NEW EZboil unit with automated step mashing and boiling

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Jayjay1976

Jayjay1976

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Hey I just ordered one of these, and since I couldn't find a mention of it on HBT I thought I would start a discussion thread.

The DSPR310 is based on the DSPR300 but adds programmable step-mashing capabilities. $79.95 at auberins.com

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=670

I'm building my first electric brew controller around this unit, which will drive 2x2000W elements from brewhardware.com to BIAB 5g batches in a bayou classics 11g kettle.

DSPR310.jpg
 
Wow I was not aware of this new model that had support for step mashing. Looks like is just came out, website says: Date Added: Sunday 14 May, 2017

Reading over the directions the step mashing looks easy enough to setup but the encoding for when to trigger the relays looks crazy.
 
I was actually talking to them about this months before this was released and they e-mailed me about it when they released it. Looking at the manual, I feel like some things could be simplified. As brewers we just want to easily set the controls and go. Maybe I'm just overthinking things and should just buy one and see how it goes.
 
I'm still trying to figure out the difference in stop and end. It doesn't make any sense....if you select end does it just completely stop and not go on to the next step???
 
The way I read it, when it hits stop, it holds the last temp till you change something; end will reset the mash routine and turn off power to the elements. I've spent just a few minutes testing my setup and couldn't figure out how to easily shift into boil mode from mashing, I wish the manual included some step by step instructions for typical routines. The manual seems like it was written by and for process engineers. Frustrating for a beginner to get up and running. Once I get it all down pat I'm sure it will become second nature, but those raspberry pi controllers with windows programming interface are awfully alluring.
 
Let us know how it goes. Do you have to enter a bunch of stuff before the element will turn on for boil mode? I could do without the timers and the ramp up temp setting and all that. It seems that life would be easier for the brewer if you could just enter in a desired temp(couple degrees below boil) and then just use the output control to control the boil. The temp sensor is fairly useless while boiling(other then showing your current temp).
 
Honda88 said:
Let us know how it goes. Do you have to enter a bunch of stuff before the element will turn on for boil mode? I could do without the timers and the ramp up temp setting and all that. It seems that life would be easier for the brewer if you could just enter in a desired temp(couple degrees below boil) and then just use the output control to control the boil. The temp sensor is fairly useless while boiling(other then showing your current temp).
Click to expand...

If you want simple, go with the DSPR120. You can do manual step mashes, but not programmed ones.

Brew on :mug:
 
I'm going to get in touch with auber and hopefully get to grips with the operating sequences then publish my findings here. I truly believe this is a wonderful piece of equipment and worth the learning curve, steep as it may seem. Aren't there any home brewers on staff there? If not they should look into collaborating with hobbyists on future products like this.

BTW this is not meant to slam auber in any way, they are the gold standard in brewing controllers as far as I'm concerned.

Disclaimer #2 I'm also not very sophisticated when it comes to electronics. My VCR has been blinking 12:00 since the mid-80s, just carn't seem to figure it out.
 
Well these are nerdy products made by nerdy people so you get complex things. I like stuff like this but making things more complicated and time consuming doesn't really appeal to me either.
 
The_Bishop said:
I've been using a DSPR120 for a while now. Works great.
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I watched your forum announcement lol. I was excited about this new controller coming out but I'm glad I looked at the manual first before buying it. Hopefully this thread stays alive and we can get more feedback on the new controller.
 
Whats the verdict on these? I am looking to possibly go electric BIAB and looking for a nice simple automated solution. Anyone build a panel and running these yet?
 
Control box is in progress. By dry run, I meant I powered the DSPR310 and started messing with it. I'll post pics of my current design next time I'm on the PC
 
Here are a couple pics of my controller; inside are 2 40W SSRs driving twin 1500W elements. SSRs are cooled by the custom heatsink, the three toggle switches control each element and an outlet for my wort pump. This setup requires plugging the two power cables into receptacles on separate circuits to avoid tripping the breaker. Heats up plenty fast for my taste, and isn't limited to 20A circuits. If I get bored with the 1500W elements I can one day upgrade them to 2000W without changing anything else.

20170622_204015.jpg


20170622_204054.jpg


20170602_193248.jpg
 
Here is the schematic I followed to build my controller. It's an adaptation of the original design by P-J to accomodate the DSPR310. Ignore the untested note, it's been tested and works well. I chose a 6"x6"x4" junction box because the 8x8x4 was out of stock, everything barely fit and my switch and controller layout came out sideways in order to have the heatsink end up on top. If I had it to do again, I would definitely choose a larger enclosure.

Auberin-wiring1-a4-simple-1 DSPR310.jpg
 
Jay - are switches #1 and #2 necessary? Or are they just for protection against dry firing?
 
BWingate said:
Jay - are switches #1 and #2 necessary? Or are they just for protection against dry firing?
Click to expand...

Switches #1 & #2 are needed to provide positive disconnect for line voltage/current. SSR's have enough leakage to provide a good shock, and they usually fail in the "on" condition, so you want to be able to disconnect them in the case of failure. You always want a mechanical switch in addition to an SSR. In my designs, I always put the mechanical disconnect (switch or contactor) on the source side of the SSR, rather than the load side as shown in the diagram in this thread. This isolates more of the circuitry when open, so is just good practice in general.

