New 10 Gallon Herms! Pics!

[BigNastyBrew]

Finally getting some more time to look into this.

I don't understand how you keep the stoppers in place for the thermometers. Are they just shoved in the holes and they hold up?

 

[The Pol]

Finally getting some more time to look into this.

I don't understand how you keep the stoppers in place for the thermometers. Are they just shoved in the holes and they hold up?

Yes, notice that they are inserted from the INside, so the water pressure in the MLT and HLT actually presses the stopper into the hole.

In three years, never had them leak.

 

[JayInJersey]

My Pol Clone eHLT is built and heating up as I type.

It looks to be taking about 90+ minutes to heat 9g of water to 170 but my facet runs cold this time of year...think I started at 60.


Anyway, I've obviously checked it for leaks [had it sit filled for a day] then plugged it in and didn't blow the fuse or GFI...


Anything else I should look for to make sure there is no shorts?


Also the stirring motor only has two wires and they aren't labeled or colored...but I found that if you switch the wires...the fan moves the other way
So I want to make sure...fan should blow air DOWN onto the motor to cool it off or AWAY from the motor to blow away the hot air?

I currently have it blowing down.

-jay

 

[The Pol]

My Pol Clone eHLT is built and heating up as I type.

It looks to be taking about 90+ minutes to heat 9g of water to 170 but my facet runs cold this time of year...think I started at 60.


Anyway, I've obviously checked it for leaks [had it sit filled for a day] then plugged it in and didn't blow the fuse or GFI...


Anything else I should look for to make sure there is no shorts?


Also the stirring motor only has two wires and they aren't labeled or colored...but I found that if you switch the wires...the fan moves the other way
So I want to make sure...fan should blow air DOWN onto the motor to cool it off or AWAY from the motor to blow away the hot air?

I currently have it blowing down.

-jay

Watch for leaks around the element when it is at operating temp. This is because you have the inner liner really expanding at higher temps. This is overcome by reinforcing the inner liner as stated previously with what amounts to a plastic washer epoxied around the hole.

My fan blows DOWN over the motor... much better cooling than trying to suck air away from the motor. In a year of service, no problems at all.

 

[JayInJersey]

I just wanted to again say OH MY GOD this system rocks.

Just got mine up and running and it was the first brewday that didn't feel like "work"
I actually had time to work on my keezer while it was doing it's thing.

Amazing Pol amazing....bless you and you brews.


While I still need to get the hang of a few things (like how to keep the fluid in the tube when I QD) I'm longing to make my next batch.

Looks like brewmasterswarehouse is about to get another order, or two....or three.

 

[BigNastyBrew]

Yes, notice that they are inserted from the INside, so the water pressure in the MLT and HLT actually presses the stopper into the hole.

In three years, never had them leak.

Thanks

Another question: What is 50785k94 part for? I got it from the parts list and it's in the same listing as the any-which-way but I don't see the relationship between them.

Thanks again

 

[The Pol]

Thanks

Another question: What is 50785k94 part for? I got it from the parts list and it's in the same listing as the any-which-way but I don't see the relationship between them.

Thanks again

Those HEX couplings are to join (2) 1/2" male threaded ends... like say on a male QD and the threaded end of a LocLine connector.

 

[IrregularPulse]

You can use a silicone O-ring to seal the element (outside the cooler) ...

Is the flat o-ring that comes with the element not sufficient?

This is overcome by reinforcing the inner liner as stated previously with what amounts to a plastic washer epoxied around the hole.

On the outside of the cooler or inside?

 

[ScubaSteve]

Pol- I know you recently sold this, but what can you say about loc-line after several brews with it?

1)Any off flavors?
2)How did it retain its position with boiling liquids?
3)How was the flow rate with the 1/2" ID?
4)Would you recommend any of the nozzles, or do they get clogged?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[The Pol]

Is the flat o-ring that comes with the element not sufficient?

It is sufficient, but it seems everyones results vary.




On the outside of the cooler or inside?

The reinforcement can be on either surface... it is basically to alleviate the issues with the inner liner flexing after heating. It is VERY flimsy, you just need to build it up so that it provides a nice mating surface.

Hope that helps.

 

[The Pol]

Pol- I know you recently sold this, but what can you say about loc-line after several brews with it?

