New 3 tier Wire shelving

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scootermsp

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Getting near completion of my 3 tier I'm building. I just need to add spigot to the kettle, a pump, and attach high temp hoses. The left side has a copper manifold attached to a 2x4 that I constructed to distribute hot water from the kettle to the HLT and Mash Tun. I may also add some lighting under the top shelf for better visibility during a night brew. Any suggestions? I'm adding thermometer wells to the two coolers so I can have readings without opening them. Thx


 
I like it - if those cut shelves can hold the weight; have you tested that yet? Is it just the middle shelf or also the top one that was cut out?

Looks like zip ties holding the burner in place? I'd switch to small hose clamps fearing the zip ties might get soft and melt. Also, What's holding the tank in place?

I'd also ditch the 2X4 and strap the copper to the shelving frame.

Maybe a fold up table too on the left side in front of the MLT? And some accessory hooks for hanging tools?

But seriously nice and functional and an easy DIY project. I like it.
 
I actually use a very similar system for my gravity brew stand. I have a 3 tier shelf similar to yours but only use the top self for my HLT. I use a short 3 tier wire shelf for my mash tun & then keep my boil kettle/turkey fryer on the ground with shelves adjusted to keep gravity moving everything. After I cool my wort, I move the boil kettle to the top of the short shelf to move wort to fermenting bucket. I do 5-6 gallon boils & the weight that is on the shelves is not a problem, as these are very sturdy. The biggest issue I have is getting my 5 gallon HLT on to the top shelf with it full of 170 degree water so I just move the HLT to a stool that allows me to lift it high with more legs & less back. I'm in my mid 50's with a bad back & shoulders so lifting too much weight is a concern of mine. It is the easiest way I have found to be able to brew by myself without using pumps.

I chose the wire shelves because I have used them in the past to store equipment at work & knew that these would be able to hold a substantial amount of weight. Also these things are fairly inexpensive & are very configurable. At the end of the brew day, you also have a place to store your equipment.
 
Between the 8" to the first shelf and the 12" burner that gives me enough height to siphon into a 20" tall 6.5 G carboy. I built this so I would not have to move hot water around by hand at all. The zip ties are very heavy duty utility company ones and not likely to melt but I like the hose clamp idea. The 2x4 is bolted to all 3 wire shelves and provides lateral support which really doesn't seem to be needed. The copper is mounted on bell hangers which provide enough clearance to install foam insulation on the pipes for safety (hot pipes hurt!). The section I cut out of the area over the kettle was turned 90 degrees and installed under the Mash Tun for additional support . The MT loaded with grain and water should not exceed 60#. The HLT with 8 Gal shouldn't exceed 70#. I plan to also install twelve 1" U-Bolt clamps on each post under each shelf. This will effectively eliminate any possibility of a collapse. Thank you for your ideas, I will use most of them! Here's a better look at the copper pipes and valves. -Cheers
 
Smokinop, as far as storage. When I'm done brewing everything is on the shelves and wheeled off to the side of the garage out of the way. I've got some Stainless "S" hooks I'm putting on to hang my Paddle and Spoons. Even though the castors lock, I'll use some chock blocks to keep the unit from moving during a brew. Thank You
 
That all makes a lot of sense. I agree with you on the 2X4 and stability - not needed there. If anything move it to the center of the shelves but if they don't sag while under load there's really no reason to do so. My real reason for suggesting you eliminate it is aesthetics - it just sticks out. Maybe paint it metallic silver to match the unit?

Where are you mounting the pump? Will you hard plumb the output to the pipe manifold or will you connect those with a hose? I'll suggest a union fitting near the pump if you do hard pipe so it's easy to disassemble for cleaning etc.

Cheers!
 
Mounting the pump in a plastic work box on the bottom shelf. There it will be below the kettle fluid level and not need to be primed. I plan to use cam lock quick disconnects with high temp Silicone hose from the kettle to the pump. Pump outlet will be vinyl with SS braid washer hose. It's NSF rated with a max working temp of 183F. Outlet also will have a 1/2" ball valve.
 
scootermsp said:
Mounting the pump in a plastic work box on the bottom shelf. There it will be below the kettle fluid level and not need to be primed. I plan to use cam lock quick disconnects with high temp Silicone hose from the kettle to the pump. Pump outlet will be vinyl with SS braid washer hose. It's NSF rated with a max working temp of 183F. Outlet also will have a 1/2" ball valve.

