NEIPA Timeline Advice Requested

[Morrey]

Need advice for a NEIPA I have fermenting now. As a manner of “normal” procedure, I leave my beers in a temp controlled primary for 14 days. This keeps my brew cycles in order for weekend brew day consistency. However, I have the need to move another beer into the pipeline meaning I’ll only have this beer under temp control a total of 7 days prior to kegging.

Particulars: WY1318 yeast attenuation SG dropped quickly, added first dry hop charge into fermenter on day 2. Gravity is stable now for 2 consecutive days at 1.012. I propose to rack beer to keg on day 7 giving dry hop charge #1 a total of 5 days in fermenter. On day 7 I’ll keg beer, add second dry hop charge and leave at ambient temps for 5 additional days. On day 12 I’ll remove hop bags and cold crash and begin carbing in my cold chamber.

Ambient temps in my brew cave should keep the beer stable right at 70F. Lows are now around 60F and highs around 80F but I have a neoprene jacket for the keg which will help keep the thermal mass stable. I feel like this is going against my normal routine but these NEIPA’s need a good bit of attention. Would this schedule be suitable or should I just go 14 days in primary as routine w/o rocking the boat?

 

[marjen]

I have made 4 straight NE IPAs. I also use 1318. I have been dry hopping on day 3. I have moved them all to keg on day 6 or 7 and quick carb them them and put in the keezer. I am new to this so my first couple weren't great (also they were extract) but the last 2 have been 2 of the best beers I have ever had.

I will say they really tasted about perfect about 5-7 after kegging, but no reason to leave them in the fermenter that long. 1318 seems to be a quick working yeast. Fast and furious fermentation. You should be quite fine. Enjoy.

 

[Morrey]

I have made 4 straight NE IPAs. I also use 1318. I have been dry hopping on day 3. I have moved them all to keg on day 6 or 7 and quick carb them them and put in the keezer. I am new to this so my first couple weren't great (also they were extract) but the last 2 have been 2 of the best beers I have ever had.

I will say they really tasted about perfect about 5-7 after kegging, but no reason to leave them in the fermenter that long. 1318 seems to be a quick working yeast. Fast and furious fermentation. You should be quite fine. Enjoy.

Thanks for your response as this helped me determine that my proposed/revised schedule should be fine. Let me ask what helped you turn the corner with your last two beers compared to the previous 2? Did you shift to AG then?

I noted my SG fermentation graph with 1318 looks like it fell straight off a cliff. I have a Tilt floating hydrometer and while watching the gravity in real time, and I must say 1318 is a high achiever! I started at 1.060 at 67F and watching the gravity drop like a rock I hit 1.020 on day 2. I knew I wanted this first dry hop charge to be added into fermenter while there was some fermentation potential left so my numbers told me to add hops on day 2. On day 3 I hit 1.012 and there it is remaining stable. Basically 3 days and 1318 had attenuated out. YMMV of course, and while most say day 3 is ideal, I chose day 2 for reasons as described.

 

[marjen]

Let me ask what helped you turn the corner with your last two beers compared to the previous 2? Did you shift to AG then?

Well the first 2 were my first ever batches. I also used different yeasts. The first batch was ok, drinkable. I split into 2 fermenters and used WLP007 in one and WY1098 in the other. The 1098 wasn't bad, I drank it. The other not so much. My second batch I used WY1318. It was pretty solid. But it fell off quickly. That was also extract. I did not think going from extract to all grain would really change the taste so much but it really did. Also the color in all grain is much lighter and neither batch fell off like the first 2 did. I also went from 12oz to 16 oz of hops on batches 3 and 4 and just generally got a little better with my process.

Basically 3 days and 1318 had attenuated out. YMMV of course, and while most say day 3 is ideal, I chose day 2 for reasons as described.

I did have a batch, 4th, that I pitched on day two as activity seemed to dictate it. The yeast is so fast that so far sometime between day 2-3 seems to be the ideal window. I did day 4 in my first 2 batches and not sure if that also contributed to them not being to good.

Batch 3 started at 1.072 and ended at 1.014. Was not expecting that and ended up being a double, best double IPA i ever had. The last one started at 1.054 and ended around 1.012. Still feeling out the BIAB process so thats why I have wildly different starting OGs with the same recipe.

 

[numberspace]

I've brewed several NEIPAs so far and the standard procedure I use is 5 days at 68F for anything above 16P, then perform Diacetyl rest for 2 days at 72 and then cold crash the beer. I usually only dry hop once at 48 hrs. I've tried 24 and 72, 24 hours resulted in a volcano of activity and 72 didn't seem to have the character of the 48 hr addition. From reading Hops the whole pound of hops for a dry addition might be a bit much. Less can be more as some of the flavors may not come out as much as you like. Cheers

 

[Morrey]

Still feeling out the BIAB process so thats why I have wildly different starting OGs with the same recipe.

