Name that beer recipe

[oneeyedziggy]

TLDR;what's the name of the beer made from the recipe below?

Full version: So for my first brew, my local home brew store gave me what they claimed was their house pale but consisted of several whitout'd and re-labeled ingredients AND add-times. I'm just wondering if anyone can name that beer (or the closest thing to it that's sold to the public)

also any tips/criticisms would be gladly accepted (I'm sure I'll be around to repay other new brewers)

10oz 40L Crystal to steep for ~15 at around 150-170
7lb extra light liquid malt extract
1.5 oz Northern brewer bittering 60 min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 15 min from flameout
1/2 oz Northern Brewer at 5 min from flameout

full boil w/ 5.75 gal water in 8 gal megapot w/bremometer and ball valve

ended up with about 4.75 gal wort and aerated with an aquarium pump and 2 micron stainless stone for 20 min

re-hydrated a packet of safale us-05 in about 4oz of wort from the boil for about 10 min and pitched at a temp of ~83*F

fermented ~10 days in a 6.5 glass carboy (after about 3 days the strip thermometer read about 72*F) then transferred to a 5 gal and dry hopped with roughly 1/2 oz cascades for 7 days and am planning to bottle this evening. All of this plus carbonation/storage will be done in a closet in the middle of my apartment which stays at around 68*F

 

[smagee]

Looks like a reasonable pale to me. Maybe closer to an amber, given the amount of 40L, but close enough. What's your concern?

 

[llamabox]

Yea looks like a simple Pale Ale.
I didn't use Crystal in mine but rather Munich and Carapils.

 

[Stauffbier]

Sounds a bit like New Belgium Amber Ale... kinda...

 

[oneeyedziggy]

oh, no real concern, I told them I was going for a Sierra Nevada (because I'm perfectly ok bowing to experience at this point) and it looks nothing like the recipe in my new clone book. So I was wondering if this is close to something commercial.

after secondary it just tasted like a flat pale/amber, maybe with a little extra body and a color closer to an English ale but that could be a little caramelization of the pale malt (I did find it odd they gave me all Liquid malt when most of the extract recipes call for some DME & some Liquid is there any benefit/difference to mixing them?).

I seem to have produced beer regardless, and it's got a good aroma if not a little strong at this point.

edit: and thanks for the feedback.

 

[smagee]

A lot of folks prefer DME to LME because it's easier to measure out; kits, on the other hand, like LME because it's cheaper. No real significant differences between the two of them, although DME is more concentrated.

You're spot-on in your assessment though; that recipe isn't really a bad looking pale, but it's very much not a Sierra Nevada. Needs WAY more hops .

 

[oneeyedziggy]

Well thanks, I think I'll bottle it, drink it, and make some more beer!

 

[BBL_Brewer]

Well thanks, I think I'll bottle it, drink it, and make some more beer!

Good plan

 

[starrfish]

looks close to anchor steam without lager yeast (but us-05 is a clean ale sub)

 

[McGarnigle]

Following up on Smagee's point, the only reason for a recipe to include both LME and DME is quantities. LME cans are typically only 3.3 lbs, but DME is sold in bags as small as one pound. So you can meet different quantities better.

 

[copyright1997]

TLDR;what's the name of the beer made from the recipe below?

Full version: So for my first brew, my local home brew store gave me what they claimed was their house pale but consisted of several whitout'd and re-labeled ingredients AND add-times. I'm just wondering if anyone can name that beer (or the closest thing to it that's sold to the public)

also any tips/criticisms would be gladly accepted (I'm sure I'll be around to repay other new brewers)

10oz 40L Crystal to steep for ~15 at around 150-170
7lb extra light liquid malt extract
1.5 oz Northern brewer bittering 60 min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 15 min from flameout
1/2 oz Northern Brewer at 5 min from flameout

full boil w/ 5.75 gal water in 8 gal megapot w/bremometer and ball valve

ended up with about 4.75 gal wort and aerated with an aquarium pump and 2 micron stainless stone for 20 min

re-hydrated a packet of safale us-05 in about 4oz of wort from the boil for about 10 min and pitched at a temp of ~83*F

fermented ~10 days in a 6.5 glass carboy (after about 3 days the strip thermometer read about 72*F) then transferred to a 5 gal and dry hopped with roughly 1/2 oz cascades for 7 days and am planning to bottle this evening. All of this plus carbonation/storage will be done in a closet in the middle of my apartment which stays at around 68*F

A couple of things. Here's a spot-on all-grain SNPA clone that I converted to LME (extract) using beersmith:
8.5# LME (pale)
4 oz crystal 60
.5 oz magnum (60 min)
.5 oz Perle (30 min)
1 oz Cascade (10 min)
2 oz Cascade (0 min)
1 pkg US-05

So, while the recipe they did for you sounds like a decent ale, it is somewhat different than a SNPA.

Second, you don't want to pitch your yeast @ 83 degrees...that is too high. My batches improved dramatically when I got my fermentation temperatures under control. For example, with S-05, I like to ferment with the outside of the plastic fermentation bucket reading 64-65 degrees, and the ambient temperature even lower. AFTER the fermentation has done most of its thing, it then becomes ok to raise the temperature a bit (e.g. move it to steps up to 70 or so).

 

[oneeyedziggy]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm halfway through drinking that batch, and while it came out alright, it definitely suffered a bit from doing a full boil without reducing the bittering hops or the boil time, and/or from having to partially cover it to keep it boiling. It probably could have used a little more water as well.

I've since gotten a propane cooker and made an oatmeal stout from a real recipe that's looking to turn out much better.

now to insulate my brew kettle since I'll be brewing outside in the cold.