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New Kegerator Connection

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Lemon

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Jun 19, 2011
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I just got a new Kegerator. (yeah).

The tower is plumbed to a "faucet" connection in the fridge.
I have ball Lock kegs.

Do I cut the "Faucet" and plumb to a ball lock, or add an adapter (quick disconnect)? If I need an adapter any recommendations are welcome.

Free Beer at my place for the best help. Thanks.
(I'll add pics if this is too confusing).
 
What is the best way to connect these?

The first connects to the kegerator tower.

The second connects to the keg (ball lock)

I think I can cut off the keg faucet connect off ( pic 1) and plumb the ball lock, but I don't want to regret my choice for the next decade...


(first day kegging ...)

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  • tower.JPG
    tower.JPG
    89.2 KB
  • keg.JPG
    keg.JPG
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for the 2nd pic (1/4 ID clear line with a clamp) for the 1st pic can you post a pic of the other end?
 
I would wait for others to chime in.....it looks like the other end is already connected to a line?
 
The first pic is the hose barb that connects to a sanke coupler. You can cut that off and connect it to the ball lock fitting with a clamp. However I would replace liquid line with 10' of 3/16" ID tubing. You will get less foaming.
 
The first pic is the hose barb that connects to a sanke coupler. You can cut that off and connect it to the ball lock fitting with a clamp. However I would replace liquid line with 10' of 3/16" ID tubing. You will get less foaming.

10 feet? Wouldn't 5 ft be sufficient?
 
Just try the 5 foot lines but u might have a lot of foam ...if that is the case ..u can try the 10 feet of beer line I bet it help with the foaming
 
Here's a great article on keg balancing that I used on my own system: http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/

In short: Ideal Length of hose = (Serving PSI - 1 - (Height of tap above Keg/2))/Resistance of tubing

3/16" Vinyl tubing resistance = 3psi/ft
1/4" Vinyl tubing resistance = 0.85psi/ft

So if 5' of 1/4" tubing is what came with the system, 2 ft rise from keg to tap and you plan on using 12psi at 40F, plugging that into the equation means with 5' of 1/4" you'll have 6.75 psi at the tap which is a lot and going to result in tons of foaming. 10' of 3/16" using the same other assumptions means you'll possibly have too much resistance and no or very very little beer will come out at all. At 12psi and 40F (2.5 vols of CO2) ideal line lengths would be 3.4' of 3/16" (rounding to 5 would be fine) or 11.8' of 1/4" tubing.

Of course those line lengths are thrown out the window if you plan on a different temperature and psi.
 
DJOCONNELL: Why not five feet? Simple it pours better. I have tried different lengths of tubing, different diameters, restricters and dip tube inserts.

Basically 10' of 3/16" tubing is the simplest way of combating lousy pours. This combo has worked flawlessly in the six kegerators I have built. You can try shorter lines but its easier to start with a longer line and shorten it a foot at a time until you get to your perfect pour on your setup.

If you still have foamy pours than there are other issues such as o-ring leaks, over carbed beer, warm lines, etc.
 
Thank you all for the great advice.
I'm getting 10' lines and going to final assembly next week.

You're all invited over for a beer the week after.
 
DJOCONNELL: Why not five feet? Simple it pours better. I have tried different lengths of tubing, different diameters, restricters and dip tube inserts.

Basically 10' of 3/16" tubing is the simplest way of combating lousy pours. This combo has worked flawlessly in the six kegerators I have built. You can try shorter lines but its easier to start with a longer line and shorten it a foot at a time until you get to your perfect pour on your setup.

If you still have foamy pours than there are other issues such as o-ring leaks, over carbed beer, warm lines, etc.

It is Gjoconnell. 10 feet lines is a gaggle of lines I run 5 ft without issues...shrug shoulders....to each his own.
 
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