My RIMS job

[Gordie]

If I were to - say - shamelessly steal your HEX design, would I have a problem running it through a Love TS on/off controller or is there a significant enough difference to upgrade to a PID?

Also, what are you doing for a temp probe?

 

[davebl]

If I were to - say - shamelessly steal your HEX design, would I have a problem running it through a Love TS on/off controller or is there a significant enough difference to upgrade to a PID?

Also, what are you doing for a temp probe?

I don't know why you couldn't use a on/off controller.. BUT a PID will give much more accurate, and therefor much better repeatable results.

I am using a smaller RTD from Auberin.

 

[davebl]

So I have to admit, I have been lax on updating. It's been too damn cold for me to paint my brew stand, so I have been holding off on finishing the plumbing.

However, a lot of people have asked me about the temperature probe placement, so I dry fit some components to show everyone.

This is the output of the RIMS. From left to right, stainless nipple that screws into the output bushing of the HEX, the stainless tee with the center going to the MLT, and the RTD temp probe:

This shows how far the temp probe goes into the stainless tee. It should be plenty of surface area to get a good reading. Also, it's about 2 inches from the HEX output, so our temps should be accurate

Then the temp probe assembly mounted to the RIMS. The center leg from the tee is a MPT x Female tube fitting that runs to a ball valve (for pump speed control) and to my MLT:

The probe has a disconnect-able wire harness, so that's why it's not in the picture.

 

[The Pol]

That last photo is nice, showing the temp probe... I would LOVE a photo of the whole RIMS heating tube assembled, is that possible????

 

[davebl]

Just another view of the temp probe assembly:

This is with the plumbing to the ball valve to give an overall idea on the output side of the RIMS.

I really do appreciate POL bringing my probe location issues up. I think putting the sensor as close to your HEX output makes the most sense and prevents denaturing mash enzymes.

I also took a lot of care to make sure my plumbing is 100% stainless. I almost achieved this.... I have high temp vinyl right at the end of the HEX output, where it meets the MLT. This allows me to easily remove the keg (no plumbing to undo) for cleaning and a kind of sight glass. More on this in the future.

 

[davebl]

That last photo is nice, showing the temp probe... I would LOVE a photo of the whole RIMS heating tube assembled, is that possible????

No problem. I'll mock up the input to the March pump tomorrow in better light and get some good pics for you.

 

[The Pol]

Thanks bro, I appreciate it... I have copious ammounts of HERMS pics to add to my article, but nothing in the way of a RIMS photos. I am glad that I could help with your build, and that you are willing to help me with my article. Synergy... it is a wonderful thing!



The Pol

 

[slimer]

Pol, this picture gives a good diagram on how they're put together. Not my pic, but a good example anyway.

 

[The Pol]

Pol, this picture gives a good diagram on how they're put together. Not my pic, but a good example anyway.

Where can I get that diagram?

 

[slnies]

Pol, this picture gives a good diagram on how they're put together. Not my pic, but a good example anyway.

Nice job on the diagram Slimmer.

 

[slnies]

Where can I get that diagram?

Google RIMS brewing and you will get a couple of sights that have some good diagrams, although, Slimmer's is a new one for me. I like it the best out of the bunch that I have seen. S.

 

[slimer]

Where can I get that diagram?

Brewery Construction

 

[davebl]

RIMS plumbing is done!!

This is the input to the march pump, which is hard plumbed to the HEX:

Input and Output plumbing:

This shows the input, pump, HEX, and output with temp probe:

 

[davebl]

And finally to show the ball valve placement that will limit the pump output. This is in between the MLT and HEX:

Now if the ice will thaw and we get some warmer temps I can paint the frame and finish this whole thing up.

 

[bakins]

Hey davebl,

how did you ground your RIMS? I'm doing something extremely similar (almost exactly the same) and was wondering how you grounded yours.

THanks.

 

[davebl]

Hey davebl,

how did you ground your RIMS? I'm doing something extremely similar (almost exactly the same) and was wondering how you grounded yours.

THanks.

I used a 3 prong GFI plug and then screwed the ground wire into the chassis.

 

[davebl]

ALMOST DONE. I'm waiting on my last keg for the HLT, but other than, she is done. Leak free, calibrated PID, painted. I feel like a 100 bucks right now. Time to finish off my oatmeal stout keg...

I'm working on a better look for the return hose to the MLT. I want to have some sort of sight glass, but I also need to hard wire it in.

Just waiting on my other keg....

