missing strike water temp every time by 5 degrees.

[miatawnt2b]

Is Beersmith compensating for Thermal Loss of Mash Tun?

Because if you're heating your mash water above strike temp and adding it all in, letting it sit until strike temp, then adding grain, your thermal loss should be zero.

I would think that would make your mash temps higher though as Beersmith would ask for higher temps to compensate for loss... hmmmm...

Maybe your thermometer isn't calibrated for mash temps? A Thermometer can be calibrated for boiling and freezing but still be off elsewhere.

I do not use the option in Beersmith to calculate for the temp of the equipment. The thermometer I have been using is a small Taylor analog dial... not exactly a piece of junk, and it is indeed calibrated and reads perfectly at both 32 and 212. I would assume that it would also be accurate throughout that range, but who knows.

-J

 

[saul]

Try ignoring beersmith.

Just investigate these questions:
How much heat your mash tun will sap from the strike water.
How much heat the grain will sap from the water before hitting the target.
How much water you use.
How hot that water is.

Always use the SAME amount of water per pound of grain. Only change the temperature.

 

[FSR402]

Try ignoring beersmith.

HOW DARE YOU SAY THAT!!!!! jk

 

[Nostrildamus]

I have failed to find this mentioned in the previous posts so I'll throw it in there for good measure even though I do not use Beersmith and speak ignorantly.

Beersmith may give you a field in which you can enter the temperature of the MLT but does it give you a field in which you can enter the dimensions, type and thermal efficiency? Does it take into account your altitude above sea level? It seems to make sense to me that a plastic bucket, stainless steel keg, aluminum pot, round 5 gallon cooler and square 10 gallon cooler would all require different amounts of energy to preheat and would all lose heat at differing rates at different altitudes so why would a one value fits all field be considered suitable for highly accurate strike temperature calculations?

Remember, brewing software is just a tool and is only as reliable as the information you give it and the information that it accepts. I think we all can get hung up on what should ideally happen according to our calculations and according to what happens when other people brew with their own systems. I myself never take software calcs as gospel but instead I have chosen to evaluate my brew system through experience. Keep a log, as it seems you may have, an adjust accordingly.

 

[WBC]

FSR said he puts 5 GALLONS @ 180 in there to preheat. That's like 25k BTU hours of waste. The point I'm making is that you're already looking to put hot water in there for strike, why not heat that water 10 degrees hotter and let it cool. That's a lot more efficient than heating twice the amount of water.

I know everyone is going to do what works for them, but I've had no problems preheating with my strike water.

+1 for Bobby........

I put water in the mash tun over the strike water temp and let it equalize and when it is at the stable strike temp I add the grains. Mix and wait 15 minutes and stir and take the temp and it should be spot on (mash temp).

 

[Soulive]

+1 for Bobby........

I put water in the mash tun over the strike water temp and let it equalize and when it is at the stable strike temp I add the grains. Mix and wait 15 minutes and stir and take the temp and it should be spot on (mash temp).

+2, I did the same thing on Saturday and it worked well. No reason to waste that water/gas when you don't have to...

 

[FlyingHorse]

I know everyone is going to do what works for them, but I've had no problems preheating with my strike water.

Likewise. ProMash will take into account the heat capacity and temp of your mash tun and give you an adjusted strike water temp (ie how hot does the water need to be to preheat the tun and get the mash to the target temp).

Takes a little trial and error to dial in the heat capacity, but after that it works like a charm.

 

[wizardofza]

I add 5 gallons of water to my MLT at 180* and I leave it in there until my strike water is up to temp (15 minutes or so) this puts my MLT at about 100* give or take depending on what it started at). Then I drain, add the strike water then grains and mix. and I hit my temps right on the last 4 or 5 brews doing it this way.

I do the exact same thing, and I'm dead on every time.

 

[Brewsmith]

Try ignoring beersmith.

Ignore Beersmith, not Brewsmith.

I use promash to calculate my mash temps, but I also fudge the numbers all over the place. I estimate my grain temp at least 5 degrees below ambient temp, I preheat my mash tun with seperate water and then pour it out before adding strike water that is about 2 degrees over, and I usually add about one half to a whole quart of water extra. Seems to come out just right.