Nano Brewer System from Colorado Brewing

[pretzelb]

After around 5 years of all grain brewing 5 gallon batches I am itching to upgrade to 10g. I'm also looking at swithcing to electric brewing. I believe the panel in my garage has enough room for another dedicated circuit. While reviewing various options I stumbled on the
Nano Brewer System from Colorado Brewing Systems (20g pot) but I can't find other reviews about this system.

I've exchanged emails and thus far the response and support has been amazing. The price is very good but I suppose for a single vessel system it should be cheaper than the 3 vessel systems. If anyone has any experience with either this system from this company or one like it please share them. After considering things for a while the concerns I have are:

1. Not many reviews to be found
2. Can I really get 80% efficiency with this hybrid of RIMS/BIAB/single vessel system?
3. Since the single vessel is 20g, my ability to produce a full 10g batch of a heavy beer is seriously limited comapred to a 3 vessel system.
4. Is there a noticeable difference with body when you can't control the water to grain ratio?

FWIW, my current setup is 2 kettles and a cooler for the mash. I use a propane burner in the garage (door open of course). My main goal is to save brew time by upgrading to 10g and thus not having to brew two weeks in a row to hit 10g. However after researching more I'm very eager to get control over my mash temps and the idea of not running out of propane is exciting.

 

[iijakii]

I've always thought the Colorado Brewing rigs are very reasonably priced, personally. The reviews I've read say their welds and quality are great too. In regards to your questions, since that's the modular system.. what are you planning on getting? Looks like it comes in many different configurations.

2. If you're going the BIAB version yes you can get 80 if you crush well and employ a simple sparge (more info on that later), but mid 70s is much more likely.

3. A 20gal pot is plenty of room to do a 10g BIAB batch. Look at the "Can I mash it" section http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml -- 40lbs for an 11gal batch puts you at roughly 1.100. Using a mash thickness of 1.6 qt/lb it'd be a gallon or so shy of max volume. I'd even cut it back a little more to have more for a sparge for efficiency reasons.

4. No.

So for the 'sparge' you have the bag hoisted up and draining, simple pour however much water you need to over it and let it drain into the kettle. Couple gallons would suffice. This rinse will really boost your efficiency and lets you make up for too large of grain bills. Don't have to make it complicated -- cold water from a pitcher.

 

[pretzelb]

Whoops, I forgot they had so many options on that page. I was targeting the 20g single kettle / single stand configuration. Adding another stand and kettle seems interesting but I'm not sure how I'd use it.

What is throwing me off on this type of brewing is trying to put all the water in at the start. I used BrewSmith to test a 32 lb grain bill (doubled a 15.5 lb recipe I had) and I think ending volume was near 19.2. So if there was a 5g grain bill that exceed around 15lbs I might not be able to fit both mash and sparge in the 20g pot from start to finish.

But the idea of just adding water over the grains at the end might work. In face I could do that for all the recipes even if they aren't high gravity. Something I should consider.

 

[iijakii]

Whoops, I forgot they had so many options on that page. I was targeting the 20g single kettle / single stand configuration. Adding another stand and kettle seems interesting but I'm not sure how I'd use it.

What is throwing me off on this type of brewing is trying to put all the water in at the start. I used BrewSmith to test a 32 lb grain bill (doubled a 15.5 lb recipe I had) and I think ending volume was near 19.2. So if there was a 5g grain bill that exceed around 15lbs I might not be able to fit both mash and sparge in the 20g pot from start to finish.

But the idea of just adding water over the grains at the end might work. In face I could do that for all the recipes even if they aren't high gravity. Something I should consider.

In your Beersmith recipe, edit the mash profile and play around with the QT/LB water ratio. For example on my 11gal and 40lb mash default 1.25 is saying you mash with 12.5 gallons of water and sparge with 4.5 or so. If you bump it up to a 1.5 ratio then you mash with 15 gallons and then going back to the Rackers calc the grain will take up 3gal worth of space, leaving you with 18 out of 20, enough room to stir without making a mess all over the place. Then you would hoist your bag up and sparge with roughly 2.1gal to get to your pre-boil volume. The BIAB forum will have a lot more info and help there if I'm not explaining it well.

 

[decoleur]

I have bought from cobrewing. Communication and workmanship are first rate. Tim will take care of you.

 

[TexasWine]

So if there was a 5g grain bill that exceed around 15lbs I might not be able to fit both mash and sparge in the 20g pot from start to finish.

Not following. For a BIAB 5 gallon batch using 15 pounds of grain you'll only need about 8 gallons of water, total. Mash volume would be about 9.5 gallons. You could double the water and grains to make a 10 gallon batch and still have enough room (barely).

 

[pretzelb]

Not following. For a BIAB 5 gallon batch using 15 pounds of grain you'll only need about 8 gallons of water, total. Mash volume would be about 9.5 gallons. You could double the water and grains to make a 10 gallon batch and still have enough room (barely).

And that's my point. It would barely fit. So if I find a 5g recipe that requires more grain it won't fit without changing the settings and doing some kind of sparge. I've never tried the biab profiles in Beersmith so I'm not sure how easy it is to adjust. Just one advantage of a 3 vessel system is not having to adjust based on limits of the single vessel size.

