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Mini-Mini Keg and Keg Pump

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5) Cut an approximately 1-1/2" length of 1/2" ID Vynil tubing
6) Insert the 1/2" compression bell into 1/2" section
7) Slide the 1/2" compression nut over the 3/8" tubing out of the way.
8) Slide in the 3/8" OD Vynil tubing into the 1/2" tubing up to the back side of the bell

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9) Slide the Compression nut over the 1/2" tubing

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10) While making sure all pieces are tight to one another tighten down the 1/2" nut.
 
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Now line up the bottom of the top of the nipple with the top of the Keg and measure the length of pipe you need to reach the bottom. Remember to cut a little LONGER than you think you need if you are in doubt. Easier to cut some more off than to redo the whole thing.

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There you go the almost complete keg pump.

Just screw in the pump and your ready to go.

Just push the pipe and nipple through the Rubber bung (the plastic center will fall into the keg). Couldn't be simpler.

 
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I am partially wrong.. Dont have to buy the Bung on ALL 5L Cans. :mug:

Went to Total Beer and Wine and found this:

WP_000084.jpg


BTW BitBurger is a really tasty Light lager. Also, NOT ALL of the 5L kegs have the bung you have to pry off after your finished with the Beer. Like the Warstiener in the video above. Some

Should note that BOTH Bitburger in the silver can and their Köstritzer Schwarzbier (In the black) had the rubber bungs.

The Spaten, Warstiener, Grolsch and Beck ones have the top piece you have to remove as per the Youtube clip. Although pictures on line vary somewhat. So just check when you go to the store.

I will recommend when inserting the pump into a production beer.. cover with a towel.. its sprays a bit on you.. :) But that said the pump does work on production kegs too.. :)

That said.. looks like I am buying more Bitburger lager.

It was $22 a 5L, Cans at Midwest are $15, bung is $2, and add shipping.. $24.63 (Checked it out on thier site) so it was like the best beer ever.. FREE ! Beats the heck out of buying BMC for thier AL cans or something like that.

They did have something even cooler, to go with all this:

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5L Coozies :)
 
****in right on bro much appreciated
trim.jpg


Now line up the bottom of the top of the nipple with the top of the Keg and measure the length of pipe you need to reach the bottom. Remember to cut a little LONGER than you think you need if you are in doubt. Easier to cut some more off than to redo the whole thing.

fin.jpg


There you go the almost complete keg pump.

Just screw in the pump and your ready to go.

Just push the pipe and nipple through the Rubber bung (the plastic center will fall into the keg). Couldn't be simpler.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8P1r49h7RMU
 
You may want to watch out using copper. In someother threads, there was a fairly lengthy discussion on stuffed being leached out due to the acidic nature of beer. I will try to find it and post the link.

Granted, if it's going to be a single sitting type dispenser, I imagine it would be fine
 
Exactly.. the longest it will sit in one 5L is a few days tops.

Also the only "fittings" touching the beer is the copper pipe. Everything else is only in contact with the air. If the copper line deteriorates, its easily replaced.

If I do detect "metal" flavors.. I could nip the copper up high and run a vynil tube into the beer.. but then punching out the plug would be a little more difficult.

>>>>>>>

Also 5L is roughly 21 (8oz beers) to 10 (16oz Pints)

I think I was in the 15 beer range with my 333ML Glasses.

So if you have this in the Beer fridge in a new 5L you just tapped.. your looking at the most 7 days... if your a "responsible drinker" and only have 2 a day.. (BTW WHO does that.. ?!?!). If your like me 1-3 days tops or a weekend with no one helping. If you bring it to a party it could be killed in an hour or less.

Personally I will be bottling 2 of these each 5Gal (20L) Batch I do, then (6) 1L flip caps, and (2) Six packs (just in case its good enough for competition). Should cut bottling time down to nothing.

As for CO2 vs Hand pump..