To be sure splitting a batch in half with two yeasts will tell you quickly how much influence a particular yeast strain has on a beer. Various strains can be worlds apart.

Once you nail down the BIAB process you'll stabilize and should hit the same OG regularly. One factor I've noted is the varying grist size you get from pre-milled grains. If you grind your own (meaning you control roller gap) your efficiency will settle in nicely.

Water management is pretty important too. For this NEIPA I set my chlorides to 137 and sulfates to 64.

Thanks for your timeline references!

 

[isomerization]

I wouldn't even worry about removing the 2nd dry hop charge, just another time to introduce O2. This beer will be gone in a month anyways, right? I prefer to add my hop bag (dental floss method), purge with CO2 a couple times and then closed transfer from the fermenter. I think your time line looks great, if anything you only need to dry hop at ambient for 24 hours.

 

[bruhaha]

I wouldn't even worry about removing the 2nd dry hop charge, just another time to introduce O2. This beer will be gone in a month anyways, right? I prefer to add my hop bag (dental floss method), purge with CO2 a couple times and then closed transfer from the fermenter. I think your time line looks great, if anything you only need to dry hop at ambient for 24 hours.

Goodness...you think that beer will last him a month? LOL. If it is as good as all the top billing it receives on HBT, I doubt within a week Morrey will have any left over!!

Agree on your assessment to leave hops in w/o removing. Check this out: Just ordered a keg hopper from Arbor Fab....300 micron screen 7" tube, cap is suspended by an adj chain welded hook to its own specialty keg lid functions as any lid with o ring and relief valve. Can suspend the depth of the tube as deep as desired and unlike a wet muslin bag wont clog the dip tube if you drop it down too low. Cool.

 

[Morrey]

Goodness...you think that beer will last him a month? LOL. If it is as good as all the top billing it receives on HBT, I doubt within a week Morrey will have any left over!!

Agree on your assessment to leave hops in w/o removing. Check this out: Just ordered a keg hopper from Arbor Fab....300 micron screen 7" tube, cap is suspended by an adj chain welded hook to its own specialty keg lid functions as any lid with o ring and relief valve. Can suspend the depth of the tube as deep as desired and unlike a wet muslin bag wont clog the dip tube if you drop it down too low. Cool.

You nailed it. If my brother in law starts sucking on the NEIPA tap, I can kiss that corny goodbye for sure. I think I'll put a gallon size empty pickle barrel by the tap and write "TIP JAR" on it. I bet I got $25 in hops alone in this sucker.

BTW how about sending out a review on that Keg Hopper after you run a test?

 

[pshankstar]

I have my first NE IPA fermenting right now. One fermenter has WY1318 and the other has OYL-052. Tonight at 8:30pm will be four days since I pitched the yeast. I will be dry hoping both tonight with 3oz each. I ordered a second dry hop canister that should be here early next week or hopefully this weekend.

Based on this thread it makes me think I should rack both beers to the kegs next week and I will dry hop them in the kegs with another 3oz each. I'll purge the oxygen of course, but I wonder how long I should let them sit before I start carbonating them? Maybe a day or two and then 30PSI for 48 hours, vent and turn down to serving pressure and enjoy.

Thanks for bringing this up OP! Cheers!

 

[Morrey]

I have my first NE IPA fermenting right now. One fermenter has WY1318 and the other has OYL-052. Tonight at 8:30pm will be four days since I pitched the yeast. I will be dry hoping both tonight with 3oz each. I ordered a second dry hop canister that should be here early next week or hopefully this weekend.

Based on this thread it makes me think I should rack both beers to the kegs next week and I will dry hop them in the kegs with another 3oz each. I'll purge the oxygen of course, but I wonder how long I should let them sit before I start carbonating them? Maybe a day or two and then 30PSI for 48 hours, vent and turn down to serving pressure and enjoy.

Thanks for bringing this up OP! Cheers!

This is a good question and I think "how long to dry hop" will draw various answers all over the board. Some say 24 hours, some say 4 days, some say 7 days....all different responses. But, I am thinking what was just said in that we drop in the last hop addition, seal and purge, then never open it back up. In a day or three, chill it down and apply CO2. Bunch of ways to skin the cat here.

Darn, now y'all got me wanting a dry hop canister.

BTW I went to my LHBS to buy either 1318 or OYL-052 and they only had 1318. Its a beast so I'll harvest some and keep it going.

 

[isomerization]

You nailed it. If my brother in law starts sucking on the NEIPA tap, I can kiss that corny goodbye for sure. I think I'll put a gallon size empty pickle barrel by the tap and write "TIP JAR" on it. I bet I got $25 in hops alone in this sucker.

BTW how about sending out a review on that Keg Hopper after you run a test?