1)Any off flavors?
2)How did it retain its position with boiling liquids?
3)How was the flow rate with the 1/2" ID?
4)Would you recommend any of the nozzles, or do they get clogged?

Thanks,

Steve

No off flavors... actually boiled it a few times on my stove and there were no "chemical" vapors like you will get from reinforced vinyl tubing.

Held its position perfectly.

I had excellent flow rates... but remember it also depends on what else you are pumping through. When pumping up and through my HERMS coil the flow was about half what it was when I simply recirculated my kettle.

I recommend the simple 1/2" ID orange nozzle. It provides a little pressure to whirlpool the kettle well, but is large enough that I had nothing clog it.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Suhweet. I'm going back and forth between this and simple silicon tubing. I'm not a fan of kinking/bending, especially when the tubing warms up.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Thanks for answering my Q's Pol. McMaster Carr due to deliver stir assembly pieces.

 

[The Pol]

Thanks for answering my Q's Pol. McMaster Carr due to deliver stir assembly pieces.

No problem sir... no problem. Soon I will have intimate knowlege of RIMS, so I can help you on your next build.

 

[beerocd]

No problem sir... no problem. Soon I will have intimate knowlege of RIMS, so I can help you on your next build.

Aw man, I was hoping you were going after the "Merlin" system for brewing. That's where I figured the secrecy all came in. It was mentioned in the latest Zymurgy mag; and they even said they wondered why more homebrewers weren't building these.

 

[jkarp]

New Belgium uses a Steinecker Merlin boiler. Just saw it in action last week when I took my Dutch friends up for a tour. Would be interesting to see someone scale that down to homebrew size.

 

[CodeRage]

New Belgium uses a Steinecker Merlin boiler. Just saw it in action last week when I took my Dutch friends up for a tour. Would be interesting to see someone scale that down to homebrew size.

I had to look it up. Very different process, looks very cool! Doesn't look like the give HSA a second glance though, interesting.

Here is a description if any one is curious
http://www.kronesusa.com/downloads/wuerzekochung_e.pdf

 

[patrck17]

Sorry to dig up an old thread I know this build is years old and since sold BUT,

I am gathering parts for this build, but I wanted to buy all SS fittings. I figured if I should ever evolve and change builds in the future I can always reuse the stainless. Anyways one thing I am in the air about is if I should use a SS HEX or stick to the copper the way done in the build here. I don't think there would be much of an issue with holding mash temperatures using a SS hex, but since I planned on using it to step to mashout temperatures (the same way the OP did) I worry that SS would have a significant impact on step times. I would expect that the step time would be limited by the 1500W heater and not the heat exchange, just wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on it.

I could always still go with copper, but I prefer not to mix metals due to galvanic corrosion. If I had to choose between unreasonable step times and a tiny bit of corrosion I would probably go with the corrosion. Any thoughts are welcome.

 

[The Pol]

Here is my opinion... and that is all that it is.

Use SS.

The heat transfer when you are speaking in terms of the wall thicknesses of copper or SS tubing, are so close... you wont see much difference, if any.

In a HERMS with a large volume HEX, your step time bottle neck IS the heating of the HEX water and the fact that you may only be pumping .5gal/min? SO if your mash consists of 8 gallons of water it will take you 16 minutes JUST to turn over the water once. That alone will not step the mash temp up though as you have to heat all of that grist, not just the water flowing through the HERMS coil.

Id go SS, it cleans well, wont corrode, etc... plus in the future when you get all blingy you will have a cool SS coil to start with.

On my new build I used a 50' SS coil (1/2" OD) and it was CHEAPER than getting the 50' COPPER coil (1/2" OD)

 

[Brocster]

I just wanted to again say OH MY GOD this system rocks.


Amazing Pol amazing....bless you and you brews.

AMEN! The system is absolutely amazing and you should be proud of that!

Thanks for all the help so far, and I look forward to hearing from you in the future!

Broc

 

[The Pol]

Thanks guys...

I only hope that my new build will be half as successful. Hopefully I can get this nest of wires and electronics set up to make wort. The Brew Beast proved a few concepts for me and helped me to nail down my process so that I could then concentrate on the fine points.

I am glad to help support you guys build and operate this rig, even though mine is gone.