Brew on :mug:
 
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doug293cz said:
Switches #1 & #2 are needed to provide positive disconnect for line voltage/current. SSR's have enough leakage to provide a good shock, and they usually fail in the "on" condition, so you want to be able to disconnect them in the case of failure. You always want a mechanical switch in addition to an SSR. I my designs, I always put the mechanical disconnect (switch or contactor) on the source side of the SSR, rather than the load side as shown in the diagram in this thread. This isolates more of the circuitry when open, so is just good practice in general.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...

I did wire my switches on the source side of the SSR's on Doug's advice, and they are intended to prevent dry firing. It's also nice to be able to fiddle with the controller programming, etc. without risk of accidentally firing the element, dry or otherwise.
 
Hey Jay, that's a pretty awesome little setup that looks like just what I want to build. have a parts list or more info on your build? diagram was great
 
I'll try to put a BOM together, though I'm dreading the final price tag. This has cost a lot more than I'd hoped so far, and I'm still buying stuff in preparation for my first batch. Just dropped $75 last weekend on copper and fittings building a cleanable CFC. Still need fermenters, more hoses, brew bag, caps, a sack of grain, hops, yeast, whirlfloc, etc. etc. etc... UGH. This hobby so far is just as expensive as rc planes, boats, my mini reef tank, and don't get me started on cyclekarts. I do love beer tho.

Did I mention I've only brewed one single batch so far? A 1g all grain kit of a pale ale, which tasted like band-aids. Somehow that experience got me hooked, I hope my first batch on this rig is at least palatable.
 
I'd tend to disagree with that. Something that's 'equivalent' of the system I bought is $1k+. Even with the changes I made here and there, I don't have $1k tied up in my system.
 
Summerland said:
I think what you want to do is go for this setup:

https://brausupply.com/collections/biab-systems

Everything you need is included, and it's modular so if anything breaks it can be easily replaced. It's not "cheap," but it's priced right around what you would spend building it yourself and it's all ready for you to brew.
Click to expand...
I agree on your first 2 points.

But I priced those out a while back and it IS pretty "Cheap" if you build it yourself using all the same low cost components they use..

The $650 sale price setup is less than $300 in hardware and can be built in a few hrs time. For some folks they would rather spend it and have someone else do it for many reasons which is fine but the point is its not priced around the same as if you would build it yourself so lets not kid ourselves with that statement.

Like Bishop pointed out, My home brewing setup would cost me over 10 grand if I bought all the commercially available equivalent components vs the 2.5-3k or so I have in everything including the conicals and glycol/heating setup and all the extra parts I upgraded along the way to tweak and build it the way I found works better over the course of using it which is a big factor here vs using someone elses cookie cutter design.
 
Honda88 said:
How does it perform????
Click to expand...

Haven't had time to do another test run yet, waiting till I have my counterflow chiller all hooked up so I can benchmark the entire process. If this setup works I'll post photos of the whole thing, since it's self-contained, on wheels, and can fit in a closet or the corner of a laundry room when not in use.

SWMBO and I are celebrating our 16th anniversary is this week, so no extra funds this pay period to pick up fermenters, sack of pilsner malt, etc. so I'm at least a month away from brewing actual beer.... I started building late last October so I'm coming up on one year of perpetual suspense. I have amassed enough beer bottles for about 3 batches though, including a dozen champagne bottles for something Belgian :D
 
I feel ya I'm just finishing up my tables and haven't even built my controller yet....
 
Okay. I read through the user manual for this unit and really liked it except for it wasn't totally up to par imo.
I emailed Auberins with some requests. The new SW revision now has 8 mash steps an it can start a program as soon as it gets power, instead of 6 steps and you manually had to start it with the press of a button before. The last one is a setting you can turn on/off. Kudos To Auberins, this only took 24 hrs. Excellent.

The unit with the new FW is called DSPR310A. Even though I feel it should be called DSPR310S, S for Smellyglove.
 
Smellyglove said:
Okay. I read through the user manual for this unit and really liked it except for it wasn't totally up to par imo.
I emailed Auberins with some requests. The new SW revision now has 8 mash steps an it can start a program as soon as it gets power, instead of 6 steps and you manually had to start it with the press of a button before. The last one is a setting you can turn on/off. Kudos To Auberins, this only took 24 hrs. Excellent.

The unit with the new FW is called DSPR310A. Even though I feel it should be called DSPR310S, S for Smellyglove.
Click to expand...

Did you upgrade your firmware then? Otherwise I'm not reading your comment correctly.
 
Jayjay1976 said:
Did you upgrade your firmware then? Otherwise I'm not reading your comment correctly.
Click to expand...

I don't own this unit yet. AFAIK I got it as an option when I'd like to order one, I have to write DSPR310A with the order.
 
Honda88 said:
8 steps lol what for?
Click to expand...

I actually asked them for seven steps as I sometimes do six for my hefeweizens, and for it to hold one of the steps until user continues the program manually it would take seven steps, as the hold function consume one step. But they managed to squeeze in one more.
 
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Well when you get it and brew with it you should let us all know how it goes.
 
Honda88 said:
Well when you get it and brew with it you should let us all know how it goes.
Click to expand...

I will. I live in EU and odered wits USPS so it might take a while to get it.

I recieved an email from Auberins the other day, and they changed it from A to B, as the last letter in the model number. I believe Im getting the first unit sold of these new ones so i hope there are no bugs.
 

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