I might need to read more on the nuances of biab to see what it's like.

 

[iijakii]

That's what I'm saying though. Removing 2 or 3gals of water and re-adding it is simple enough to me. Then you could brew your 1.1 beers fine.

 

[Bellybuster]

I have the 20 gallon system with the mesh basket. Mine is electric and I just love it.
I went from a single tier 3 vessel system to this thinking it was a downgrade. Ends up it was an upgrade but downsize on space. Happy as a pig in ****.
Big beers are doable but as said above takes some preplanning.
I usually do a seasonal big beer. This year I'm just gonna make a bit less, probably 8 gallons instead of 10

 

[pretzelb]

That's what I'm saying though. Removing 2 or 3gals of water and re-adding it is simple enough to me. Then you could brew your 1.1 beers fine.

I think I understand your idea. I did play around in Beersmith a bit too see what that might be like but I was too busy to get far.

The one drawback to that idea is having to adjust profiles around the grain bill size. It probably isn't a huge deal but it seems less accurate and repeatable than not having to adjust around equipment size.

I'm sure I'm over thinking it. But it is a big purchase. And not something I want to regret. I think researching biab will help.

Even though I've been doing this for 5 years I will be learning new things no matter what I buy so it's exciting and scary.

 

[pretzelb]

I have the 20 gallon system with the mesh basket. Mine is electric and I just love it.
I went from a single tier 3 vessel system to this thinking it was a downgrade. Ends up it was an upgrade but downsize on space. Happy as a pig in ****.
Big beers are doable but as said above takes some preplanning.
I usually do a seasonal big beer. This year I'm just gonna make a bit less, probably 8 gallons instead of 10

Glad to hear you are happy with the system. What was your reason for switching from a 3 vessel system?

I was also thinking I could adjust the recipe output if the calculations exceed the 20g kettle. It's not like I really NEED a full 10g of a heavy beer, but it would be fun.

 

[Rivenin]

If it helps at all, i've been debating switching to a single vessel because i have 2 kids (one is almost 2 years and one is almost 2 months) so i'm pretty much out of time for any long sparging, keeping an eye on flow, etc... it'd be nice to fliip a switch, heat the water, recirc for an hour, pull bag and start the boil without having to watch it much. I'm electric now, i just need to get a bigger kettle as i'm also about to start more 10 gallon batches because of the no time

 

[chiefwigms]

Haven't brewed yet, but I got the single vessel 20g kettle - the build quality is awesome, and Tim is super responsive... I'd definitely recommend them!

 

[iijakii]

If it helps at all, i've been debating switching to a single vessel because i have 2 kids (one is almost 2 years and one is almost 2 months) so i'm pretty much out of time for any long sparging, keeping an eye on flow, etc... it'd be nice to fliip a switch, heat the water, recirc for an hour, pull bag and start the boil without having to watch it much. I'm electric now, i just need to get a bigger kettle as i'm also about to start more 10 gallon batches because of the no time

Hey, no selling yours until mine clears CL!

 

[Rivenin]

Hey, no selling yours until mine clears CL!

LOL!

Nah, i'd be keeping all the stuff mostly... never know when i'd want to switch back!

 

[Bellybuster]

Glad to hear you are happy with the system. What was your reason for switching from a 3 vessel system?

I was also thinking I could adjust the recipe output if the calculations exceed the 20g kettle. It's not like I really NEED a full 10g of a heavy beer, but it would be fun.

I just simply didn't want all that space used any more, I'm a wood worker as well and my garage is fairly small.
I seriously can't come up with a reason why I ever brewed with 3 vessels when the same can be done with one.
I was in the middle of a total rebuild, adding some automation etc and when I priced out 3/4" solenoid valves I started researching my options for a sell and start over.
Took me 10 minutes to sell my almost finished 3 vessel for enough $$ to buy the single one.
Personally, I will never go back. You'll get all sorts tell you 3 vessels is more versatile and capable. I'm finding that to be totally false and maybe even a bit reversed.
One more thing.... cleanup is a breeze

 

[1MadScientist]

The one drawback to that idea is having to adjust profiles around the grain bill size. It probably isn't a huge deal but it seems less accurate and repeatable than not having to adjust around equipment size.

Join BIABrewer.info and download the BIABacus, there is only one profile (your vessel size).

MS

 

[pretzelb]

If it helps at all, i've been debating switching to a single vessel because i have 2 kids (one is almost 2 years and one is almost 2 months) so i'm pretty much out of time for any long sparging, keeping an eye on flow, etc... it'd be nice to fliip a switch, heat the water, recirc for an hour, pull bag and start the boil without having to watch it much. I'm electric now, i just need to get a bigger kettle as i'm also about to start more 10 gallon batches because of the no time

Funny thing is my first goal of moving to 10g was to save time. After a big party I found it took several weekends to catch up. If I go this route I will also save time on brew day which will be a nice bonus.

