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New digital solid state power relay for boil regulation

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Finally got the new controller up and running in my new box. It's very simple and works very well. I have an LED indicator on my panel to show when the element is actually firing and it looks like a strobe light. I have my PID and the boil controller using the same SSR so no need for an additional SSR or SSVR. I took a switch and attached two NO and two NC switch blocks, one for each controller so that only one is on at a time. I am curious to see how the boil regulator affects the life of the SSR but as of now it looks like a win.
 
One of the HBT members asked me to describe how I used the boil controller with the PID on the same SSR so Ill post a little how-to:
I used the wiring diagram provided by ebrewsupply.com for this item: 30a BIAB kit This is the stock wiring diagram that I modified for my panel.

Basically, I took the two low-voltage wires from the PID and ran it to a NC switch block and then ran the two low-voltage wires from the boil controller and ran it to a NO switch block and attached both blocks to the same switch (the only black 2-position switch on the panel in the center top). On the opposite sides of the switch blocks, I jumped the NO sides to the NC sides (keeping continuity for + and -) and then ran to the SSR.

This allows only one controller to have continuity to the SSR at a time without using relays or contactors. I have tested it and used it without any problems.

The pictures aren't the greatest but hopefully I showed the general idea at work here.

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Basically, I took the two low-voltage wires from the PID and ran it to a NC switch block and then ran the two low-voltage wires from the boil controller and ran it to a NO switch block and attached both blocks to the same switch (the only black 2-position switch on the panel in the center top). On the opposite sides of the switch blocks, I jumped the NO sides to the NC sides (keeping continuity for + and -) and then ran to the SSR.

.

I did the same. Took a 3 way selector switch (on - off - on). Put 3 sets of NO contacts on it (1 set each for power and the 2 SRR wires). This was suggested by someone over @ the electric brewery and it works great. And yes it does look like a strobe light.

I attached my wiring diagram though mine is horrible/sloppy and hand drawn. The SSR wires are also wired (Crossed) incorrectly in the digram just fyi

wiring diagram.jpg
 
I installed one of these Auber DSP's for boil kettle control in my panel a couple of months ago, replacing a regular PWM. It was an easy swap with a built-in DC output for SSR control and the ability to use either 120v or 240v input power. The visual display and easy to adjust knob make it far easier to use than my Auber 2352 PIDs when they are in manual mode. There is no comparison, the DSP is much easier to use in this power-regulating mode for boil kettle use. I do recommend it.
 
I was pretty much sold on using this for my control panel build (a Kal clone) but have flip-flopped back to the 2352 for a few reasons.

1 - To be able to stop just short of boiling and be notified. I was willing to do without this feature, as nice as it is.

2 - To be able to control temps for a hopstand. This was one of the big ones.

3 - So that I could use both my HLT and BK for sous vide at different temps. I was done thinking about it. I'll give up the ease of use of a dial for multiple valuable functionalities.

For me that meant installing an RTD temp probe in my BK when I wouldn't have had I gone with the boil controller.
 
I was pretty much sold on using this for my control panel build (a Kal clone) but have flip-flopped back to the 2352 for a few reasons.

1 - To be able to stop just short of boiling and be notified. I was willing to do without this feature, as nice as it is.

2 - To be able to control temps for a hopstand. This was one of the big ones.

3 - So that I could use both my HLT and BK for sous vide at different temps. I was done thinking about it. I'll give up the ease of use of a dial for multiple valuable functionalities.

For me that meant installing an RTD temp probe in my BK when I wouldn't have had I gone with the boil controller.
FYI the mypin TD4 has a manual mode which is easier to set than the auber (from what I've read since I only have experience with the mypins).... and the mypin is only $26 shipped from a us seller vs the auber at $60? and Yes they are both made in china despite all the comments usually found here suggesting the aubers are "American made" and thats why the cost is higher...

I do exactly what you mention in your #1 point and it does come in handy. also the temp probe is nice when chilling.
 
