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American Pale Ale Nierra Sevada (Session SNPA Clone)

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Batch Size: 10.00 gal
Boil Size: 12.13 gal
Estimated OG: 1.046 SG
Estimated Color: 6.8 SRM
View attachment 1501
Estimated IBU: 37.4 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Time: 70 Minutes
Total Grain Weight: 17lbs
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Ingredients:
------------
Amount
15.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)
2.00 oz Pearle [6.30%] (70 min)
2.00 oz Cascade [7.00%] (10 min)
1.00 oz Cascade [7.00%] (5 min)
American Yeast (I used Wyeast #1056)
Mash at 154 degrees (F) for 65 minutes. Batch Sparge at 170 degrees for a pre boil volume of 12 gallons.




This looks great. I'd really like to brew it as my first partial mash for a 5G batch. Can someone with some software or knowledge help convert the recipe?
 
Hey there, long time lurker, new to posting! :)

Just wondering, I gave this a shot a few days ago, probably my third AG. Just wondering if you can help me out here?

I brewed up a 5 gallon batch, I used

8.8 pounds of the light, instead of the 7.5 the crystal and cara I used the same.
.5 pounds each.

I tried to hit 5.5 gallons post boil volume (to account for deadspace / trub in the brew pot) but ended up with probably 6 - 6.2 gallons in the pot. I couldnt get the brew to the boil like I expected it to, and as such did not evap as much as I thought. A few questions, my OG was only 1.041... is this a problem? also, I mashed at exactly the medium body range but when I went to mash out, only raised it to a full body mash temp, where it sat 10 minutes.... doh!

whats your thoughts? P.S, sample tasted awesome, a really nice bitter hit to the lips, then mellows out (this was pure wort) and its bubbling away really nice with safale us-05, and smells awesome. Cannot wait to try none the less!
 
...whats your thoughts? P.S, sample tasted awesome, a really nice bitter hit to the lips, then mellows out (this was pure wort) and its bubbling away really nice with safale us-05, and smells awesome. Cannot wait to try none the less!
I think it will turn out great.

The lower gravity just means you can drink more. With a lighter OG, it may need to sit a bit longer for the higher IBU's to mellow some, but this is a hoppy beer by design.

The step mash temp shouldn't be a concern. Your conversion was complete.

:mug:
 
Great. Thanks for the vote of confidence. :) this is a bit off topic, but did i go horribly bad on my efficiency, considering the higher og you got with less malt? Would like to work this out then give this recipe another crack. :)
 
Made this on May 3rd. No perle at LHBS so I hopped like:

.75 11.1% Chinook 60
1.0 4.8% Cascade 15
.5 4.8% Cascade 10
.5 4.8% Cascade 5

3 weeks in primary, straigth to bottle. Pipeline is low so I tried one at 6 days in bottle...outstanding.
 
Ok, I'd like to do this, but I only have Cascade and Centennial hops on hand. Do you think they would go well with this recipe? I was thinking about doing a 1/2 batch. I have 1.5 oz Centennial and most of a pound of Cascade. LHBS is too far away to think about going there and brewing tonight.
 
Ok, I'd like to do this, but I only have Cascade and Centennial hops on hand. Do you think they would go well with this recipe? I was thinking about doing a 1/2 batch. I have 1.5 oz Centennial and most of a pound of Cascade. LHBS is too far away to think about going there and brewing tonight.

Absolutely. :rockin:
 
I attempted to convert this to Extract and scale down to a 5.5 final volume with a 3 gallon boil and this is what Beersmith came up with (amounts adjusted slightly for more sane values):

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
7.00 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 8.89 %
4.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 35.56 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 2.22 %
1.75 oz Pearle [6.30 %] (70 min) Hops 23.9 IBU
1.75 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (10 min) Hops 9.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (5 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast-Ale


The profile looked pretty spot-on to what BierMuncher posted for the AG recipe, except the color was very dark (something like 9.7SRM) of course, extract being dark like that. I tried tinkering with it and subbing in some Extra Pale LME from Austin Home Brew to tone the color down and came up with this (exactly the same except subbing 6 pounds of the Pale for Extra Pale). All the specs are pretty spot on, but what will it do to the taste? Austin Homebrew's "Extra Pale LME" is the Briess Pilsen malt.

