase Moulding.

Great Work

 

[mirthfuldragon]

Warning: Expressed Personal preference
I would have shortened the height of that the Coffin fit under the Staircase Moulding.

Great Work

What has been seen . . . cannot been unseen. Also, you may want to check your tap-to-drip tray clearance - I cannot fill a growler from my kegerator taps, which is super-frustrating because I have to open it all up, disconnect the tap, connect a picnic tap and filler, then reverse it all again.

 

[John Paul Stoddard]

What has been seen . . . cannot been unseen. Also, you may want to check your tap-to-drip tray clearance - I cannot fill a growler from my kegerator taps, which is super-frustrating because I have to open it all up, disconnect the tap, connect a picnic tap and filler, then reverse it all again.

As Long as a pint glass fits under taps...Growlers could be filled with a Tube

 

[mirthfuldragon]

As Long as a pint glass fits under taps...Growlers could be filled with a Tube

My growler filler spout and tube don't fit under the taps with my growler. It would be a lot simpler if my tower was another 3" taller, then I would not have to fiddle with anything - the tube would go to the bottom of the growler, the growler would sit on the top without an issue, and filling would be a straightforward affair. If I fill with a tube from the tap, I would have to use a longer tube and snake it around a bit. The whole process is frustrating and would have been easier with a slightly taller tower. Hence, my recommendation.

 

[David Killion]

I have grappled with the height of the coffin as well; went back and forth with the wife on it. It would be easy to fix, but I’m not going to. It is all based on the size of a certain beer glass we have. Thanks for pointing it out!

 

[David Killion]

Today I built the front and side panel. The space available to slide the front panel in is much tighter than I thought. I think it looks ok, but I was expecting something a little more unique. It doesn’t matter, I’m moving forward because this piece can be rebuilt easily at any time.



Oddly enough, the biggest struggle is getting the stain right. We want it to match the stairs, but when it does I feel it is too black. Red certainly doesn’t work, and mixing the two colors seems too risky to me.



We had to settle on the stair match which is a Black Cherry Verathane. (The triangle sample on the stairs). Not a perfect match, but really close.



Wife starts staining tomorrow - she claims it is easy, but I’ve never done it and I’m a wee bit paranoid. So much time measuring, building and sanding - I really don’t want to have to rebuild any of it. I trust her. I trust her. I trust her.

 

[David Killion]

Went through one more round of the coffin height discussion with the wifey. We are over it. It’s disappointing, but being able to fill a growler and my favorite glass has trumped the aesthetic part.

 

[David Killion]

Ok, now I’m in need of ideas. The design of the coffin is such that the top will be hinged in the back and open to gain access to regulator valves, thermostat and other serviceable parts. There will be a small gas shock to hold it open.

So here’s the problem - it needs to have a weather tight seal, especially given there will be a fan circulating air back into the freezer. If there is any area that is not sealed the fan will pull ambient air into the coffin.

The only solution I have right now is to install some exposed hardware on the front face to cinch it down on some weather stripping.

Any idea how I can do this without exposed hardware?

 

[John Paul Stoddard]

Went through one more round of the coffin height discussion with the wifey. We are over it. It’s disappointing, but being able to fill a growler and my favorite glass has trumped the aesthetic part.

She will get over it, when you brew her favorite beer.

 

[John Paul Stoddard]

How about countersinking strong Magnets in Lid and coffin edge..Install a trim with weather strip around edges

 

[mirthfuldragon]

The only solution I have right now is to install some exposed hardware on the front face to cinch it down on some weather stripping. Any idea how I can do this without exposed hardware?

I wonder if it is even necessary. The top should be heavy enough to provide a good seal by itself, I would think. Some heavy magnents like @John_Paul_Stoddard suggested would work too.

 

[ancientmariner52]

David, this is beautiful. I love how you've found a purpose for a space that would otherwise be quite useless. I hate to say it, but you did ask for suggestions. Man, you have got to move that outlet out of sight! There, I said it, and I'm not sorry.

 

[Jtk78]

David, this is beautiful. I love how you've found a purpose for a space that would otherwise be quite useless. I hate to say it, but you did ask for suggestions. Man, you have got to move that outlet out of sight! There, I said it, and I'm not sorry.

You may not even need to move it if it wasn't in use. Are there basement stairs going through the door and going under the stairs going up? If so, you may just be able to add an outlet to behind the freezer. I may not have made myself too clear there.