That's way too high! You should consider buying in bulk (I like HopsDirect and YakimaValley), helps cut the cost down to about $1/oz. I also can't recommend enough the use of hop extract (also Yakima Valley), all you need is some syringes and caps (see Amazon), and you can get super clean IBUs and not vegetal matter for about 50 cents a batch.

 

[pshankstar]

This is a good question and I think "how long to dry hop" will draw various answers all over the board. Some say 24 hours, some say 4 days, some say 7 days....all different responses. But, I am thinking what was just said in that we drop in the last hop addition, seal and purge, then never open it back up. In a day or three, chill it down and apply CO2. Bunch of ways to skin the cat here.

Darn, now y'all got me wanting a dry hop canister.

BTW I went to my LHBS to buy either 1318 or OYL-052 and they only had 1318. Its a beast so I'll harvest some and keep it going.

Yes WY1318 is a beast! I should have used a blowoff right off the bat... Oops!

That's way too high! You should consider buying in bulk (I like HopsDirect and YakimaValley), helps cut the cost down to about $1/oz. I also can't recommend enough the use of hop extract (also Yakima Valley), all you need is some syringes and caps (see Amazon), and you can get super clean IBUs and not vegetal matter for about 50 cents a batch.

I couldn't agree more! I always tend to buy my hops in one pound increments. I have 26oz of hops in a 10 gallon batch and my total cost is $27.72 in hops. That's using Citra, Falconer's Flight and Exp. #07270, plus 2oz of Bravo for the small bittering addition.

 

[Morrey]

That's way too high! You should consider buying in bulk (I like HopsDirect and YakimaValley), helps cut the cost down to about $1/oz. I also can't recommend enough the use of hop extract (also Yakima Valley), all you need is some syringes and caps (see Amazon), and you can get super clean IBUs and not vegetal matter for about 50 cents a batch.

Good tip on the extract so I'll plan to look into that. Is it purely a bittering component, or does it carry the essences of particular hops?

Yeah, I did my shopping the expensive way...one ounce at a time. Galaxy was $3 per ounce. So just last night I went to Yakima Valley (Thanks to HBT members guiding me there) and bought a pound each of Galaxy, Northern Brewer, Sorachi Ace, Mosaic and Citra. You're right...even with Galaxy being $30, it still averaged about $1.15 per oz. Excellent.

 

[isomerization]

Good tip on the extract so I'll plan to look into that. Is it purely a bittering component, or does it carry the essences of particular hops?

Yeah, I did my shopping the expensive way...one ounce at a time. Galaxy was $3 per ounce. So just last night I went to Yakima Valley (Thanks to HBT members guiding me there) and bought a pound each of Galaxy, Northern Brewer, Sorachi Ace, Mosaic and Citra. You're right...even with Galaxy being $30, it still averaged about $1.15 per oz. Excellent.

Very nice! I use the extract from Yakima for bittering only (its listed at 61.1% AA, so you can use your favorite software to calculate how many mL to add to get to your target IBUs). With that said (and I can't find the link right now), I've seen another company sell hop specific extracts, like Citra, Mosaic, etc. that would be interesting to try.

 

[marjen]

You nailed it. If my brother in law starts sucking on the NEIPA tap, I can kiss that corny goodbye for sure.

This is my problem. I expected a 5 gallon keg to last like a month. Granted I am not yielding 5 gallons a batch yet due to boil loss and trub loss, but my last batch lasted a week, lol! Time for a bigger kettle!

Hop prices du suck. I am using 1lb of hops per,5 gallons. Online has some good prices but shipping kills the savings. I can usually get Columbus cheap enough at Yakima to make it worth while but Others I am now getting locally to save on shipping.

 

[Morrey]

This is my problem. I expected a 5 gallon keg to last like a month. Granted I am not yielding 5 gallons a batch yet due to boil loss and trub loss, but my last batch lasted a week, lol! Time for a bigger kettle!

Hop prices du suck. I am using 1lb of hops per,5 gallons. Online has some good prices but shipping kills the savings. I can usually get Columbus cheap enough at Yakima to make it worth while but Others I am now getting locally to save on shipping.

You must be making some darn good beer to knock it off that fast! A few thirsty buddies really adds up too. Seriously, a full 5G corny only yields 45 pint pours. That goes fast. If you are going to bump it up, might as well consider 10G batches. You are going thru the same motions any way you slice it. I have a 10G kettle for 5.5G batches and a 20G kettle for 11G batches. My BIAB setup is relatively the same either batch size.

 

[ultravista]

subscribing.

 

[pshankstar]

Well I decided to add my first round of dry hops to the two fermenters. This would be four days in after pitching the yeast. I also decided to take a gravity reading while I was dry hopping. The OG for both fermenters was 1.064. The OYL-052 came in at 1.014 and the WY1318 came in at 1.023. I didn't take any pictures of the inside of the fermenters but I can say that the OYL-052 showed very little krause, where as the WY1318 still had a thick layer.