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
6.00 lb Extra Pale Liquid Malt Extract (3.0 SRM) Extract 53.33 %
1.00 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 8.89 %
4.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 35.56 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 2.22 %
1.75 oz Pearle [6.30 %] (70 min) Hops 23.9 IBU
1.75 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (10 min) Hops 9.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (5 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
1 Pkgs American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) Yeast-Ale

Anyone have any thoughts?

Probably a dumb noob question but why is there so much more (8 times more) Cara-Pils grain in the extract version than in the AG version ?
 
Probably a dumb noob question but why is there so much more (8 times more) Cara-Pils grain in the extract version than in the AG version ?

it's not a dumb noob question..... it is actually being very observant. the carapils is utilized mostly for head retention in ales... I think 4 lbs is a gigantic mistake. For a 5 - 5.5 gallon batch, you want max 1/2 pound carapils and I would also do a minimum 1/2 pound of the caramel 60 to enhance color and flavor... the original 10 gallon recipe states it lacks a malty flavor..... you might add 1 pound of munich or vienna to the extract version to balance it out and give more maltiness... that would give you 2 pounds of grains to steep or mini-mash...If steeping, I would divide the crushed grain into two grain bags to double the exposure to water and osmotic action to the grains... Sierra Nevada is known for its perle bittering hops and cascade-like aroma/flavoring. A good substitute for me as a hop head (but maybe not for you) would be to save your cascades you planned to use in dryhopping, for future flavoring/aroma recipes, and replace it in the pale ale clones with an ounce of columbus (formerly tomahawk, and off-the scale 14.4 AAU's) or any other hop you enjoy sticking your nose into, in the secondary as your dryhop..... yummy!!... It's your beer, make it smell as good as you want... good catch on the 4 pounds of carapils... hope this helps... Beersmith always gives problems when converting recipes due to a wide variety of inherent inputting problems.... cheers!
 
This recipe is very good. I made this beer recently and will definitely be making it again.

Thanks for the recipe
 
I'll be brewing this one up this weekend. I've brewed Ed's Haus Pale several times, which I like but I want something a bit stronger with more of a bite. It never gets that cold here, but in the winter I sure do like the hoppy bitter beers more. I'll be finishing this beer with my home-grown cascade hops. One keg will get another 1-2 ounces of my Cascades for a dry-hop. I'll post back with my results!
 
Hi, Biermuncher (and anyone else who wants to chime in!)

First off...sorry for the essay; bare with me if you will!

Wanted to ask you a question about this particular recipe (your SNPA clone). A little bit about me...I've been brewing for a little over 2 years. I've been doing all grain for about 8 months. I'm just getting to the point where my gravities are coming out where I want them...so that's good. I use a yeast starter and I use a son-of-a-fermentation chiller with a digital temperature probe to maintain fermentation temps. I force carb my beer and serve it on tap...and sometimes bottle a few as travellers (beer gun or just straight from the tap if I'm feeling lazy!).

I've used 3 of your recipes so far (either exactly as you laid them out, or as a base for customizations): Centennial Blonde, Blue Balls, and OktoberFAST. All of them have been awesome...and I thank you for that!

So...here's my question. The Sierra Nevada clone has really become my Everest. By this I mean that it has become a seemingly insurmountable challenge--and a source of great frustration. I've tried to clone this relatively simple beer about 6 times total (half of them have been extract + PM; the other half all-grain). In my 2 most recent attempts, I used a recipe that I got from BYO magazine...and in the latest of said attempts, I hit the OG right where I wanted. FG was a little bit lower than expected but I suspect that this was because of lower mash temps than planned (152, rather than 154). I didn't do a mashout for this last batch...just fly sparged with about 180-185 degree water (yes, this is higher than the 170 degree goal, but I'm trying to account for potential heat loss).