 

[David Killion]

Man, you have got to move that outlet out of sight! There, I said it, and I'm not sorry.

Good eye. The builder put no outlet in that area, so months ago, before I even planned on building a keezer, I installed an outlet there by stealing power from the light switch above. The obvious way for me to get power in this area (without knowing a keezer was going to be in there) was just to drop it in between the same studs where the switches are on. I don't entirely regret this decision because I can't move it further back without some sheetrock & texture repair. As for now, I have a flush mount, angled, white extension cord to help minimize the eye pain. That said, I certainly think it will get moved someday ... probably long after the keezer is built.

You may not even need to move it if it wasn't in use. Are there basement stairs going through the door and going under the stairs going up? If so, you may just be able to add an outlet to behind the freezer. I may not have made myself too clear there.

Unfortunately, there is no power inside that stair basement There is a light, but it comes off of the switch where I stole the power for that outlet.

 

[David Killion]

Stain applied, 2 coats with a little sanding in between for a somewhat distressed appearance. The poplar didn't take stain as consistently across the grain as I had hoped for such an expensive wood (hence, why we went for some distressed look). The maple used for the front and side panel really didn't take stain well at all. While it's not perfect, the color match is good and more work with varnish will really make it pop. The good news is that the large expanses of horizontal surfaces look great, the front panel is by far my least favorite but can easily be redone. We have only applied one coat of varnish so far, much more work here. The stair railing has a super thick glossy finish - so we have our work cut out for us to get the same finish on the keezer. Worst of all, wifey is completely against applying varnish in the house (I don't agree, but I can't blame her), so if I assemble it, we would have to park a car outside while we continued to get the finish right. As for now, we just keep taking the pieces outside for finish work.

It also bears to mention that the front panel recesses back against the freezer more so that there is a depth difference between the front lip and the front panel --- but it won't stay put until I assemble it.

 

[ancientmariner52]

Behlen's has a line of aerosol lacquer toners intended for evening out stain color, among other uses. I think it looks great as is. As an off and on amateur woodworker, I can tell you that the flaws that keep you up at night aren't even noticed by others, and if you point them out, folks wonder what the fuss is about. You're doing fine work!

 

[David Killion]

Behlen's has a line of aerosol lacquer toners intended for evening out stain color, among other uses. I think it looks great as is. As an off and on amateur woodworker, I can tell you that the flaws that keep you up at night aren't even noticed by others, and if you point them out, folks wonder what the fuss is about. You're doing fine work!

You just kind of made my day. Thanks!

 

[mrdauber64]

I love this project! It looks beautiful! I would love to have a keezer in my house!

Quick question, did you add any vents so that the freezer can breathe? Is there any risk of overheating?

 

[David Killion]

Quick question, did you add any vents so that the freezer can breathe? Is there any risk of overheating?

Thanks. The back of the freezer and the side where there are openings from the factory have been preserved. I did notice that when it cycles on for an extended period of time (cooling from ambient down to 34F) the front gets a little warm - but not hot by any stretch. Therefore, by putting the panel in front we are limiting a little bit of heat transfer. One person warned me that this will reduce the life of the freezer, but there are some mitigating factors that make this not really that bad: 1) The freezer is in the house whether the temperature never gets above 80F. & 2) We don't use it as a freezer, it cycles between 34F & 38F. The compressor runs for very little time and long times in between. Bottom line, I'm going to roll the dice on this $400 freezer - I just hope if it fails I can replace it with one exactly the same size so I don't need to rebuild the keezer.

 

[David Killion]

LED, Alexa controlled strip lights installed in the coffin.

 

[David Killion]

Well, it's been a couple weeks and my biggest frustration is varnish. I have tried a very expensive natural bristle, poly foam brushes, 3x poly and wipe on poly and they just won't dry correctly. Brush strokes and little dust particles or air bubbles. Quite literally, some pieces have over 12 coats of poly, each piece has a minimum of 8.

In searching the internet, my next strategy is to sand it with 1000 grit to get brush strokes out - but this dulls the finish even though it is smooth. Then I need to polish it with my random orbital and rubbing compound to get it to shine again. Fingers crossed.

Here is what the varnish looks like. From afar you can't tell, but angle it to the light correctly and you can see the imperfections. This has been incredibly frustrating --- and all i want is to have my beer cold and on tap.