My first Keggle build and I think I messed it up. Can you take a look at this please?

[lukadog]

I bought all the parts from Bargain fittings. I followed the directions on their website to a T, but it didn't turn out right. Don't know if it's because it's one of those fatty kegs or what, but I DO know that there is over a gallon of water left over in the bottom that won't drain. I'm sorry the pics are hard to see.

Can I bend the dip tube some how? I already tightened the compression fitting so I dont know about changing it to a side pickup. :/
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Oh, the dip tube is about an inch from the bottom. I has a mean angle to it!

 

[nvr2low]

is that how you drained it? looking at the photos your siphon is going to stop with it just dumping like that. i could be wrong but if you put a hose on that and set the keg up and inch or two it would probably pull the rest out.....

 

[lukadog]

is that how you drained it? looking at the photos your siphon is going to stop with it just dumping like that. i could be wrong but if you put a hose on that and set the keg up and inch or two it would probably pull the rest out.....

I tried draining it level and at an angle. When it was level it drew less because the tube angles upwards. What kind of hose would last during a boil? If that's what your referring to.

 

[Golddiggie]

Get the keggle higher up, attach a hose to the barb on the ball valve and have at least a few inches of hose (get it below the level of the keggle) and try again. Also put enough water in the keggle to get the level above the top of the ball valve body.

You could also get the pick-up closer to the center by removing the coupling. Simply put the NPT side of the compression fitting into the ball valve. Probably won't need the lock-nut there either.

Before you brew with it, though, test it under heat. Things could be fine while everything is ambient temp, but you could get leaks at boiling temps.

 

[Golddiggie]

I tried draining it level and at an angle. When it was level it drew less because the tube angles upwards. What kind of hose would last during a boil? If that's what your referring to.

Silicone... It's what most people use connected to kettle/keggles... If that's a 1/2" ball valve, get the 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD silicone tubing. It's not cheap, but worth every penny.

 

[bnmir]

It looks like it isnt reaching the bottom and its sticking in past the center. Any chance you could flip the dip tube around? The compression fitting can usually be reseated. Bending the stainless will be difficult by hand.

 

[lukadog]

It looks like it isnt reaching the bottom and its sticking in past the center. Any chance you could flip the dip tube around? The compression fitting can usually be reseated. Bending the stainless will be difficult by hand.

Thanks Golddiggie, and your right the dip tube is not even close to the bottom. It's a little over an inch off the bottom. I guess I could try flipping the tube around. Will the compression fitting still seat on the other side?

 

[lukadog]

You could also get the pick-up closer to the center by removing the coupling. Simply put the NPT side of the compression fitting into the ball valve. Probably won't need the lock-nut there either.

Would this allow the oring on the inside to seat properly?

 

[nvr2low]

Get the keggle higher up, attach a hose to the barb on the ball valve and have at least a few inches of hose (get it below the level of the keggle) and try again. Also put enough water in the keggle to get the level above the top of the ball valve body.

You could also get the pick-up closer to the center by removing the coupling. Simply put the NPT side of the compression fitting into the ball valve. Probably won't need the lock-nut there either.

Before you brew with it, though, test it under heat. Things could be fine while everything is ambient temp, but you could get leaks at boiling temps.

this!

 

[Huaco]

Could just leave it as-is and extend the bottom of your pickup tube with a SHORT piece of silicon tube. It has a HIGH temp rating... much higher than boiling water. Just make sure you are off the bottom by a small gap to allow siphon infill.

 

[JollyIsTheRoger]

Get the keggle higher up, attach a hose to the barb on the ball valve and have at least a few inches of hose (get it below the level of the keggle) and try again. Also put enough water in the keggle to get the level above the top of the ball valve body.

Exactly this. You need to have tubing hooked up the outside of the valve that hangs below the pick up point. Siphons only work with gravity. They don't go up unless they go back down more.

 

[lukadog]

Much thanks everyone! I was planing on breaking this in tomorrow. Looks like that's not going to happen.

 

[BargainFittings]

EDIT: Removing the coupling suggestion would work. You can use the locknut screwed down on the compression adapter and then use the valve on the outside to tighten it down.


Our pickup tubes are cut for standard straight sided kegs. The fat middle kegs obviously have a smaller diameter on the bottom.
You could bring the tube in by cutting it shorter. An inch off the bottom would not leave alot behind.