The temp of the wort when I pitched the yeast Sunday night was 58 degrees. Two days later the temps were both at 66 degrees, but since yesterday they are both back down to 64.

I will say both gravity samples were very good! Strong aroma and flavor from both samples but I feel the yeast on both need to flocculate a lot more. I can't wait to see how it turns out! Below are some crummy pictures of the gravity samples I pulled.


OYL-052 ^


WY1318^

 

[CrimsonYeti]

Following along with this thread. I have a Neipa that went into the fermenter 2.5 weeks ago .....used London III 1318 yeast. 1st charge of dry hopping at 24 hours. I still have airlock activity. Is this normal ? I have not taken a sample to check FG yet. I didnt want to risk the extra exposure.
Also to add fermentation temp is between 65 an 68 degrees.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Following along with this thread. I have a Neipa that went into the fermenter 2.5 weeks ago .....used London III 1318 yeast. 1st charge of dry hopping at 24 hours. I still have airlock activity. Is this normal ? I have not taken a sample to check FG yet. I didnt want to risk the extra exposure.
Also to add fermentation temp is between 65 an 68 degrees.

It was probably done fermenting 1.5 weeks ago and has been sitting there oxidizing ever since.
The airlock activity is just off-gassing.

 

[Jag75]

You all should try GY054 for your NEIPA if you haven't yet . It's really good . It's my go too for NEIPA

 

[isomerization]

Following along with this thread. I have a Neipa that went into the fermenter 2.5 weeks ago .....used London III 1318 yeast. 1st charge of dry hopping at 24 hours. I still have airlock activity. Is this normal ? I have not taken a sample to check FG yet. I didnt want to risk the extra exposure.
Also to add fermentation temp is between 65 an 68 degrees.

1318 likes to leave a big fat krausen on top until you drop the temp (or maybe agitate). I’d guess gas pools up a bit under the dense “foam” and slowly releases, giving the appearance of continued fermentation.

 

[CrimsonYeti]

1318 likes to leave a big fat krausen on top until you drop the temp (or maybe agitate). I’d guess gas pools up a bit under the dense “foam” and slowly releases, giving the appearance of continued fermentation.

That makes perfect sense. This is the 1st time i have used this yeast. I will definitely pay better attention next time i use it. Thank you.

 

[wepeeler]

You all should try GY054 for your NEIPA if you haven't yet . It's really good . It's my go too for NEIPA

I've read a lot of negative reviews on that yeast. Not saying it doesn't work well, when it does, but read a lot of people getting dead packs and stalled fermentations. It's on my list to try though!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I've read a lot of negative reviews on that yeast. Not saying it doesn't work well, when it does, but read a lot of people getting dead packs and stalled fermentations. It's on my list to try though!

Lol I am brewing a NEIPA today with this. Made a solid starter and the yeast seemed to behave very well on starter, just like they did with A04 barbarian and a24 dry hop both of which I’ve used before. Hopefully with good aeration before pitching it will take off just like A04 did for me since both are Conan strains I’m hoping to get similar results. Will pitch at 68

 

[Jag75]

Luckily I've never had an issue with it .

 

[sleev-les]

1318 likes to leave a big fat krausen on top until you drop the temp (or maybe agitate). I’d guess gas pools up a bit under the dense “foam” and slowly releases, giving the appearance of continued fermentation.

This thread has answered a ton of questions. I am dealing with something similar. Still airlock activity and krausen. Been 10 days so far. For my hop adds, I did 1st at 24 hours then 2nd 5 days later. Basically 2 additions at 5 days each. At the end of this 5 days which is Wednesday I'll cold crash for 48 ish hours and keg. Proably have to dump a bit of trub first though to clear the racking arm.

First time using London III so good to know about the prolonged krausen.

 

[wepeeler]

Lol I am brewing a NEIPA today with this. Made a solid starter and the yeast seemed to behave very well on starter, just like they did with A04 barbarian and a24 dry hop both of which I’ve used before. Hopefully with good aeration before pitching it will take off just like A04 did for me since both are Conan strains I’m hoping to get similar results. Will pitch at 68

I'm sure it will be fine. Let us know how it turns out. Most people will leave a negative review before they would leave a good one, so there's that.

 

[MotoGP1000]

It was probably done fermenting 1.5 weeks ago and has been sitting there oxidizing ever since.
The airlock activity is just off-gassing.

Brewer friend of mine runs a reputable and distributing brewery. Says their neipas they wait 2 weeks and don’t both with cold crash. I’m trying this on this newest beer. I’ve been doing about a week brew day to keg but notice it has some bite. Also, idk if CO2 “burns off”. Should keep a fine layer for a 2 weeks.