Anyway, each of these attempts has come out relatively similar...it's decent and for the most part drinkable, but it just tastes like homebrew. The most recent has a little more bitterness than SNPA, but no where NEAR as nice of a malt aroma or taste. There is a certain caramel sweetness that you get on the nose with an actual SNPA...and this is very much absent from my cloning attempts--Not even CLOSE. Mine also taste more 'dirty'. Hard to explain...I've dry hopped with whole cascades using a mesh bag in the secondary.

I have not yet tried your recipe but yours looks pretty similar to the ones I have tried. In a nutshell, I'm coming to you for some advice because I've brewed your other beers with fantastic results. So, I trust your opinion when it comes to taste, etc. And specifically because you seem to think your recipe for SNPA is pretty good!

Can you think of anything off the top of your head that I'm doing WRONG? Or maybe just some additional insight?

I want to make it clear that my goal isn't necessarily to clone SNPA perfectly per se...but rather to perfect my techniques. SNPA just happens to be a beer that I enjoy thoroughly. Lemme know when you get a chance...thanks, man!

Here's my recipe and some of the results (I use BeerSmith):
10 lbs 4.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 94.21 %
10.1 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.79 %
0.18 oz Magnum [14.40 %] (60 min) Hops 8.2 IBU
0.70 oz Pearle [8.20 %] (60 min) Hops 18.2 IBU
0.75 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Cascade [7.50 %] (15 min) Hops 11.8 IBU
0.75 oz Cascade [7.50 %] (0 min) Hops -
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [Starter 35 ml] Yeast-Ale

Est Original Gravity: 1.055 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.055 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Measured Final Gravity: 1.007 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.57 %
Actual Alcohol by Vol: 6.26 %
Bitterness: 38.3 IBU
Calories: 241 cal/pint
Est Color: 7.5 SRM
 
I've got this one in the boil kettle right now. It just worked out that I had all the right stuff sitting in front of me, so I decided to try it.
 
Tapped a keg of this last night and I gotta say it is one fantastic session beer! It was a mere 3 weeks old and tasted amazing. I have a 10 gal batch of this planned for Feb.
 
I just racked this out of primary today (I brewed it on Dec 20 th) and was thinking about dry hopping it. Amarillo maybe????
 
I just racked this out of primary today (I brewed it on Dec 20 th) and was thinking about dry hopping it. Amarillo maybe????

I can vouch for that. I dry-hopped this recipe with 1 oz of Amarillo for 1 week and it was DEEE-licious! It went too damn fast though...guess I'll have to brew up another batch.
 
Hey guys, trying to brew up a 2.5 gal. extract batch so that I'm able to do a full boil in my small pot. I was wondering if anyone had the extract clone recipe that they could then input into a brewing formula program to get the numbers. Wish I had one of the programs myself, so thanks so much for any help that anyone can give! Also, is there a way to figure out a 2.5 gal. recipe from a 5 gal.? I'm assuming that you can't just cut it in half, at least for the hops.
 
Help second batch all grain , pick everything and got 04 white labs yeast it is a Irish ale .Will this be ok or should I get something else???? Just starting to mash Thanks great website
 
Homebrew tastes good, though...

Hmmm...well you're entitled to your opinion. I guess I should have qualified that by saying that it tastes like less-than-high-quality homebrew. Anyhow, turns out that my thermometer was a POS and was giving me higher than accurate readings. Therefore, I was mashing too low and the beer was coming out WAY too dry. Used a new thermometer for my last batch and problem solved!
 
bueller?

"i have williamette, us goldings, and hersbrucker.....

which one would be a good substitute?"
 
bueller?

"i have williamette, us goldings, and hersbrucker.....

which one would be a good substitute?"

Unfortunately, none of those will get you an SNPA-like beer. Will and goldings are great for English pale ales and hersbrucker is a noble hop.

Try to get your hands on one of the American hops like Cascade, Centennial or Amarillo.

If you can't go ahead and use the goldings for bittering and the Will fro late additions. you'll end up with a nice English pale ale.
 
fair enough. thanks!

i just bought a pound each of those three, so I can't buy any more hops until those are gone. aka, next year, lol
 
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