Today's test run went great. The PID and RTD I got from Aubrin's worked flawlessly. It heats up pretty quick when I light the burner under the MLT in addition to running the RIMS. When it got close to strike temps, I just off the burner and let the PID finish up. So far with just water it worked great.

Still have to get a sight-glass for the kegs installed.

 

[bakins]

I used a 3 prong GFI plug and then screwed the ground wire into the chassis.

Right, you stand is metal, makes sense. My stand is wood, so I'll probably tap a small hole for a ground screw somewhere on the RIMS tube.

 

[davebl]

So, I have received a few pm's and im's about this build. After re-reading over the thread, I guess I should update it.

First, this thing ROCKS. I get an easy 85% eff on ever batch, but I have gotten up to 92%. It works incredible... way beyond my expectations. I have had to, however, modify and change a few things.

First, up, the MLT and HLT. These are basically, just like the ones I sold. I built this rig with intent to upgrade to 20gallon batches. A few weeks ago, a buddy called and said he had 3, 30 gallon stainless tanks from an old Campbell's soup factory. Well, that didn't pan out, so I had to get NEW kegs, and modify.

Both have sight glasses, Miljoco therms, and a weldless bulkheads with tri-clamp attachments from WeldlessFittings.com

On the MLT, the return goes into a bulkhead near the top and my "sparge arm" is simply 4 feet of silicon 1/2" tubing. It works great, keeps the wort moving, no channeling. I put in a tri-clamp siphon tube from.. Sabco. I find it ironic, but its so nice to able to completely remove the false bottom for cleaning. The lid is a 32 qt aluminum lid from a restaurant supply store that fits perfect.

The HLT is pretty plain. 1/2" dip tube.... same weldless bulkhead, therm, and sight glass.

I also added a inline filter. This is plumbed into the base of the HEX and is setup so I can screw a hose to the back of the brew-rig, and then fill up my tanks. I also put a dump valves to drain the HEX after brewing.

 

[davebl]

The boil kettle side needed work too. First, I had to lower the burner.

Then, I had to get wort into my fermenters, so I just rigged this little thing up, and its quite a good solution, IMHO.

On the BK fill tube, I made small notches with a tube cutter, but not all the way through. These were made as I filled with measured water for calibrated fill lines. Now I know my exact preboil volumes.

And I just love this pic

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Looks good bro, at first glance it could pass for a brew magic. What's the final price tag and man hours on this bad boy?

 

[davebl]

Looks good bro, at first glance it could pass for a brew magic. What's the final price tag and man hours on this bad boy?

Thanks!

Price... I am going to say somewhere around $800 - $900 (bear in mind the steel frame was donated by a buddy). If I had to do another, I could do it cheaper.

Time... don't even know where to begin. The entire process was about 8 months of here and there, weekends, using, then modifying.

 

[brewfire]

davebl

nice build mate, just a quick note that the march pump has not got a bracket to help support the weight. With it only hanging on by the thread it will eventually fatigue the head and snap the thread off. (replacement heads are expensive here in Aus).

If my brewing equipment looked this good it would be awesome
Brewfire

 

[davebl]

davebl

nice build mate, just a quick note that the march pump has not got a bracket to help support the weight. With it only hanging on by the thread it will eventually fatigue the head and snap the thread off. (replacement heads are expensive here in Aus).

Not worried about that one bit.... March pumps are quite sound.

If my brewing equipment looked this good it would be awesome
Brewfire

Thanks!!!!

 

[Sawdustguy]

Thanks!

Price... I am going to say somewhere around $800 - $900 (bear in mind the steel frame was donated by a buddy). If I had to do another, I could do it cheaper.

Time... don't even know where to begin. The entire process was about 8 months of here and there, weekends, using, then modifying.

If that includes the Keggles that sounds awfully low.

 

[davebl]

If that includes the Keggles that sounds awfully low.

And it does . . . .

 

[Sawdustguy]

And it does . . . .

Good for you Dave. Mine cost alot more than that to build. The three keggles with the sanitary Tig welded couplings cost me $600 alone.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Good for you Dave. Mine cost alot more than that to build. The three keggles with the sanitary Tig welded couplings cost me $600 alone.

I'm guessing you didn't do your own welding? at least hoping

 

[Sawdustguy]

I'm guessing you didn't do your own welding? at least hoping

I am a rank amatuer at welding. Thank God for grinders! I have never tried TIG welding. I probably could have silver soldered it, as I have a torch, but decided to have a pro do it.

 

[limoges]

I love threads with so many picks of a nice rims builts! nice work. You have made me move to SS tubing.