IF you are serving from this.. then the CO2 is overkill in my opinion. It would take a long time to de-carb the beer. Remember, even though its air and not CO2 its still under pressure.. holding the CO2 in the Beer. The only issue would be off flavors from possible oxidation. Again the chances of that hurting the beer in a cold environment under press for no more than a few days.. would be unnoticeable.

The setup isn't for storage its for serving.. I am willing to bet any off flavors found will not be from the can and pump, but be there since brewing.

Now if you want to force carb... That's possible with this design.. BUT not sure the bung would hold up.. The first design with the 2L Growler would be a much better design for force carbing.

Also since I haven't force carbed.. I maybe wrong.. but isn't it best to force carb from the bottom through the beer.. ? And not from the top surface of the beer? OR does it matter?

I ask because.. well.. I could make another one designed with force carbing in mind.
 
How would you feel about modifying the outgoing tubing to attach to a keg for filling without splatter, as one would do a growler? It would be a sort of way to bring your Kegged brews to a party without actually bringing your keg, but still keeping the kegged look an feel.

I realize a growler already fulfills this purpose well, I'm just asking hypothetically.
 
Why not just fill the empty can at the top opening, and then put the bung in and insert the pump.

Wouldn't need to go through the pump.
 
Why not just fill the empty can at the top opening, and then put the bung in and insert the pump.

Wouldn't need to go through the pump.

Well that sure does sound like a lot less work.:mug: Like I said in the previous post it would just be a way to avoid any unnecessary splatter, but I guess if you use a vinyl tube to fill your growlers anyway it wouldn't be much of a difference. Plus it would probably be easier to see how full it is.
 
sweet i'll be doing this setup to my mini kegs to force carb and be able to add a 3rd tap to my other wise sanyo mini/kegerator that is normally limited to 2 corny kegs.

As for making my mini kegs easily transferable I take the plastic tops off the new castle and Heineken mini kegs and put them on my mini kegs. here's a pic.

IMG_20130402_195257.jpg
 
How did you deal with the raw edge when you took off the top ?

Also on the New Castle and Heineken kegs, there is a CO2 charge inside made of plastic.. that's not in the regular ones.. it takes up space and could get loose and not to mention have crevasses so its harder to clean (See the video) .
 
How did you deal with the raw edge when you took off the top ?

Also on the New Castle and Heineken kegs, there is a CO2 charge inside made of plastic.. that's not in the regular ones.. it takes up space and could get loose and not to mention have crevasses so its harder to clean (See the video) .

the picture of the keg I posted is actually the ones from midwest.com http://www.midwestsupplies.com/mini-keg.html. All I did was with a lil MAN power pulled the plastic handle that presses on to the top of the heineken and new castle mini kegs and then pressed it on to one of the midwest mini kegs. It's actually a perfect fit and makes caring it much easier. Below is a pick of an extra green plastic piece that I pulled from another heineken mini keg to be installed on another midwest mini keg

IMG_20130402_224730.jpg
 
Well that sure does sound like a lot less work.:mug: Like I said in the previous post it would just be a way to avoid any unnecessary splatter, but I guess if you use a vinyl tube to fill your growlers anyway it wouldn't be much of a difference. Plus it would probably be easier to see how full it is.

The getting it full part definitely :)
 
OH.. missed that.. Thats Friggin awesome.. Can I get a few from you :)
pm me your address and the next time i get a couple of mini kegs of heineken/ new castle to get use out of my beer tender i'll send the plastic handle parts your way.
 
Enjoy if any of that is of interest, if not..oh well :)

Actually my first version for the 2L SS Growler was inspired by the Northwest article. The 5L as well.. But unlike ALL the other versions.. they all seem to run on CO2.

Mine is meant for carrying around to picnics and such, thus the hand pump design :) Also unlike the NW version, you don't need to drill anything.

That all said.. I like your design.. good use of the plastic bits.. I can see how if I flipped it up like mine you could convert it to a hand pump version for parties without the copper and such. Only question is how do you pop the center without making a mess..? The nice thing I liked about having the copper tube is that I use it to pop the plug in.