FYI the mypin TD4 has a manual mode which is easier to set than the auber (from what I've read since I only have experience with the mypins).... and the mypin is only $26 shipped from a us seller vs the auber at $60? and Yes they are both made in china despite all the comments usually found here suggesting the aubers are "American made" and thats why the cost is higher...

I do exactly what you mention in your #1 point and it does come in handy. also the temp probe is nice when chilling.

The Auber PID is $46.50.
 
The Auber PID is $46.50.
+ shipping....which can easily be another $10 depending on where you live.... for me the cheapest shipping rate is $7.60 from them for that pid its still more than twice the price.... if you panel has three pids that at least $75 you can save and have the same functionality.
 
+ shipping....which can easily be another $10 depending on where you live.... for me the cheapest shipping rate is $7.60 from them for that pid

I'm getting 90%+ of my control panel electronics from them so my shipping per item will be a lot lower than that.
 
I'm getting 90%+ of my control panel electronics from them so my shipping per item will be a lot lower than that.

well then it makes sense to spend more, but only because you are already spending much more than you need to... The same led indicators switch and probes are all available on amazon for half the cost without additional shipping. And I'm talking about the same products from the same manufacturers...
It adds up. (basically twice the price or more for the same stuff)

this ssr for example.... is a mager ssr rebranded by auber and sold for twice the price.. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

heres the same exact ssr from the same manufactuer with a heatsink for less than half the price of what auber sells just the ssr for with shipping ..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Solid-S...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cbbd7228

the rtd probes are the same deal. twice the price at auber for the same product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3a9ebb24db

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9ebb24dc
 
well then it makes sense to spend more, but only because you are already spending much more than you need to... The same led indicators switch and probes are all available on amazon for half the cost without additional shipping. And I'm talking about the same products from the same manufacturers...
It adds up. (basically twice the price or more for the same stuff)

this ssr for example.... is a mager ssr rebranded by auber and sold for twice the price.. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

heres the same exact ssr from the same manufactuer with a heatsink for less than half the price of what auber sells just the ssr for with shipping ..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Solid-S...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cbbd7228

the rtd probes are the same deal. twice the price at auber for the same product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3a9ebb24db

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9ebb24dc

I appreciate the info.
 
well then it makes sense to spend more, but only because you are already spending much more than you need to... The same led indicators switch and probes are all available on amazon for half the cost without additional shipping. And I'm talking about the same products from the same manufacturers...
It adds up. (basically twice the price or more for the same stuff)

this ssr for example.... is a mager ssr rebranded by auber and sold for twice the price.. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

heres the same exact ssr from the same manufactuer with a heatsink for less than half the price of what auber sells just the ssr for with shipping ..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Solid-S...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cbbd7228

the rtd probes are the same deal. twice the price at auber for the same product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3a9ebb24db

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9ebb24dc

Awesome info!

This is the $26 buck Mypin you were referring to right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130657797579?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Awesome info!

This is the $26 buck Mypin you were referring to right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130657797579?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Not exactly thats the "TA" series... it does not have manual mode... you want the "TD4" -snr or ssr models... they have the manual mode whereas the Ta7 or Ta4 functions the same way but is missing the manual pwm mode... You want to search "TD4 temperature controller" on ebay or amazon. Newegg has many of the models too but I'm not sure if they carry the TD4 series. sometimes they are sold as "APGTEK"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-T...748?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bfdf893c

If someone was really trying to save every penny they could use the ta series for the HLT and Rims but you would ideally want a TD4 for the boil kettle... if I remember right the TD4- SNR has one ssr output and one relay output which can be used to set off an alarm as well but a dedicated alarm output... and the ssr model has 2 ssr outputs. (you only need one unless your controlling multiple elements and even then wiring them that way is optional for this use.
 
I'm probably going to electrify my CIP system and will fire a 5500W element (In my hlt) to keep the solution hot - I could just roll out the whole brewery but that's a pain.

We need a sticky thread with all of these good deals on it.
 
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