 

[patrck17]

I am on the very slow build pace. Buying a few peices a month as the budget will allow. I am almost done with all the stainless atm, so itle be downhill from there. I was hoping you would still have the spreadsheet and could send it to me. If not I was going to pester the other people that you've sent it to in this post.

 

[The Pol]

I am on the very slow build pace. Buying a few peices a month as the budget will allow. I am almost done with all the stainless atm, so itle be downhill from there. I was hoping you would still have the spreadsheet and could send it to me. If not I was going to pester the other people that you've sent it to in this post.

Send me a PM with your email and I will send it over. I still have all the info needed to help support people building/running this system. Gone, but not forgotten!

 

[patrck17]

Hey Pol, wanted to ask your input on this... I decided it would be best to go with a SS instead of copper for the heat exchanger, so I was looking for a 25' 1/2" SS chiller that I could make work. It seems the only place that has a 25' SS chiller is midwest supplies, but I asked and they said that the 25' chiller is 3/8". Based on your new build thread I've taken that the midwest 50' chiller is 1/2" so I figured I would go with that instead. My concerns are flow rates. You've stated many times in this thread that you onced used 3/8" plumbing and had poor flow rates, through a number of changes including going to 1/2" plumbing you were able to get much better performance. The problem is that if I add 25' of tubing by using a 50' chiller that would probably have an adverse effect on flow rates as well. I was thinking that I could counter this by buying one of those Little Giant 1/12 HP pumps you are using in your new build, but wanted to know what you thought of that since this is your build and you probably know it well.

 

[The Pol]

Hey Pol, wanted to ask your input on this... I decided it would be best to go with a SS instead of copper for the heat exchanger, so I was looking for a 25' 1/2" SS chiller that I could make work. It seems the only place that has a 25' SS chiller is midwest supplies, but I asked and they said that the 25' chiller is 3/8". Based on your new build thread I've taken that the midwest 50' chiller is 1/2" so I figured I would go with that instead. My concerns are flow rates. You've stated many times in this thread that you onced used 3/8" plumbing and had poor flow rates, through a number of changes including going to 1/2" plumbing you were able to get much better performance. The problem is that if I add 25' of tubing by using a 50' chiller that would probably have an adverse effect on flow rates as well. I was thinking that I could counter this by buying one of those Little Giant 1/12 HP pumps you are using in your new build, but wanted to know what you thought of that since this is your build and you probably know it well.

How fast do you plan on recirculating your mash? 3/8" ID wont restrict it to a large enough degree to matter. I mean, you are only pumping at .5gal/min anyway right? Hope that helps~!

 

[patrck17]

Good point. I don't think I will need high flow rates for recircuilating or sparging. It may affect how fast I can fill the MLT for mash in but I am not terribly impatient. Thanks!

 

[jim4065]

Excuse me for dwelling on minutia, but I'm wondering about the sight gauges that you built for the Rubbermaids. Somewhere (hard to remember after reading thru 100+ pages of these threads) you mentioned bending the PolyCarbonate tubing. Can you expand on that any? I'm having problems getting enuff accuracy from my dipsticks - besides which it would look really great to have the same style sight gauges on mine. I'm also concerned with how to seal the wall of the cooler after inserting the sight gauge. Did you use a compression fitting behind a 1/2" NPT weldless connection?
Thanks for your help - I appreciate the fact that you keep helping others build this system even after moving on to something else.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Excuse me for dwelling on minutia, but I'm wondering about the sight gauges that you built for the Rubbermaids. Somewhere (hard to remember after reading thru 100+ pages of these threads) you mentioned bending the PolyCarbonate tubing. Can you expand on that any? I'm having problems getting enuff accuracy from my dipsticks - besides which it would look really great to have the same style sight gauges on mine. I'm also concerned with how to seal the wall of the cooler after inserting the sight gauge. Did you use a compression fitting behind a 1/2" NPT weldless connection?
Thanks for your help - I appreciate the fact that you keep helping others build this system even after moving on to something else.

Most of his build stuff is in his brewingfriends link in his sig. Here's the sightglass portion.

 

[The Pol]

Most of his build stuff is in his brewingfriends link in his sig. Here's the sightglass portion.

This guy is sharp!!

 

[jim4065]

Pol - if you ever want to run for a national political office you're gonna get a terrific amount of support from all of us whose faltering steps you guided. Thank you!