If I make another one, I may try a combo of the two designs to have it all plastic from the Tee down to the beer.
 
Frickin' nice I've been looking all over for a beertender conversion like this for months and no luck. Thank you a ton.
If you are using a beertender, this may interest you: http://www.instructables.com/id/Krups-Beerteender-Conversion/

This is a lower profile tap I made: http://www.instructables.com/id/5L-Mini-Keg-Tap/

And here is a thread with some other 5L mini-keg resources: http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=61167

Enjoy if any of that is of interest, if not..oh well :)
 
Frickin' nice I've been looking all over for a beertender conversion like this for months and no luck. Thank you a ton.

I was thinking if I had a beertender, and a Street Elbow and a few fittings I think you could put the chrome hand pump on the side :)
 
...Only question is how do you pop the center without making a mess..?

I have been a carpenter, tinker and a props builder for about 15 years, so I have a fairly steady drill hand...so I was just very careful.

I kinda dig running it off CO2, I just use a 20oz paintball tank and its pretty cheap. Also, I can toss the tank on my cooler and serve the keg that way.

But then again, the rate at which I drink is fairly slow. My wife doesn't drink that much beer, so I can make a 5L last about 3 weeks which is why I went with gas.

Al thought a beer tender with a hand pump could look pretty great.
 
I meant when you push the white plug in on a full can..? That said you were using Splaten and those dont have the Gray bungs. So not sure how that works on a live keg.

The Gray bungs thou are what you have to use when doing home brew in the kegs. Probably could just push it in with a screw driver then sit in the feed tube.
 
Oh, I am sorry wasn't quiet sure what you were asking.

Yeah, I will cut the old bung out and use a reusable one and then refill the mini keg with my own home brew.
 
So you use the kegs after the beer is conditioned and transfer to the keg..? or Condition in the keg..?

I'm conditioning in the keg.. which is where it can get messy popping the white plastic piece of the bung in.
 
CDGoin said:
Did the "cheaper" model using the 5L cans and plastic pump..

Fairly cheap to reproduce.. will have to break it down and show the design and give a Bill of Materials if anyone is interested.

Where did you buy the plastic pump?
 
I condition in the keg, since there is a whole lot less to clean when it comes to bottling. Someone made the suggestion to use about half the priming sugar and leave around an inch of head space.

I have read about people force carbing with these little ones, but I haven't tired that yet.

Also, I will use the 3 part bung, pictured on left since you can vent the beer, then pull off the top red piece and then push the red plug in. On my current batch I tried out on the grey bungs to see if they are easier to pull out once the keg is empty. The 3-part bung takes a good bit of effort (and my pillars to pull it out). I wonder if you turned the keg upside down and tried to vent with the pull out faucet prior to tapping if that would help relive pressure or just make a bigger mess.

Someone also removed the pullout faucet and learned the hole for it is the same size as the one on top. I have toyed with the idea removing it and replacing it with a three part just to make cleaning and drying easier.

I got the orange bung with my edge star keg conversion kit (what I converted my beer tender with) and they are great with the commercial kegs that don't have tapable bungs since the 'barbed' part is way less pronounced so getting it out is super easy. So I will remove the factory bung (I have heard some use the three part one pictured, but I haven't found any yet) and stick the orange one in, and holds pressure very well.

I know someone mentioned the Heineken/New Castle Keg earlier in the thread, and this may be of interest: http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90461. I am thinking of trying to modify a bung like he did, but with a pressure relief valve as opposed to a Presta valve. I looked into this prior to what I did and thought about doing it, however I want with the bulkier setup since if left me with more options. But for picnics and travel, I think his system nails it.

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Nope Beer Balls went the way of the dodo a while ago.

Thanks for the lesson on the Bungs.. I hadn't even considered it and didn't know the Spaten bungs were reusable like that. So that's great to know.

Good call on venting it first.. not sure why I hadn't thought of turning the keg upside down first and using the spigot to vent before pushing in the bung plug.

I am also surprised no one ever thought to post this to the thread with everyone talking about bungs.. :)

 
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