Why different hose types? I hear vinyl can part flavor. It's a short run; I'd stick with silicone. Just my opinion though.
 
I'll inquire about that. Perhaps I can just run Silicone only, you make a good point. It also give me the option to heat my HLT over 183F if needed to bring a mash temp up.
 
I just set up my chromed shelf but dont have a burner yet so its simply going to be used for gravity feeding the mash tun and then the wort to the kettle. I will still boil on the stovetop for now.

I want to get a burner, and put it on the lower shelf. My biggest concern though is the shelves use plastic friction fittings for their supports. They snap together around the posts and the shelf slides over them. It can hold a lot of weight but Im worried about the heat making the fittings fail. In fact, I am worried about the heat damaging the mash tun too even though it would be offset. Any problems with heat damage on your setup? Does your setup use plastic for the friction fittings on the shelves as well?
 
Sorry for the delay haven't seen this thread in a while....To answer your question. The Mash Tun and HLT get no heat from the burner. Besides being offset, not above the burner or kettle, the wort acts as a heat sink in that it absorbs most of the heat from the burner which is then given off as steam/vapor. There was no need but I did equip each shelf with a 1 1/8" muffler clamps for safety. Nobody wants gallons of 180F water falling on them. For $12 total it was a cheap insurance policy. With everything full of water/wort at full capacity (I upgraded to a 10 gallon kettle that fit without moving the shelf) the shelves are still well less than half their working load limit.
 
I haven't brewed in a while but that's about to change. I'm making another batch of Dead Ringer IPA. I'm going with an extract this time to jump back in the game. As I mentioned, I up sized my boil kettle to 10 gallons. It's finally warm enough here to do my brewing in my garage. I need my doors open due to the Propane burner. I don't use a kit, I just follow the same recipe from the sheet I got when I ordered it. This time I plan to let it condition in my basement in a Corny keg for about a month. Last time I made it I had it tapped in just over 3 weeks from brew day. It was good, BUT.....about a month and a half later it was liquid GOLD and nearly gone. I brought a growler of it Ice Fishing and nobody believed it was made in my garage...it was THAT good. The key for me was good fermentation temperature control. My 6.5 gallon glass carboy was in a Rubbermaid tub in a water bath with an aquarium heater and monitored with a wireless BBQ thermometer. I'm trying to remember the temp I used, any ideas what the best temp for Safale-05 is? Thanks.
 
Should I just do 2 back to back Five gallon batches? Might be worth my time since everything would be all set-up.....just a thought. I've got 3 Carboys and 3 empty Cornys.
 
I didn't go forward with my plan to use the wire rack.
One professional brewer I sometimes hang out with pointed me to a very good reason that put a halt on it for the time being. I hadn't thought out the exhaust and had no "hood" to use with the shelf on the other side of my kitchen. I don't have the option to brew outside right now, so that pretty much nixed the idea for now.

The muffler clamps are a good insurance, and I agree I wouldn't put any hot liquids on there without insurance. I think the plastic wedges that support the shelves probably are not at risk below 100 C anyway, and if you don't see any evidence of melting that is reasuring.

So its been a while since I entertained the idea, and now I am thinking:
If I use the shelf to set up the burner, HLT, Mash etc... whats stopping me from building an exhaust hood ON the shelf too!? Nothing! I can just run some flexible exhaust duct from the top of it out a window or over to the stove-hood (maybe thats better to handle the condensation than the side of the house above a window). A little aluminum sheeting would do the trick I guess. I wouldn't want to use anything that rusts...

Not going to do that just yet, but gets me thinking...
 
The fan and flexible duct could be had at Dome Hepot or a Hydroponic growing supply store. The hydroponic store will offer more of a selection of fans and flexible ducts. They likely have hoods too so you might be able to buy one cheaper than making one. Let us know how this turns out. :mug::mug::mug:
 
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