NE IPA first timer

[texan_09]

Still very new to all grain and recipe formulation. I wanted to try a small batch of NE style IPA but I'm really not sure on the amounts/addition times for my hops. Also should I add some sugar to make it a bit drier? Any critique is much appreciated. Thanks!

1.20 Gallon Batch
ABV 6.4%
OG 1.065
FG 1.016
IBU 51.7
Color 6.7 SRM

2lb 12oz Pale 2 Row
2oz Crystal 40
4oz CaraPils
3.2oz Flaked Oats

.2oz Mosaic 30 min
.4oz Mosaic 0 min
.4oz Mosaic steep 15 min
.5oz El Dorado dry hop 3 days
.25oz Chinook (grown in my garden last fall) dry hop 3 days
.5oz El Dorado dry hop 0 days

London Ale III Yeast

 

[plazola86]

75% 2 row
10% flaked oats
10% white wheat
3% munich
2% honey

No need for crystal or carapils. These beers aren't dry like west coast style IPA's so no sugar. These are better when they finish a bit higher so shoot for 1.015 give or take 1-2 points.

 

[Morrey]

The referenced thread will give you lots of ideas. Don't forget your sulfate to chloride ratio is critical in making this beer. I use London Ale III (1318) and like it. I have also used Brett C and find it interesting as well.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568046

I think post 1418 is the modified version being used.

 

[texan_09]

Thanks. I have seen recipes with a 60 minute bittering addition and others where no hops are used until flameout. It seems like everyone has their own opinion.

 

[Morrey]

Thanks. I have seen recipes with a 60 minute bittering addition and others where no hops are used until flameout. It seems like everyone has their own opinion.

This is very true. I have started using hop extracts from Yakima Valley for the 60 minute bittering addition. Then the pellet hops are added at FO and even later towards 160F during whirlpool additions. Lots of ways to skin this cat. The cooler your wort, the less bittering potential you draw from the hops when added.

 

[Upthewazzu]

dump the carapils and add MO or Munich. Crystal is actually ok for the style (Bissell Brothers The Substance Ale uses it) but not very much. Mosaic at 30 is ok, but I'd move it to 15 and up the amount to get the IBU's you desire. Also, I'd add another fruity hop to your steep and dry hop regimen.

 

[texan_09]

Maris Otter and Munich are fairly different. What would be the benefit in substituting one of those for the CaraPils?

 

[EcuPirate07]

My last one was

40% 2 row
40% MO
20% Flaked Oats

No 60 min hops
1 flame out addition
1 whirlpool addition for 30 mins @160 degrees
1 whirlpool addition for 15 mins

1 dry hop addition @ day 3 (biotransfusion with yeast)
1 dry hop addition @ day 9 (let those hops sit for a week then kegged)

Turned out great.

 

[JohnConnor]

75% 2 row
10% flaked oats
10% white wheat
3% munich
2% honey

No need for crystal or carapils. These beers aren't dry like west coast style IPA's so no sugar. These are better when they finish a bit higher so shoot for 1.015 give or take 1-2 points.

I'm going to disagree. Trillium uses both dextrose, dextrine and crystal. I think carapils is fine for the style. It'll help with head retention which is important aiding with aroma release. A tiny amount of crystal is fine for color if you so choose. I've been skipping any hop addition until 20 minutes and later with really good results. As always, give yours a shot. You might surprise yourself. There is never one answer to these things.

 

[Upthewazzu]

Maris Otter and Munich are fairly different. What would be the benefit in substituting one of those for the CaraPils?

MO is a little bready and malty; Munich is sweet yet sharp. Both add flavor and improve head retention. They're far more "interesting" than carapils when it comes to a beers flavor profile.

I've brewed 3 NEIPA, and never once use carapils. Head retention on all three were excellent.

 

[Braufessor]

My last one was

40% 2 row
40% MO
20% Flaked Oats

No 60 min hops
1 flame out addition
1 whirlpool addition for 30 mins @160 degrees
1 whirlpool addition for 15 mins

1 dry hop addition @ day 3 (biotransfusion with yeast)
1 dry hop addition @ day 9 (let those hops sit for a week then kegged)

Turned out great.

Lots of ways to skin this cat..... but, this post is a really good overall template.
*Perhaps add a touch of hops to bitter if you want. I like 30-50 IBU's from bitter hop.

*Definitely control your water..... use RO water and add some Gypsum and CaCl - .75-1.0 tsp of each to 5 gallons of water used - so adjust to your total water volume.

*Yeast...... 1318, Conan, 1272 ..... lots of yeasts will give good result.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I was doing a small FWH addition, but I'm experimenting with dropping it and using higher quantities at 15, 5, FO, and at 170 degrees. The idea is to get the same bitterness level but increase flavor and aroma.

Also, for NEIPA, I think the dry hop addition towards the end (but during active fermentaion) is important. I always do two dry hops. The first during fermentation and the second about 3-4 days before cold crash.

With 1318 the following schedule has worked well:

Sat. (day 1) brew day.
Ferment at 65 degrees
Tues am - first dry hop
Friday pm...allow rise to 70 degrees for 3 days.
Monday - second dry hop addition
Thurs. - cold crash
Sat am - keg

I believe this can be compressed quite a bit, but I like to do my brew day and keg day on a weekend as my weeknights can be a little hectic for much more than changing the temp or dropping in some hops. Kegging usually ends up taking me over an hour by the time I sanitize, purge, transfer, purge, initiate carbing and get it all cleaned up.

As I do this more and get all the pieces more solid (I always end up cobbling my pressure transfer system each time right now), that time will drop.

 

[plazola86]

10% of wheat will do more for head retention and body than carapils. The Munich gives an orange color and better malty flavor compared to the brown tones and raisin flavor that crystal gives. I came up with these percentages through (obsessively) experimenting the NE style this year. Like mentioned above the only way to learn is practice to come up with the flavor you're after. That's half the fun, the other half is drinking it!

 

[JohnConnor]

Lots of ways to skin this cat..... but, this post is a really good overall template.
*Perhaps add a touch of hops to bitter if you want. I like 30-50 IBU's from bitter hop.

*Definitely control your water..... use RO water and add some Gypsum and CaCl - .75-1.0 tsp of each to 5 gallons of water used - so adjust to your total water volume.

*Yeast...... 1318, Conan, 1272 ..... lots of yeasts will give good result.

The only reason you like it is because it's based off your recipe .

I think my biggest issue with "knock off's" I've had is there isn't enough bitter to balance just doing whirlpool hops. I'm personally happier with having some kind of bitter beyond whirlpool hops.

 

[plazola86]

The only reason you like it is because it's based off your recipe .

I think my biggest issue with "knock off's" I've had is there isn't enough bitter to balance just doing whirlpool hops. I'm personally happier with having some kind of bitter beyond whirlpool hops.

Agree with this too. Any IPA regardless of style that I make has a FWH addition. that's the only way to get a good, firm bitterness IMO. I've tried F.O and whirlpool only and was very disappointed with the outcome.