You should have received two o-rings with the pickup tube so if you need to cut the tube you would use the o-rings where the stainless ferules were to form the seal:

Pickup install instructions shows how to use the o-rings
http://www.bargainfittings.com/download/diptube.pdf

If you can't find the o-rings let me know.

You can brew with the system as it is. Try lifting it up higher like they suggested and you can test the draining with a regular piece of vinyl tubing. As long as you cool the wort first then transfer the vinyl tube will be ok. Just be sure to take it off while you boil.

 

[Golddiggie]

Thanks Golddiggie, and your right the dip tube is not even close to the bottom. It's a little over an inch off the bottom. I guess I could try flipping the tube around. Will the compression fitting still seat on the other side?

Once compression ferrules have been crimped into the tube, they're pretty much there for good. If you did that, you could just cut that section off, shortening the overall tube enough to get it closer to the middle of the bottom. A 1/2" gap isn't that much. Just figure out how much you actually leave behind after you do a proper drain test.

To replace the ferrule, you could just use a couple of 1/2" ID silicone o-rings in place.

As for the o-ring sealing, it depends on what the valve is setup with. At this point, it would probably be less of an issue if you were to just cut the dip tube and get it connected a bit shorter. 1/2" of water/liquid in the bottom of the keggle shouldn't amount to much. Once you've done the test, measure what's left. Or just add water (from measuring cups) until you just hit the bottom of the dip tube. Chances are, it's only a quart or two. Not too bad all things considered. :fro:

Listen to BargainFittings man...

 

[lukadog]

Wow y'all are awesome!!! Thanks so much for the replies and help! And Bargain Fitting? Fantastic customer service and to post on HBT is great. You will have my business forever! I'll be prdering some silicone tubing from you tonight!

 

[BargainFittings]

Here is a picture for those who need a visual. Thanks btw and glad I could help.

 

[lukadog]

Here is a picture for those who need a visual. Thanks btw and glad I could help.

Thank you mr bargain fittings that clears alot up. However, I cannot get any of the parts or NPT and all that to tighten down all the way like shown. It doesn't leak at ambient temp so hopefully if all goes well it will hold up under heat? I'm using the yellow gas pipe teflon with three wraps. is this normal? Even the ball valve wont completely seat as you can see in my pics. (all the extra space)

 

[BargainFittings]

Yellow tape is thick.

More than 2 wraps will make it bind faster.

The nut will go all the way down the thread. It is a NPS (straight thread) and all the slack will be taken by the nut and the wall of the keg.

 

[lukadog]

Yellow tape is thick.

More than 2 wraps will make it bind faster.

Then nut will go all the way down the thread. It is a NPS (straight thread) and all the slack will be taken by the nut and the wall of the keg.

Great thanks again. Can you send me a link for the hosing I need? I will purchase a good bit for my MLT and drain of etc. Thanks!
EDIT: Belay my last I found it on your site. 1/2" ID and 3/8" OD will work for my dip tube correct?

 

[BargainFittings]

Our 1/2" ID size HERE

Our 3/8" ID size HERE

 

[res291que]

Wish I had picks of mine I have exact same keggle, but built my own dip tube out of 1/2" copper it sits right in the middle about an 1/8" off bottom leave behind 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup. If you have a tubing bender or can run you dip tube to a welding/plumbing shop just bend it enough to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the bottom and you will be golden. Don't forget to have your outlet tubing lower than bottom of the keggle. Good luck ... Cheers.

 

[lukadog]

Wish I had picks of mine I have exact same keggle, but built my own dip tube out of 1/2" copper it sits right in the middle about an 1/8" off bottom leave behind 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup. If you have a tubing bender or can run you dip tube to a welding/plumbing shop just bend it enough to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the bottom and you will be golden. Don't forget to have your outlet tubing lower than bottom of the keggle. Good luck ... Cheers.

Thanks for the advice. Today I took all the excess parts out and put the fitting straight to the ball valve like others have suggested. Cleaned it up alot! The whole thing is tighter doesn't spin, feels all around better and the dip tube now is align with the middle of the keggle. I was thinking about using a pipe bender to get down some because it is still about an inch off the bottom, but I bought some silicone hose last night and I think that will solve my problem. Now to break my new keggle in I've been waiting on so long for tomorrow! Should be fun!