 

[drewbop]

I have the 20 gallon system with the mesh basket. Mine is electric and I just love it.
I went from a single tier 3 vessel system to this thinking it was a downgrade. Ends up it was an upgrade but downsize on space. Happy as a pig in ****.
Big beers are doable but as said above takes some preplanning.
I usually do a seasonal big beer. This year I'm just gonna make a bit less, probably 8 gallons instead of 10

95% of my batches are 5 gallons but I occasionally brew 10 gallon batches to keep up with summer demand.

I'm debating whether to buy a 15 or 20 gallon eBIAB setup. Do you think I'd have any problems with doing the 5 gallon batch in a 20 gallon kettle?

Thanks!

 

[augiedoggy]

95% of my batches are 5 gallons but I occasionally brew 10 gallon batches to keep up with summer demand.

I'm debating whether to buy a 15 or 20 gallon eBIAB setup. Do you think I'd have any problems with doing the 5 gallon batch in a 20 gallon kettle?

Thanks!

Not if you buy a tall and narrow 20 gallon kettle and mount your element low if its electric.

 

[KIAKillerXJ]

95% of my batches are 5 gallons but I occasionally brew 10 gallon batches to keep up with summer demand.

I'm debating whether to buy a 15 or 20 gallon eBIAB setup. Do you think I'd have any problems with doing the 5 gallon batch in a 20 gallon kettle?

Thanks!

depends on the kettle dimensions. I BIAB in a 25 gallon, and really can't do anything less then 10 gallons in it.

 

[KIAKillerXJ]

Not if you buy a tall and narrow 20 gallon kettle and mount your element low if its electric.

right. Mine is basically 24"x24", so 5 gallons is just too shallow.

 

[drewbop]

right. Mine is basically 24"x24", so 5 gallons is just too shallow.

The one I'm looking at is 17.7" X 21.4". The element port would be mounted at the 2.5" mark with a 2" port. Using those dimensions and a depth of 3.5" puts me at about 3.7 gallons to just submerge the element. It's cutting it close but I think it will work. I usually rack 5.5 to 6.0 gallons to my fermenter.

 

[pretzelb]

The Brew Boss FAQ has charts to detail this out but your kettle will probably be different. You might be able to estimate using his formulas though.

 

[Hommel]

i just did my first water test run on a 15 gallon colorado brewing system. i agree that they were great to work with even during the holiday rush and the build quality is very good. i don't think you will have an issue doing smaller batches. there is about 2 gallons of deadspace under the basket so as long as your batch is big enough to offset that you are good. one thing to note on how big you can go - there is a triclamp on the top where your recirc arm hooks in so you can't fill the vessel all the way to the lip, only to the triclamp. on my 15 gallon system i max out at just over 12 gallons. my guess is on a 20 gallon you would max at about 17-18 gallons. that is where the lip of the basket is as well so it really is a hard limit on your mash size. i guess you could close that triclamp to go bigger on your boil if you wanted but you would lose your whirlpool arm. i did a big run of beers for nhc so i have a couple chest freezers full of beer to get through (tough life!) but i will likely do my first brew on it in a couple weeks and plan on doing a full write up with pictures and video that i'll link to here so you can check it out.

 

[rappell]

I've been using the 20 gal system since last summer. I do 5.5 gal and 11 gal batches all the time. Have done an 11 gal batch with OG of 1.090 and 5.5 at 1.040 with no issues

 

[Eamster]

I've been using the 20 gal system since last summer. I do 5.5 gal and 11 gal batches all the time. Have done an 11 gal batch with OG of 1.090 and 5.5 at 1.040 with no issues

Good to know! I have been debating many things in my head with these eBIAB products and one was if I need to go to 20 or stick with 15.5. Currently just do 5.5 gallons but they always say buy bigger just in case you want to expand but I didn't want to loose the ability to still do 5.5 gallons. Will keep read as theses forums expand. Good info.

 

[BadWolfBrewing]

I just simply didn't want all that space used any more, I'm a wood worker as well and my garage is fairly small.
I seriously can't come up with a reason why I ever brewed with 3 vessels when the same can be done with one.
I was in the middle of a total rebuild, adding some automation etc and when I priced out 3/4" solenoid valves I started researching my options for a sell and start over.
Took me 10 minutes to sell my almost finished 3 vessel for enough $$ to buy the single one.
Personally, I will never go back. You'll get all sorts tell you 3 vessels is more versatile and capable. I'm finding that to be totally false and maybe even a bit reversed.
One more thing.... cleanup is a breeze

This is nice to hear, I think I'm in the same boat. I had a blast building my 3v system w\ controller, but it makes for a LONG brew day with all the cleaning, sparging, and the SLOW ramp times of a HERMS system.

I'm moving to Ann Arbor soon, I might try to sell my rig then. The CO system looks like a great option for replacement. I'm a little confused by the pics though, the pro system shows a chiller attached to a lid, but the description says no chiller included.

 

[30Bones]

I'm a little confused by the pics though, the pro system shows a chiller attached to a lid, but the description says no chiller included.

I think their site could use a lot more cleaning up, new pictures, videos for each system they sell, etc. I have similar confusion as well